Dodge (cummins) tow rig talk

So now that i'm graduated....well sorta....by friday I will be, took my corrospondence exam today, as soon as get a job i'm going to get a new truck.

So I have decided on a 96-98 (or just one that is fairly new with around 60,000 miles on it) Dodge 2500 or 3500 with the cummins and a 5 speed.

So I need advice on some things...

Single wheel or dually??
I know that advantages of both...i'll probably end up with a single wheel cause of less wheels and easier to park. the benefits would probably out weigh handling a heavy load a couple times a year.

4X4 or 2??
Again, i know the advantages and disadvantages. Just wondering if worrying about all the extra parts and weight are worth it....I think i'd like the 4x4 if i ever go hunting, etc...

What years are good and bad???
I know all vehicles have years that are better than or worse, which are they???

What should I look for???
I know how diesels work etc... but have never owned one. What should i look for when buying?? Any leaks, rust, etc...???

General things I should know about the trucks??
Are they prone to any kind of wear that I should look for other than usual???


Help me out here guys...I never thought i would by a dodge, but for what i can afford they kick ass, hell even if i could by a new one i would still get a dodge. I know a ****load of ya'll have these...Ryan Kopecki, busa, higgs, Scott, etc.. Help me out here guys.. thanks.

Oh and as soon as I find a job i'll most likely be living in Tarkington near Cleveland at our property/ranch thingy. Has a small living space and our barn is decent size for a shop once I arrange trailers, truck, tractor and implements. It would be lonely, but i figure i'll get satellite broadband, and adopt a dog. That way I can just drive to work, and work on my buggy at night and on free weekends

Seems you're looking for a 12 valve. My favorite one is the 98 with the quad doors and new interior but still the old motor. Duals aren't necessary. Unless you've got the blazer and a buggy on a trailer I wouldn't even call it a heavy load. 4x4 isn't needed either. I don't know much about those motors. I think you just change the filters and adjust the rockers and not worry about anything else. But for moding them, an extra 60hp is free. Every dodge 4x4 I've checked has a worn out track bar. And most diesels leak a little too. There are rumors of dana 60 rears although I've never seen one in them, might want to watch out for that (not good). It's probably just somethin made up by the ford guys.

just a few things i've learned, the 12 valve ones are very easy to turn up, and tend to have less problems w/ fuel delivery, i

personally like 2wd tow rigs because of the better ride and less weight, less drag on the drivetrain, those are just opions though

having towed w/ dual and single rear wheels, dually is just better, better stance, and the parking thing isn't much worse

things to look for, make sure they have good records on maintence, oil changes in those diesels are a must, just because of the soot they produce, but other than that, just look for leaks anywhere, nothing that i know of off hand

get one with a turbo for the love of god.

But i am sure ryan needs to push his love for the ford non turbo 7.3l btw the just put on a glasspack so it pretty much a straight pipe and soon i am gonna take it in to get the injector pump timed. it should be a screaming beast

mike i love how you talk to me on this, it cracks me up

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Originally posted by fbronco86

But i am sure ryan needs to push his love for the ford non turbo 7.3l

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Nope, when you're a ritch non college student, you can move up to a cummins. And since me and you (Doug) are backwards on this, maybe you could buy mine. So its got an auto, its lasting longer that Scott's clutch did.

you want too much...plus i want an manual....thanks for the tip on the 98...i think i'll try to get one....i think i want extended cab....lot more room

also, i'm leaning more for a 2500 with 4x4....IF i get a job i can afford it and i think i'd like to have it in a couple situations.

Looked in auto trader...seems the price will vary alot with miles...found anywhere from 11,500 to about 16,500. Actually cheaper than I thought!

The single best test, assuming that all the other details fall into place, is when you find a truck, start it, sit in it, and just listen for about 15 min. You know what a good motor sounds like, and you've heard plenty of healthy, good running diesels. It's the most subjective test, but take this example: the way Doug's powerstroke sounded for a time while on dexter is not the way a healthy direct injection diesel should sound. To be fair, he took it to the dealer, and all was well afterwards.

Good luck on the J-O-B and finding the truck.

Does a Cummins need SCA?

What that? That what you call the coolant additive?

Si, senor.

Thanks for the input so far guys, and i'll probably need all the luck i can get for the job. I can't believe scott hasn't chimed in on this yet, or maybe he's fixing his clutch???

i wouldn't buy a 98 or pre 99 dodge diesal because the injector pump went out on them because of the lift pump which didn't give it enough pressure. my old white truck and jasons both had that problem.

Yep, check the fuel pressure often, most install a guage after theirs goes out and kills the pump. I just check mine when I change the oil. Might want to take it and have the pressure checked before you buy one to see if they've been running with a bad lift pump which could damage the injector pump.

So the lift pump is a pump that delivers the fuel to the injector pump??? This is what i'm assuming. Also, i'm guessing the injector pump costs alot more than the lift pump? How much does each cost?

Lift pump is just the cummins term for the fuel pump that delivers diesel to the injection pump. It costs about $300 from dodge or $120 from cummins. Some people replace them with aftermarket pumps like the holley or aeromotive pumps that cost $100-150. Just needs about 14psi and 100+ gph. I think injector pump is something like $1700. It doesn't go out on its own, just if its ran with a bad lift pump. And as far as I know, this is a 24v only problem.

doug you should get that truck the mexicans had down the street from us. that thing was sweet maybe you can buy it from them. haha to me it seems like all the diesel trucks have some kinda problem with them. so yup i am undecided on what truck i would get if i was gonna get a new one.

DON'T GET 4X4!!! More stuff to break and you will take it off-road, not matter how many times you say you won't. I'm assumming you won't put a gooseneck hitch on your buggy, so don't expect to tow your tow rig home. Leave the off road stuff to your off road vehicle. I am certain my f250 handles a lot better than a f250 with a solid front axle, especially if i took the latter off road and bent the tie rod. Oh well, just my $.02

I see that you have these choices when buying a new truck

Ford = First On Race Day
Chevy = Cruddy Hick Engine Very Yucky
Dodge = Digs Own Damn Grave Eventually

Well it looks like the non turbo ford wins again yippee

You only need to worry about the lift pump and injection pump on the 24 valves. Dodge used the 12 valves up through 98.5. This is the truck I would buy if I was gonna do it over again. The 12 valve motors are all mechanical and can be turned up or fixed very easily and cheaply. All the electrics on the 24 valve motors make it slightly more complicated, thus more prone to stupid failures. If you buy a 24 valve just put in a good mechanical fuel pressure gauge and keep an eye on it.

Doug, I don't care what people tell you, buy a 4x4. Being an avid off-roader and outdoorsman, there will be times when 4x4 is a lifesaver. Just don't take it rockcrawling and you will be fine.

One other thing to look for is the casting # on the block. A lot of guys are having problems with motors that start with "53" as the first two digits. It is not a huge problem but there have been motors where part of the block was thinner than what it should have been and caused a blow out. Not all 53 motors have this problem. I think they might have produced a small number with this problem and then it was corrected.

Also another good place for information is the Turbo Diesel Register. Join up and check out their forums, more info and help than you ever wanted.

If I think of anything I will post it.

Another thing about the 12 valve motors, Since you are buying used, if you decided to add a little extra horsepower it is a good idea to swap out the valve springs for some heavy duty aftermarket valve springs. If I remember right, these are fairly inexpensive and will save you from a lot of headaches.

You guys cry that I get a stroke and that there are so many problems with it....

Look what is coming out of the woodwork....

All trucks have problems. It is the luck of the draw.

I think anything in this world is going to have problems....

I chose the cummins because I have seen what they have done in this club and else where, engines are tuned easliy and effectively, and it is what I can afford when I get a job!

Thanks burbach, I'm probably going to get a 4x4, i know how to fix all the **** on them now, and I think i'll be glad i got it in a few situations. Sorry rex, I'll try my best to resist temptation!!!

Also, I thought Cody said the injector pump went out on his old truck and jasons truck??? Those are 12 valves!?

Have ya'll ever heard of the KDP(Killer dowl pin)??? People say they have these problems. Personal experience??

I've heard of it. I think its more of a problem with the older trucks and was fixed sometime around 96. I know no 98+ trucks have that problem. And I think it's only caused by lots of extra power. Maybe someone else knows more.

And try to get one with 3.55 gears if you'll have 35" or smaller tires. Mine has most power from about 1700 to 2800 rpm. I think 12 valve are more like 1500 to 2600 rpm. Cummins says peak torque at 1400 rpm.

both of our trucks were 24 valve