Warn ti winch controler

I am working on a semi-hardwire for the winch on the beast. It has 6 (six) wires leading into the switch.

Red
White - Hot when winch is plugged into power
Green - Hot when spooling in
Blue - Goes straight to the back of the "overheated" LED light
Brown
Black - Hot when spooling out

Here is a diagram of the back of the switch.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1.../winchplug.jpg

There is three wires going into the back of the LED. The blue goes straight in, there is a red jumper coming from it's own terminal, and a white jumper coming from the white terminal (which is the power wire). I am thinking that the blue wire is a 'ground' that grounds out when the motor gets hot. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

I am using a 6-pin 'gooseneck' trailer light plugs to split the lead so that I can connect to the switch on the 12volt guy panel. I will get pictures of this setup once installed.

look for a 4pin trailer connector. is muy easier

It's not mounted yet, but you should get the idea. The wires that came with the female end of the plug are the same as the colors of the winch controler (except for the black in the controler and the yellow on the plug). I mounted the wires in the same slot on the plug that they would go in for lighting a trailer so that I have an easy to remember standard.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...00tiwinch2.jpg

Here you can see the mess of wires coming out of the back of the switch. The LED has a blue, white and red wire coming out of it at the top of the switch. They are covered by heatshrink right now, so I don't know exacltly how they are wired in to the light.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...00tiwinch1.jpg

Here is some guidance on opening up the cover for the solenoids.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...tiwinch3-1.jpg

I will try to trace the colored wires down for this picture later, but it gives you an idea on what is in there.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...00tiwinch4.jpg

split loom and cable clamps are your friend.

I have plenty, just need to finish it all up and get some time to clean it up. It is kind of hard for me to piddle with it every night and take my time to get it done. It is more like throw it together, wheel it, break it and mad rush to fix it before the next trip. :gigem:

Here is a cut and paste of what I posted on pbb and tx4x4.

Quote:

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I acquired a switch panel from 12voltguy.com with front and rear winch switches on it. My goal was to hard wire the winch in with the capability to pull it and use the controler on the back of my gooseneck if needed (the winch is on a reciever cradle. I started out by pulling the hand controller apart to see what kind of wiring situation I was going to be dealing with.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...00tiwinch1.jpg

Here is a wiring diagram I drew up.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1.../winchplug.jpg

Here is a closeup of the wiring on the "Hey dummy, I am too hot and you need to let me cool down" led.
The blue and white wires are connected with some sort of diodes. I am not familiar with these so maybe some one could chime in with some more info.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...100_0455-1.jpg

I wired the green, white, and black wires into the respective positions on the back of the switch panel. I then wired the red and brown into the other side of the switch. (The switch in the panel was the same type in the controler, a 6 pin, monentary three position switch.) I went ahead and wired in a red jumper to connect to the led. This will be completed at a later date once I am sure of the diode situation needed to make this work correctly.

I used a trusty old 6 pin gooseneck trailer wiring connector to splice into the controler lead. All but one of the colors used to wire the lights up match (brown=tail lights, green=right turn and brake, white=ground, red=accessory/12v, blue=electric brakes, and yellow=left turn and brake (which I matched up with the black wire). To help make future installations easier, I just put the wires in the correct pin slot like I would be wiring it for trailer lights. I mounted the female portion of the connector in the fire wall and connected it's wires to the switch in the panel, and then connected the male end of the connector to the section of lead that I cut out so that it would plug into the winch. I can now wire in another female 6-pin gooseneck connector into the actual warn handheld switch so that I can use it on someone elses vehicle or on my the back of my gooseneck for recovery purposes.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...00tiwinch2.jpg

I hope this is not too confusing.

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Flem, Fred, anybody else, is there a good online place to get the diodes I would need to wire this up in the truck? I would like to get the stuff over here and work on it in my spare time and then just 'plug and play' when I get home.

one of those is a diode, the other is a 1000 ohm resistor. radio shack.

I was told to go to the parts bin at Radio Shack to find the diode, but I didn't get a chance before I left out. I think I can get it all shipped over, I just need to double check on which diode I need.

What ever ya need Ed, just let me know and i can pick it up for ya

Found all of this while doing a little searching after reading john's post.

Quote:

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Reading left to right, the first and second color bands indicate the value in ohms. In the
example, the bands are brown and green, which equals 15. The third band is the
multiplier, orange, which indicates 1,000. Thus, the resistor has a value of 15 times 1,000 or 15,000 ohms. The fourth band indicates tolerance, the amount the value can vary. In the example, the tolerance band is gold, which means the value of the resistor shown is within 5% of 15,000 ohms. In diagrams and text, 1,000 ohms is often shortened to 1k ohm or 1k, and 1 million ohms is shortened to 1 megohm or 1meg. Another abbreviation you'll see is the ohm symbol:

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http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...stor_chart.gif

I got it off of AlpineAlarms.com. (Side note:when I tried to save the picture and copy/paste the text from one of their articles, a window popped up and said "This function is disabled!" yet it still worked. Viva La Firefox!!!!)

I was told any diode would work for this application (I think I am still working the cobwebs outa my head from the weedaritas).

Thanks Rowdy, I will get with ya if Radio Shack won't ship here.

digikey will ship, but its such a small order

I actually have all of that crap scattered over the desk I am sitting at right now. its about $0.25 worth of material. Can it wait?

I just ordered this

1N4003 Micro 1-Amp Diode

and this

1K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack)

from Radio shack. They ship so I ordered a soldering iron and solder also. I can find wire here.

Here is the wiring diagram straight out of the owners manual. I am unsure which way the diode is supposed to be though.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ingdiagram.jpg

In this one, I believe "C" is the 1000 ohm resistor, "B" is the LED, but I am unsure as to what "A" is (I think it's the diode, but it just doesn't make sense seeing how it's wired up in the switch). Did they draw the diagram shotty, or am I just not 'reading' it right?

B is the diode. the arrow indicates the direction. A and C are both resistor symbols. 1K means 1000 ohms. the other isnt labeled?

edit- im sure A is the LED since there is no label, but they usually resemble a diode symbol with some extra arrows.

edit 2 - remember that an LED is also a diode. it has to be installed correctly. the longer tang is the anode, the shorter the cathode.

edit 3- the long one goes to positive, the shorter to negative

This is how it's wired, I just don't know if the diode should be flowing electricity towards the LED or away. I think it should let the flow go away from the LED back to the TSD (temperature sensing diode) in the motor which is connected to the 'red' wire (ground) which is also connected on the other side of the LED...

do you have a multimeter? if so, measure the resistance between red and blue wires. measure from both sides also, I think TPD might be another diode, I'm curious to see how they are adding overheat protection. I think they found a really cheap and inaccurate way to do it.


the banded side of the diode should connect to the ground (red wire), the non banded to the 1k ohm resistor. the short side of the led goes to the blue wire, long to the diode resistor junction.

I didn't tear into the led enough to be able to tell which side the red was tied into, but the white and blue wires are definitely tied together on the opposite side of the red. Here is my thinking on this.

The white wire supplys 12 volts into the 1k resistor and then the power goes through the diode into the blue wire which takes the power to the TPD (which I believe to be an on/off thermostat switch) which lets the power go to ground when the winch is running cool. When the winch gets hot, the TPD goes to the 'off' position and forces the power through the LED, lighting it up. Does that logic make any sense to you?

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...100_0455-1.jpg

All I see is grubby hands and fingernails...:flipoff2:

Cool stuff, I'm interested to see the final product.