engine and tranny oil cooler questions

for the tranny, i already bought a b&m w/fan and am gonna mount it behind the front bumper. but i want to run an in-line filter since access to my existing tranny pan is nearly impossible now that i installed b&m's deep pan. if i mount this filter near the battery, will i have pressure issues. will the fluid be able to 1) have enough to push through the filter and 2) have enough to reach that elevation (approximately a foot). i know it's a dumb question, so just humor me.

pretty much the same issue for the engine oil. i think the engine has more pressure than the tranny at the filter, but just wanted to make sure i wasn't going to have the same issue as the tranny filter. i also will be running an oil cooler inline with the filter.

please tell me you're not trying to install an additional oil filter...
if you're having this bad of cooling issues you probably need to look deeper into the cause

additional?... tranny filter. yes. what's so bad about that? i just think the old brass/copper radiator isn't cutting it. as far as an additional tranny filter, i can't see any cons in that. the more filtration, the better right? especially if i'll be going through more soupy water than most. i don't know how to get to the breathers on top of the tranny and t-case.

I meant engine oil
then why are you adding an engine oil cooler?

Your automatic generates between 100 and 250 psi depending on the gear selected and engine rpm. That is more than enough to run through a filter and cooler at any location. Make sure you use as much hardline as possible, and 300 psi soft line where you need it.

I did a similar setup on the burban. Once I got a transmission that wasn't defective, it all worked well.

ok. yes. engine oil cooler too. again. why not? i admit, i do and have had an overheating problem since i got it this december. or at least until the summer kicked in. everything i've done so far is return everything to stock. and then i moved from there. i bought new rad hoses, heater hoses, emissions hoses, water pump, radiator fan, radiator, and radiator fluid. since that didn't do it, i put in an edelbrock water pump with flat faced impeller.. didn't do anything. bypassed all emissions hoses.. didn't do anything. found out i had a blown head gasket btwn #7 & #8 along with the a cracked driver side head (where blown head gasket was discovered). i got rebuilt heads with all new seals, springs, and valves with new head gasket.. didn't fix anything (i pulled both sides while i was at it), although it released about 100 horsepower. while it was off, i inspected the cylinder walls and water jackets.. didn't find anything wrong. everything looked great. at that time, i rebuilt the edelbrock 600 cfm carb and cleaned the edelbrock intake at the same time... didn't fix the problem. the only thing i can figure is, the tranny is getting so hot, it's heating up the radiator fluid. so while i was at it, i figured i'd install new engine oil cooler.

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Originally Posted by AgDieseler

Your automatic generates between 100 and 250 psi depending on the gear selected and engine rpm. That is more than enough to run through a filter and cooler at any location. Make sure you use as much hardline as possible, and 300 psi soft line where you need it.

I did a similar setup on the burban. Once I got a transmission that wasn't defective, it all worked well.

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the standard heater hose won't do it? thanks for the info on the tranny, what about the engine... so i guess near 45 psi? is it the same oil pressure that the slingers send the crank and heads? will it be enough to push through a filter and cooler?

Certainly there is some head loss once you get to sending oil to the cooler. There should be an auxiliary tap somewhere near your oil filter boss. That's where I have my dedicated filter lines. I got 2500 psi soft hydraulic hoses made for the engine. You will be surprised how little pressure is needed to move the oil around. I say install it and don't worry about it. Look for about 5 psi idling, and 25 driving.

i dont see any downfall of anything you're thinkin' about doing, just make sure you use the right stuff. i dont think that the tranny heating up would cause the engine to overheat, but i may be wrong. its two completely separate cooling systems. my 1st solution to your overheating problems would be, instead of spending all that $$ on adding extra cooling lines (not that they're going to hurt), would be to get a new radiator....the big 4 core variety, and if you have the $$, get a big 4 core ALUMINIUM radiator....gooood stuff. while you're at it, ditch the engine driven fan and fawking god awful fan clutch. if you can fit it, two p/n 3700 Hayden fans from ho'reillys should fit your needs. in the process you'll also free up 10HP by losing the drag of the fan on the motor. i've got a wiring diagram and all the part #s if you're interested on how to set it up.

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Originally Posted by BigRedFord04

i dont think that the tranny heating up would cause the engine to overheat, but i may be wrong. its two completely separate cooling systems.

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the lines run from the tranny, to the small auxillary tranny cooler in front, then into the bottom of the radiator, then out of the bottom of the radiator, back to the tranny. just from reading everywhere, even the EB's have the same issue. it's like a small tank inside the bottom of the radiator. but the fins flow through this tank, or something like that, where the heat is transferred between the two fluids during this process. another brilliant ford idea.

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Originally Posted by BigRedFord04

my 1st solution to your overheating problems would be, instead of spending all that $$ on adding extra cooling lines (not that they're going to hurt), would be to get a new radiator....the big 4 core variety, and if you have the $$, get a big 4 core ALUMINIUM radiator....gooood stuff.

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i didn't want to say anything cause i thought one of yall would ream me for throwing away 'all that money'.. in texas? i never thought i'd be doing anything wrong shooting for extra cooling in texas, but somehow i figured i'd get a a$$ chewin for buying sh!t 'i don't need.' damn, i feel like my folks in the next room, and i'm in highschool w/out a job. i bought a new shroud (bullsh!t a$$ fiberglass one) and aluminum 1-1/4" core radiator that will drop in. jeff's broncograveyard advertises protection up to 800 hp. if so, my engine will never touch as much heat worth 800 hp with a 1,000' pool stick.

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Originally Posted by BigRedFord04

while you're at it, ditch the engine driven fan and fawking god awful fan clutch. if you can fit it, two p/n 3700 Hayden fans from ho'reillys should fit your needs. in the process you'll also free up 10HP by losing the drag of the fan on the motor. i've got a wiring diagram and all the part #s if you're interested on how to set it up.

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when i said i went back to stock, i actually had purchased an 18" flex-a-lite 7 blade flex fan that's supposed to "pull through 4 and 5 row brass/copper radiators." but that hasn't done much. but i had dual 14" 5300cfm electrics in my 99 f-150 (it cuased the 'service engine soon' light to come on. it was cooling the engine so fast, the computer thought something was wrong). just this may, i almost overheated my 99 f150 engine cause the fans blew a fuse and i have no idea why. i let it cool off and i drove it home and tried to one-wire it (i had all kinds of relays and breakers and over-ride on and off switches) and still blew the 40A maxi fuse. so, i'm a little cautious about electrics being my only source of cooling. so i bought two 12" pusher electrics to bolt onto the front of the a/c coils to be wired straight.

so, by the end of all this, i'll probably have tipped $1,000. if it doesn't maintain 190, she's going to the classifieds. that, or i'll only fire her up between january and march. sorry for all the text and no pretty pictures.

arent those 351m's and 400m's notorious for running hot to begin with? Mine always did, and i was under the impression that it was just the nature of the beast.

i'm pretty sure they are. Kate and Tate both have them so they'd be able to say better. i just made that suggestion b.c. if i havent made it abundantly clear....I HATE FAN CLUTCHES!!!. I run my fans thru an 80A continuous duty solenoid b.c. the fuse holder i had a 30A fuse in caught on fire....didnt want that happening again. havent had any problems since, except when the bolts that hold the motor in the fan housing on one of my fans backed of, made the motor run awkwardly and then it caught on fire. good stuff. so, other than a couple of engine fires, i've never had any problems w/ my fans. hope thats encouraging. :gigem:

***. no. but thanks for the story.

You are running a carb right. If your carb is not adjusted right it will cause your engine to run hot.

also i see you are running headers. they tend to give off alot of heat as in heating up the engine compartment

the carb does backfire a little when it's cold. i don't know what that means. but it's been rebuilt and retunned a couple times. both times tunned, nothing really different.

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Originally Posted by Moose

the carb does backfire a little when it's cold. i don't know what that means. but it's been rebuilt and retunned a couple times. both times tunned, nothing really different.

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back firing is either a timing issue or fuel.

it means a rich condition; shouldn't make it run hot
edit: you beat me, but is this incorrect?

i think these edelbrock carbs are pieces of poop anyway. about $500 later will be a holly truck avenger carb.

freddy's gonna smack you!

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Originally Posted by Moose

i think these edelbrock carbs are pieces of poop anyway. about $500 later will be a holly truck avenger carb.

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I think it would be better spent on fuel injection. But i am not sure how to fuel inject an M motor

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Originally Posted by uglyota

freddy's gonna smack you!

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i've been trying to think of something clever to come back on that. but i'm just not that quick.

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Originally Posted by uglyota

I think it would be better spent on fuel injection. But i am not sure how to fuel inject an M motor

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i don't even think they have a kit for that. if so, i can't even weld much less install mpi

do you need a special manifold to run TBI? I thought you could put it on any manifold as long as it was set up for a spreadbore carb (or the other kind) anyway freddy will know.

Have you rejetted? I thought backfiring through the carb meant to lean not to rich, same **** mine did.

there is a way to put fuel injection on the M motors....tate's looked into it....it is definately $$$$.$$. holly carbs are poop. carbs are poop.

Yeah, no kits...make an adapter plate and kludge a throttle cable together, add 02 sensor and leave the rest up to GM

FYI: a lean condition and over fueling can overheat an engine.

i'm confused...aren't those mutually exclusive?

you might check the timming if its to advanced or retarded it will run hot .. is it getting hot idling or driving?? or both ?

this sunday, it only got like 80 degrees in galveston county. i drove it home in the evening around 5 pm, and it got up to 220 on the highway going appr 60-70 mph, and after driving through the city, it never came down. and the tranny does the same.

ALSO: i called jeff's broncograveyard about how much longer my radiator would be on backorder. i found out the aluminum radiator i orderred is not a cross flow. it is aluminum, but it's down flow. they said, the companies they've asked for an aluminum can't make a cross flow. the best they can do is take the old brass/copper down flows and use them as a template to make them out of aluminum. i think bronco hut says they make a cross flow w/2 1-1/4" cores direct replacement for about the same price. should i consider them.

jbg also said they route the fluid through the radiator, then the aux cooler, then back to the tranny. they say it keeps the tranny fluid cooler because the engine coolant will always be hotter than the tranny. i have it routed backwards to the way they route their tranny lines. would it change the temps?

Is aluminum really that much better at cooling than your old radiator? I know copper is a better conductor than aluminum. not sure about brass.