How do I load it?
Basically just use the clamp to press the torsion bar off the crossmember?
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How do I load it?
Basically just use the clamp to press the torsion bar off the crossmember?
Sadly tumtum is right, get a bj press and a good impact, other then that it's an easy fix.
awesome.
I feel like every problem mentioned recently has to do with chevy trucks...
Yeah, obama motors owners, Just wait until your pitman arm and idler arm wear out . The idler arm bracket likes to **** up. If you buy Moog parts your bill will be over $400
I got it fixed today and even played around with the adjusting screws a bit and brought the front end of the truck down 3/4". I had to use a ball joint press on the driver side and a 7 ton 2-jaw puller on the pass. side to hold the torsion arms in place while I messed with them.
Here is a pic of the broken piece versus the new one. The parts guys told me that GM did a total re-design but he didn't know why. I looked at him funny and said "This is why" and showed him the broken piece. I guess this is more common than I thought.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03501.jpg
I should look and see which one my truck has
Joined the diesel fag club.
2000 f250 w/ 7.3 and auto
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...312_174642.jpg
Rice!!!!!!
I'm broke down with my dodge waiting on a wrecker right now. I was hauling a load back to the plant and started loosing power. I still had power in the first half of throttle but if pushed further rpms drop. I ran that way for a few miles and then made a turn. Only made it a few hundred yards before it died on my. Either my turbo went out or my exhaust is clogged up. Either way I had to drop the load and have someone else grab it while I sit here for the tow truck to pick it Up. I have no time for this right now. They better give me a loaner or I'll be stuck driving my very tired '01 chevy 2500hd yard truck.
Still under warranty?
No black smoke? Probably not the turbo if not. May be a clogged fuel filter or air filter if you have power in the lower RPMs.
I would bet a clogged fuel filter. I know on the chevy the computer will go into limp mode if the fuel filter is clogged because the fuel rail pressure will drop too much. code is something along the lines of low fuel rail pressure or fuel rail pressure not what expected
All filters replaced 1700 miles ago. Although I looked at fuel filter and it was dirty as hell. I'll grab a new one in the morning. Also my fuel sending unit is out so it might be out of fuel also.
All filters replaced 1700 miles ago. Although I looked at fuel filter and it was dirty as hell. I'll grab a new one in the morning. Also my fuel sending unit is out so it might be out of fuel also. So dodg
You just need 1 bad tank to plug it. I had one get plugged on the way to Clayton this year, only had about 3000 miles on it. Usually change them every 50k or so.
My buddy got some bad fuel while we were headed back to huntsville, ruined a filter he had changed that weekend
additional maintenance costs;) 14 years/350k, never got a bad tank of gasoline:flipoff2:
Anybody have the dp tuner? If so what tunes do you have on it and how do you like it? I'm thinking cat delete and an intake with the tuner and that's it.
I change it every service. 10k. All my fuel is bought by the truckload. 5 th tank on this filter. No other filters clogged yet from this last load. Guess bad luck. Can't get a new sending unit until Friday so guess if it starts in the morning I'll be fueling daily to make sure I don't run out
Sparling, the DP is an awesome tuner, I run the TS chip and if I was smart when I bought it I would have sent it off to Tony Wildman to have him put his tunes on it. In out of the box form the DP is a lot better, but there are a ton of guys out there with awesome tunes for the TS.
Also for exhaust, look on eBay for kits. I got my 4" turbo back kit that was ready to bolt in for $250.
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What about intakes? I read s&b was a solid one, and not to use k&n.
Just get a dry filter that replaces the top part of the intake
Something like this, doesn't really matter which brand
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Performan..._pn=EVE400-122
Also if your current exhaust is in decent condition I would just remove the cat and muffler and call it good. The 7.3 is not much louder straight piped (the under hood clanking will still be louder than the exhaust noise)
Kopecki just puts whatever cheap tuner is laying around on old 7.3s. These trucks have been around a while, somebody you know has a tuner sitting in their closet. I saw summit or jegs had superchip on sale for pretty much anything for $150 a month or so ago. Remove the cat if it has one, didn't think 2000 did. Stock muffler and filter. This will make it have good power for towing up to 20000 lbs, if you're going over that go slow.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...315_143226.jpg
Napa 6637 filter
I never liked those, look like **** just laying on the fender and always seemed to get dirty way faster.
I want to buy a prefilter and make a box out of aluminum but this will work until after the tuner and exhaust.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...315_170007.jpg
Seems to have made a noticeable difference over the old stock setup. It's louder but it was already loud and I heard my wastegate for the first time so I know the Turbo is spooling up faster.
Put wicked wheel in the turbo, will get rid of the flutter.
Just ****ng drive it
That same logic could be applied to any of our vehicles. And yet, here we are.
Just got my adapter kit in to run CAT fuel filters on the Duramax. Woo. Gonna throw a Air Dog II on it later this year sometime. The thought of having to do injectors frightens me.
Also sending some oil off to be tested this week just for ****s and giggles. Hopefully nothing bad pops up.
Figured th