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4.3
2wd SM465 and 4wd SM465 with NP 205
Front D60
Hummer rims
:cheers:
What ratio in the 60? what final ratio are you going with?
4.10's only if my gay ass sm465 doubler works. The final crawl ratio would be 344:1. Actually is probably too much. I wish there was a closer range transimission that was heavy duty, but since the 465's are so cheap and plentiful it will do.
is that the tranny you picked up in thrall? i need one.
No that guy still has it. He wanted to much for me, all he would come down to is 375. He was a nice guy, but i saw him sell and engine and a tranny to a local for $250. I should have showed up in the blazer with nasty clothes on. I think I looked like to much of a yuppie in nice clothes.
you got enough butter dishes around in that barn. I found three in that one pic there must be 1000 or so in there. :flipoff2: i use ice cream containers they hold more
Do you want to sell that kick ass motorcycle in the first pic?... If so Id like to take it. Looks like it has been garage kept and never sat in a backyard. :flipoff2:
Quote:
Originally posted by Mack84
Do you want to sell that kick ass motorcycle in the first pic?... If so Id like to take it. Looks like it has been garage kept and never sat in a backyard. :flipoff2:
Better yet, pull a "monster garage" and rig that nice-sized engine block up to the bike.
Yes, I'll sell it for that ozarka bottle in your avatar. How old are you in that pic??Quote:
Originally posted by Mack84
Do you want to sell that kick ass motorcycle in the first pic?... If so Id like to take it. Looks like it has been garage kept and never sat in a backyard. :flipoff2:
The bike is shaft driven although I have never seen it move under it's own power. The pack rat in me won't let it go!! I don't think I'd ever want to rebuild the bike, but maybe some kick ass go kart thing!Quote:
Originally posted by TRDyota
Better yet, pull a "monster garage" and rig that nice-sized engine block up to the bike.
tires?
neon lights underneath, neon windshield sprayers, stallion hood decal, monster tach, id say your still missing quite a bit
oh no wait that is just the stuff on our next door neighbor's mustang:rolleyes:
Quote:
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
tires?
Drivetrain people, drive train! As in the stuff that makes the wheels turn. I guess you could say I'm missing the driveshafts too.Quote:
Originally posted by Snatch Adams
neon lights underneath, neon windshield sprayers, stallion hood decal, monster tach, id say your still missing quite a bit
In that case why did you show the rims, you are contradicting yourself...god only out of college for 5 months this is pathetic, you my friend are the reason i chose to stay that extra year, quitter!:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Krebs
Drivetrain people, drive train! As in the stuff that makes the wheels turn. I guess you could say I'm missing the driveshafts too.
this is true. why show the rims if you dont think tires should be involved??? :flipoff2: i was just curious what tires you're gonna run.
*******s!!:flipoff2: :DQuote:
Originally posted by Snatch Adams
In that case why did you show the rims, you are contradicting yourself...god only out of college for 5 months this is pathetic, you my friend are the reason i chose to stay that extra year, quitter!:flipoff2:
I plan to run 42" tsl's.
Other gay ideas i'm looking into are forced articulation (hydraulic rams on 4 corners inside a coil over)
Once I start actually building hopefully I'll have a place to host pictures. I'll also have a thread like scott did on his buildup.
Things I want to do before I start building the frame:
Make steering arms that work with hummer rims
Figure out if it is reasonable to mate 2 465's together
Figure out if I want to do this force articulation crap
email TexasBlake and make him give you web space on TON for picture hosting. its unlimited and its free as long as you're a member of the lonestar board.
You thinking of making the second 465 divorced? You should be able to get a yoke machined to go on the input shaft. You would need to add a bearing near the end of the the input shaft to act like the pilot bushing does.
No not divorced, married. I'm having a friend that is very enlightened in the areas of machining/gear knowledge help me.Quote:
Originally posted by eight
You thinking of making the second 465 divorced? You should be able to get a yoke machined to go on the input shaft. You would need to add a bearing near the end of the the input shaft to act like the pilot bushing does.
I wish adaptor between the 465 and the 205 wasn't so long. I've read somewhere that it is the 32 splined version. I guess I'll find out when I take it apart.
I think you need to put your drive train together to get an idea of how long its gonna be. Just kinda guess to get an idea. I think all these adapters are gonna take up more lenght than you think. How long of a buggy are you gonna have.(wheel base wise) I am thinking of rear drive shaft its gonna be kinda short huh? I think the two trannies is cool but too long. I would just pony up the money for the transfercase doubler its shorter and you wont have like 32 gears and 8 reverse. I just think that many gears would lead to a mass confusion.
Wheel base will equal that of the blazer at least. Remember we are talking wheel base and not total length. It will not have an overhang on either end, except for the stinger which will be up high.
I estimate the overall length from the front of the fan pulledy with all the adaptors to the rear yoke on the case will be ~80 inches or 6'8.
4.3 = 26.5"
465 with bell housing and without tailshaft = 18.5"
adaptor between above tranny and below tranny less than 4"
465 without bell housing but with 205 on the rear 31"
I'll be runny electric fans. I'm debating on putting the radiator in the rear. Maybe to much of a pain, but if I don't have the space in the front, the rear is an option.
I'm not totally positive I'll have enough length, I'll figure that out this afternoon.
Drawbacks to the doubler. Cost at least 800 just for the kit. Then you have to find a 465 that has 203 behind it. Pain in the ass. Only 2:1 gear reduction. Probably not too much shorter than what i will trying to build. I'd have to get new gears for axles.
Advantages of doubler. Shorter, already made and know it works.
Addvantages to my gay ass idea. Cost, got both transmission and T-Case for $250. Only thing that will cost money is a shaft from 1st trans to 2nd. I'd assume < 200. Gearing kicks ass, even with the 4.10's in the axles final drive comes to 344:1. That might be almost unnecasary(that is also a drawback).
Disadvantages to my gay ass idea. Has been done, but not like I want it. It will take time and could end up not working. Longer.
I really don't thik switching gears will be that complicated. It's not like we're on a drag strip and speed counts. The shifting pattern is the same on both trannies.
Now to figure out how to automatically down load mutual fund prices and import them into our database.
i think ... i just think... i am thinking... .damn mike what else do you think :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally posted by fbronco86
I think you need to put your drive train together to get an idea of how long its gonna be. Just kinda guess to get an idea. I think all these adapters are gonna take up more lenght than you think. How long of a buggy are you gonna have.(wheel base wise) I am thinking of rear drive shaft its gonna be kinda short huh? I think the two trannies is cool but too long. I would just pony up the money for the transfercase doubler its shorter and you wont have like 32 gears and 8 reverse. I just think that many gears would lead to a mass confusion.
Ok doubler's shorter than I thought but I still don't think I'll have a problem with length. Doubler is 6" plus like a 4" adaptor.
Ok with my kindergarten cad-skills I made the worse case scenario drawing. I'm not sure on the width of everything including the buggy itself, but I am sure about the length.
Red = Engine
Blue = 1st trans and bellhousing
Purple = adaptor
Maroon = 2nd trans and 205
Yellow = Drive shaft
Light blue = diff
With the way it's sitting right now the rear d-shaft would be 24.5" long. That's pretty short, but definately do-able. I can easily move the engine up. To tell you the truth, I've never placed an engine any other place than the stock location so I'm just guessing here.
Edit: **** I forgot to attatch, see below.
:flipoff2:
I'm thinking about going full hydraulic suspension. The guy emailed me back about it and said it was about $550 to get the custom coils done. Cheaper than I thought. I have to go talk to bill and see if he can build Hydraulic cylinders with a port on the end.
Instead of a power steering pump I'd run a hydraulic pump.
I've also researched cutting brakes more in depth. I always thought that you had to lock one tire at a time in the rear. I guess I got this idea because that's how most people do it because of tractors.
So on pirate I was reading and if you are using front wheel drive to pull you around, people have found it better to have both rear tires locked. Some agreed with this, and some said it didn't matter if they only had one, or both locked.
So on monday night after I got done unloading those transmissions I was dicking around with the cutting brakes on the tractor. This is obvious, but the reason it works so well on tractors is because the other wheel that isn't locked pushes it around.
Some more kindergarten cad. I drew the pink links in paint real quick so they are in on shape or form accurate.
I'm not real creative either. See if you can help my frame look cooler. By the way, I have no idea how to make arcs look right, that's why everything is angles. So just imagine if most of the angles are arcs:D
the cuttin brakes would work much better if you had something like an OX or ARB in the rear, this way you can lock the front, lock on tire down in the back and keep the unlocked wheel turning
Yeah but I'm not spending that much money. On those selecatable lockers does the power always go to the tire with least resistance?Quote:
Originally posted by aggielr
the cuttin brakes would work much better if you had something like an OX or ARB in the rear, this way you can lock the front, lock on tire down in the back and keep the unlocked wheel turning
are you using tube or box for the frame?
when unlocked, its just like an open diff, no limited slip or anything, and when engaged, its completely locked up, just like a spool, at least this i what i've read
except the new detroit electrac, its supposed to be limited slip when disengaged and completely locked when engaged
Most likely all tubingQuote:
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
are you using tube or box for the frame?