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ok, I am pretty sure I can find one cause if I remember correctly 3/4 tons are most likely to have a sterling
Ah you will need my 8 lug 44 parts.
what part of the axle did you break/ if it was shafts, then by chromo shafts, one ton axles are to big and heavy, then you'll be dumb and wanna swap 60 **** down the road. i say just spend a little money on the nine inch.
also maybe you should correlate most breakage on your truck from doing things on the street not off-road.
spend the $300 to upgrade to 35spline and get a full spool and you've pretty much got a one-ton setup with more ground clearance and less weight
if you broke the carrier then you might as well step up to a full locker or spool. While your at it upgrade the shafts
i put the traclock in my last spare 3rd. if it goes then i'll either build up a different 9 inch housing and all, or swap in a different axle.
antiwrap bar coming right up
...
nice, but on a rear trac bar shouldn't the shackle be pointing up (with the hiem end of the bar on the top side) for it to work the best?
yes i believe so, but he didnt want to make a new cross member, so he did it that way.
i don't see why it makes a difference
Mine mounts the same way. If you flip it over, your either going to increase the angle or have to make a longer bar to keep it from being steep. Its just like any other link suspension where you want it to be as parallel as possible, usually running parallel to your dshaft.
with the shackle that direction, if you are flexed out and apply torque to it, there is the possibility of inverting the shackle. this would result in the springs remaining ess shaped with no throttle applied.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
parallel to the d-shaft means squat. the d-shaft does not dictate axle movement in any way, if it does, something is wrong. you are more concerned about instant center and keeping the anti-wrap/ladder bar in line with it.
The wrap bar transmits torque. If you have some short bar that is setup steep, that would be like running a 4 link with the same type of links. That was my point...therefore it does mean squat. It also protects the dshaft like that. Being parallel to the dshaft is just a rule of thumb way of looking at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
I run the same shackle on mine and unless he is getting 6 feet of travel, that won't be a problem. The shackle may move a inch or two at most. Never gets near horizontal and it has been in a bind plenty of times.
the only problem with it being that way is that your shackle is under compression, which is not the way that particular shackle was designed. I would make a new shackle for it at the very least, and brace the sides of the axle-end brackets (right david?) And if you have a choice the antiwrap bar should go on the passenger side to counteract driveline torque, and a short steep traction bar will make your suspension unload (antisquat) because your axle's torque is fighting the chassis. Longer and flatter is best because it gives your chassis more leverage against the axlewrap.
And that's all I know about antiwrap bars
and no, 3 kinked-ass sets of rear leaf springs later I still haven't made one
eh, if it breaks i'll make a new one thats different
Mine is going on 4+ years, yours should last.
Well it seems to go with the theme here, because the shackles in his rear suspension are wrong as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
It cancelles itself out then, if the leaf spring shackels are wrong and the other shackle is wrong, then it should work.
got bucket seats, console, and new alternator in
are those the buckets that i gave you? just wondering
yea
look good glad they found a good home, now to get rid of the shady leather seats from the waggy i just brought home
got spare 9" carrier welded
Don't feel so bad about my welds when I see that...
i was pretty drunk when i welded that. had plenty of welding fluid. aka lonestar
so your pretty drunk welds = my completely sober welds... i'll take that
Oh no, the only thing my welds compare to is squirrel diarrhea, still getting the hang of mig welding and i'm sure you could teach me a thing or two
nice comparison
:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
Garrett that's a lot of sh!t to talk for someone who can't figure out how to work a mig welder
Hey mother****er, it was the damn wiring for the house I couldnt figure out. The welder, now I can make that work, but just barely.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
:flipoff2:
you know there is a chart on the inside of the lid that shows you how set it up
***, there is?!?!? :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Yea, it's more of a technique thing. I'll post some pictures here this week and we can diagnose my welding problems and let Cook have his thread back
One knob gives you more or less wire, the other gives you more or less heat, the trigger makes it go. Plug it in, lower your helmet, and burn wire. Repeat until you don't suck.
dont getto pissy with the welder talk yet he still hasnt been able to successfully make studs go into the ground for a bender :laughing: :flipoff2:
**** em, I'm done with the *****. I figured out it was just too much torque on the sleeves. I welded on a piece of angle 13" long, and didn't even need to bolt it in and it made all the difference in the world. For permanent mounting, studs are deffinitely the way to go, not the bull**** sleeves like I used.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
found this pleasent surprise the night before. replaced driver side 9" shaft.
so you're ready to go? Kickass!
Twisted the splines....too many burnouts on the street.