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The Duke
here are some pics as of today before and after the new tires were put on
as was:
81 cj5, hei, 4.0 head, magnaflow exhaust, mc2100, yellow top optima, 8k lb winch on a reciever wired front and rear, tj flares, shackle reversal, 3.5" lift, 33" AT's on 15" rock crusher rims, cd, cb, pa, pro comp seats, hurculiner on inside of tub, tuffy boxes (console, glove and fender well), modified tube bumpers, 4:10 gears in both axles with a detroit in the rear, 4:1 in the d300
plans:
37" mtr's
flat skid plate
cv rear driveshaft
2" body lift to clear clocked t-case and tires
tbi from an 89 s10
oba
new front bumper
mount warn 9k on new front bumper
mount 5k warn in rear
2" wheel spacers in rear
narrowed waggy 44 front with ford rotors
full roll cage tied to frame
led tail lights
maybe add waggy springs to get a little wb later
i have almost all of the parts to do this so now it is time to get wrentching
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Looks nice. Are those pics with the d44 rear? 37"s look good on it.
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anyone still in town wana help me with the body lift tomorrow?
and yes those are with my nt axles on it d44 rear d30 front, i just finished ordering my wheel adapters/spacers for the rear so that it will stick out a little more and look better. it would have looked fine if i didnt' have tj flares
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body lift
had a 3" sitting around so i put it on to clear the clocked t-case and so the tires can flex a little
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In the pictures it looks like the rear axle needs to go back an inch or so. Look like that in real life?
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stock cj5 axle w/ flares at an angle will look that way
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i also cut the body when i installed the flares so that the tires would stuff up in them well and i could get away with less lift earlear in the buildup. when they stuff they fill the whole wheel well. the only downfall is that it looks like the axle is in the wrong place at normal stance
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here is the new tranny mount that i just made so that i can have a flat skid plate
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You crackum t-case adapter.
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first of all the mount bolts to the tranny and second i don't see why there won't be enough play to handle the torque. so what problem do you see
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Putting the bushings on the ends of the crossmember like that does not allow as much deflection as a normal tranny mount. I just remembered my jeep doesnt have a t-case adapter, so I assume yours doesnt either, so it makes sense that it would bolt dirrectly to the tranny. I still think you run the risk of cracking whatever its mounted too but only time will tell.
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that all depends on the stifness of that mount versus the stiffness of the engine mounts.
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i was going to make raised motor mounts this afternoon with a similar bushing. am i going to have problems. they are both polyurethane sp? and from spring eye applications
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Well I suppose if you got polly bushing motor mounts too you will probably be fine cause the motor mounts will be stiff as fawk and not allow much if any deflection, ask me how I know.
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Yea you may be ok with the stiff motor mounts. I tried stiffening up my transmission mount way back in the day and broke a chunk out of the transmission. Then welded it back together and built a new mount that bolted to the case, mounted it softer, and ran it another 3 years or so.
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rear winch mount
well i decided to save the motor mounts till tomorrow and tonight to make my rear winch mount. the only problem that i see is that i need a hawse so that i don't always bang it on departures so the roller will go back to the front and i will order a hawse from someone
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are you making your rounds all over town putting out old flames?
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you need a shovel to go with that axe.
fire axes have a pick or something on the other side.
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actually i am going to put on a fire ax and a shovel that are both red. i don't really know why but it seems to fit. maybe i should change the name from the Duke to something to do with fires or something. whatever
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Lookin' killer, I'm jealous you got 2 winches... The tailights will look awesome recessed like that, did you get led's or regular lights?
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harbor freight special led's
thanks for the complements
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be dressed fit to kill....
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got the warn 9000k winch installed today with the plate that i got from krebs. I also modified the hitch up front so that it will still work and isn't in the way of the fairlead. I still need to make some sort of bumper/stinger thing but that will have to wait untill i get a chance to finish the roll cage and see how much tube that i have left.
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t-case installed
got the t-case installed with the help from a bfh. now time to fit/make driveshafts so i can get the city off of my back
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random ice pic
got the tail lights, t-case, front driveshaft and the parts in to fix the steering and convert to hydraulic clutch. tomorrow is going to be productive
to do:
lengthen steering shaft
bend twin sticks so they fit with clocked t-case
install/make work hydro clutch parts
modify exhaust to fit with flat skid
cut and reweld e-brake bracket
call city, drive around block with middle finger out the window
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that ice looked like fun, make sure to be careful with the plastic windows when they are that cold they like to crack easily
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well i drove it around the block today, granted i started it in gear and continued in front low in first but it still drove. now the city will be off my back and i can take my time
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damn you work fast. . . i was just about to send you this link. . . http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=792900
but it looks like "oldarmy" beat you to it. HA HA i knew you would be interested in that steering shaft and taurus fan.
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i am oldarmy2007 on ju and pirate
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i have completed the motor mount lift as well as buttoned up the tranny mount. i also made my tbi harness and adapter plate and modified the t-case shifters along with the hydro clutch install and yj brake upgrade. now to mount the fuel pump and see if it fires up. i will get that done saturday. i may even be able to start driving it again. with that said i am now cursed and am going to get back to studying for my stat test
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updates
well i got sick of those damn carbs so i had to go ahead with the tbi that i had talked about for years so now it is in. made my own adapter plate and harness. i also finished my sliders/steps. now just to decide weather to leave the d30 or shorten and swap in the d44 in my garage
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so here is the question... does the jeep still look good with 33" swamper tsl's and will my jeep's offroad abilities really be hampered as compared to 35's or so? i had 37" mtr's but those hit to much even after 3 more inches lift and i wasn't going to trim the body anymore... so i thought 35's but this way i can flex alot more and not worry about my d30 grenading on me, i could probably even lock it.
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also the cj will become a daily driver as of the end of the summer so that also make me choose smaller tires.
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44, 35s and lockahs. Otherwise you're just postponing the inevitable
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i have a detroit in the rear right now with 4:10's so i could go iether way, so that helps a lot and i'm also building a cj7 that will be prety built up for the trails (360, granny t-18, d20 w/ 3.15 terra low range, d44 & 14-bolt welded w/ 4.10, 38.5's, lots of trimming and stretching)
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i would say look for some 35's but that is just me.
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how does the tbi run? Is that air filter permanent?
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the 2 chips that i have for the tbi are not correct. one is rich(default mode) and one is lean so i need to send back the one that i had made and get a good one. even with those 2 problems it still runs better than any carb i ever had. and no that air filter/intake is not permanent, the clearance between the brake booster/mc(from a yj) and the tb is to close for anything that i could find on the market so i made one from ac tin for a house. as soon as i find a sutable replacement it will go on. bit on the bright side that K&N that i wrote on with a sharpe adds at least 10 HP and i still have a K&N filter on the end
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i'll post a better picture tomorrow so that the *****ing and flaming can go as scheduled