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So what do y'all think; snake oil or the real deal? There was a good discussion on the POR board about it. Here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...able+birfields
I haven't taken any upper level engineering classes, so I don't really know anything about this, except that it seems to me that it would just treat the surface and allow it to wear better. Most people who get axles treated just end up shattering them instead of breaking them. Engineers speak up.
I've heard it works great on certain metals, but I'm not sure which ones. If you want to find out anything I can probably beat it out of my nuker roommate. or just ask whichever gets better results
REx is right...the only advantage I see is if you were worried about friction and heat buildup in your axleshaft. The only really useful application for cryo treatment I've seen is on Tactical Rifles and Benchrest guns' barrels. It provides more consistency between shots as the barrel heats up. I ain't no engineer but i see what works. Supposedly the "Heat" treating that is done to these new birfs is awesome, however according to several reliable sources...Cali, where these POR fags test these products, :D :D is supposed to be dramatically easier on partsd than Cruces and such.
That sounds like stuff I saw advertised that you could have done to your baseball bat back in my high school days. It was like $30 and supposedly gave the bat more "pop". I guess if it makes the metal harder and it doesnt give as much its understandable. I never saw any advantage to it since I was already a badass. ;)
I took a whole class about metallic(a) materials and I should have learned about this I think, but that is probably why I am going to be here awhile longer. I pulled out the old book (the first time this **** has come in handy) and it says cryogenic freezing is done after the heat treatment (I am simplifying this) The metal is heated up to it's "mushy" state and then quenched in an oil bath, this will form martensite (the really hard stuff) The freezing part comes next to make sure that the metal is 100% martensite. The book says that with some steels the tranformation may take place at up to 200 degrees F, while others it won't happen until -50 degrees. This process makes the steel harder than ron jeremy, but real brittle, unlike Garner's Hero. So tempering is done next, this softens it just a little, but increases the toughness of the metal. So in short I guess it is all up to how they do it, and the compostion of the metal to begin with. I got a D in that class, can you believe that? (that is what happens when you miss the final)
Feeling like O'Banion more each day,
It all depends on the metal and what you are trying to get to. I did extensive heat treating and quenching at the lab at school. You can make any metal do what ever you want by looking at charts and getting the right temps for the right time. Trial and error help alot also.
In conclusion, the treatment that Bobby Long does to the Toyota Birfields makes them UNBREAKABLE when connected to the stock inner shafts and stock outer hubs. It has been tested extensivly and has now been proven by many people.
Here's what two broken Birfields look like. One has a broken 30 spline shaft (1 5/16") where it broke. Thats D60 material.
Scott, you sure d60's have 1 5/16" stub shafts? I just measured my d44 stub shaft and it was 1 and 3/16", the shaft was 1 5/16"Quote:
Originally posted by redcagepatrol
Here's what two broken Birfields look like. One has a broken 30 spline shaft (1 5/16") where it broke. Thats D60 material.
I though d60's were a lot thicker
No, I am not sure, I think that they are a little bigger, but thier damn close to 1-5/16. It depends on the spline number that you get. The last D60 I bought had 19 spline outers with a 1 1/16" shaft. Thats smaller than any of my stuff.
So using your logic I could claim that my front d44 is 60 material, or better yet stronger than a 60? ;)
it must be that metric to english conversion thats throwin you off :D
D60 outer stubs are 30 spline unless you find a really rare 35 spline one or the crappy 19 spline ones.
This is the same spline count at Toyota outers (and inners).
A standard 30 spline shaft measures 1.285" OD (from MOSER engineering). That is smaller in diameter than the section of Toyota outer shaft that I broke on my last trip out with the Toy ( 1 and 5/16" at the inner bearing).
It is common knowledge that American steel is far superior to that Japanese bull****, they probably alloy plastic into it somehow...:D
Don't the American companies like DANA and such make their stuff out of the country? Arn't the majority of parts for American trucks shipped in? Your truck is a different story, but those Ford, Chevy and Dodge boys drive "assembled in America" trucks
Not my Bronco...it's a product of american unions and their "Made in the USA" quality parts... now my mower blade... that may have been japanese, but it's cool... performance parts like that can't be questioned as to their origin.
Try again Chief, I've got several relatives who have worked in the Pottstown, Pa Spicer plant. DANA is damn near, if not 100% American made.Quote:
Originally posted by redcagepatrol
Don't the American companies like DANA and such make their stuff out of the country? Arn't the majority of parts for American trucks shipped in? Your truck is a different story, but those Ford, Chevy and Dodge boys drive "assembled in America" trucks
Thats why there was a question mark behind the question I asked.
Oh we thought that was some sorta jap symbol... Frankly I was damn suprised you didn't have a some ricer symbols painted on your old yota'. As die hard a toy fan as you are... it would be logical to have a nice "Powered.... by a mouse on a wheel" in heiroglyphics (or whatever they use) on the front fender or hood.