Ranger One

My dad wheels his stock CJ around the ranch and took it to Gilmer with me once. It couldn't hang with the Scout ;) and he caught the bug. He decided he wanted to buy a built CJ to wheel hard and keep his stock for ranch driving. After having a couple of deals fall through, he decided he wanted to build his CJ up. After contemplating having to drive a lifted jeep everytime he wants to ride around and evolving plans from a simple one ton swap to a full on build, we decided to build a YJ/CJ instead and keep the other stock. So, I give you, project "Ranger One". The stock CJ will be demoted to "Ranger Two".

First order of business was to get the axles stripped, cleaned and built. The front is a Chevy SRW Dana 60. Gear ratio is 5.13:1 with a Detroit Locker and 35 spline Yukon alloy shafts with forged Dana joints. The cover is a kit from Roughstuff and the pinion joint is 1410.

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-kingpin removal
-cover ground down
-checking ring gear run-out
-backlash at 7 thou

unless you knew it you wouldnt realize i got rid of one bolt hole. i didnt see the tradeoff of work versus at most another 3/8" of clearance to cut and plate the bottom. I did add a ramp to the backside of the lip.

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Rear axle is the obligatory GM 14FF. Again, 5.13:1 ratio, Detroit Locker, 1410 pinion yoke and Roughstuff cover. I'm running GM 3/4 ton disc brakes for their simplicity, cost, and availability. I had other ideas but this turned out to be the easiest and probably most effective set-up.

Again, the reason I bought covers in kit form instead of welded is because I was going to cut and plate the bottom and machine the ring gear O.D. This gives somewhere in the neighborhood of 2.5", IIRC, of added clearance. After considering that it wont be my rig to wrench on, my dad doesnt like turning wrenches, and any repairs will most likely be done by normal auto shops in Mt. Pleasant, I decided to forego the severe trim and leave the ring gear in stock form. I still gained a good 1.5" or so. There's a lot of beef to be cut away there. It's not a 14 bolt anymore.

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looking good

bought time you started a thread...

Next, I stripped the jeep and all the bracketry off of the YJ frame and started on the front suspension. It'll be riding on Rubicon Express 1.5" YJ SOA springs. I got 6 leaf for the front and 5 leaf for the rear. There will be no front anti-wrap bar, so I wanted the extra leaf to combat axle wrap. I didnt jump on the 44044 bandwagon for two reasons, three really. Since this will be a ranch cruiser as well as a trail rig, ride quality is a major concern. I thought springs with rates designed for a lighter vehicle and less lift would ride better. We shall see if that holds true. Secondly, I originally planned to build it low and these seemed to be better suited for that. However, I dont think it's going to turn out too low after all. Lastly, I just wanted to be different than all the cool kids.

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-stretched the frame 2" in the front
-front spring hangers
-front shackle hangers

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Man - you AND Cody put the square tube seam on the outside of the bumper!!! That's one of my pet peeves, looks like crap painted - sucker :flipoff2:

EDIT - other than that, pretty nice fab work :gigem:

i did that on purpose. you'll see why later.

maybe it's just the camera angle...

but I think your frame's tweaked :flipoff2:

pinstripe? got me interested now...

Tub came off and rear suspension and bumper went on. I stretched it as much as I could. I was originally going to stay away from a full comp cut since I don't particularly like the way it looks, but finally decided to follow function over form, plus, my dad favors the full comp cut. I will probably have to trim the ends of rear bumper and definately move the body mounts.

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-rear dogleg shackles
-bumper

I decided to go ahead and build these shackles and put them in front of the bumper. They are at a pretty good angle, but they allow plenty of movement to allow the springs to cycle fully and will result in a lower spring rate, giving a smoother ride. I left room on the back of the bumper for hangers in case I need to move them out there after everything settles.

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Front shackles. I apparently didn't take a pic of them. This is the best I could find.

whats with the offset of the shaxkes, that zig zag thing

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Originally Posted by colman

whats with the offset of the shaxkes, that zig zag thing

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full width axle = wider hangers and shackles?

Nice work John, I'd heard rumors of the build and have been awaiting pics.

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Originally Posted by agjohn02

It'll be riding on Rubicon Express 1.5" YJ SOA springs. I got 6 leaf for the front and 5 leaf for the rear. Lastly, I just wanted to be different than all the cool kids.

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I have the same exact springs on my CJ-5 and love them. I still run them in the front but the rear has stock xjs now.

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Originally Posted by redcagepatrol

Man - you AND Cody put the square tube seam on the outside of the bumper!!! That's one of my pet peeves, looks like crap painted - sucker :flipoff2:

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Fred too, but I think he might have used some filler to hide it.

Looks badass John! :gigem:

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Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN

full width axle = wider hangers and shackles?

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That is affirmative. The fronts are outboarded 5/8" and the shackles are offset 3/8". The 1/8" at the center pin didnt matter too much... thats what bushings are for right? It was too easy to just use the 3/8" strap I had for the offset shackles to worry about that detail.

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Originally Posted by CheapJeep

I have the same exact springs on my CJ-5 and love them. I still run them in the front but the rear has stock xjs now.

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Speaking of XJ springs. I saw an XJ at Bryan Iron and Metal the other day if anybody needs a set.

Question: Should I put cross braces in the shackles? On the rear, I think they would be in the way of either the spring in bump or the frame in rebound. On the front I think they would be fine. I made a pair for the front but forgot to take into account the wider space due to the offset, so they are too short and I would have to make another set. Would they improve street manners (i.e.- body sway) enough to justify the lathe time?

don't use braces - they are :rainbow:

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Originally Posted by redcagepatrol

don't use braces - they are :rainbow:

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Now THAT'S a quality engineering decision! Did they teach you the gayometer standard at El Paso? :flipoff2:

I really don't think braced shackles do you much good, unless you have super long mall crawler ones.

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Originally Posted by redcagepatrol

Man - you AND Cody put the square tube seam on the outside of the bumper!!! That's one of my pet peeves, looks like crap painted - sucker :flipoff2:

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I almost did that with my sliders without noticing but the hippy pointed it out to me so I went seam down. :gigem:

It's the little things that count. ;)

John, is this the one that was just the frame when I came to pick up the heep from ya?

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Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN

I really don't think braced shackles do you much good, unless you have super long mall crawler ones.

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I dont know what makes long shackles "mall crawler" equipment, but did you not see the picture of mine? I think they are on 7" centers.

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Originally Posted by afroman006

I almost did that with my sliders without noticing but the hippy pointed it out to me so I went seam down. :gigem:

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It's always a good idea to put the weak side of the structure toward the greatest stress... :rolleyes:, but then Pigpen is all about good appearance, right? ;)

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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH

John, is this the one that was just the frame when I came to pick up the heep from ya?

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Roger that

Ok, now this all makes sense. Just checkin.

Just had some work roll in the gate so will discuss more with you later.

show some real picsv ;) BTW, did I leave my keys in the shop?

Do you think the seam on a piece of square tubing is going to break? And if so why did you put it forward? I think longer shackles are neato, I need some longer ones for the rear of the Belle, inverted one at Katemcy.

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Originally Posted by Jackasic

did I leave my keys in the shop?

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Haven't seen them but I'll look today. Can you not get it there without them?

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Originally Posted by BMFScout

Do you think the seam on a piece of square tubing is going to break?

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It'll break before the seamless side will. Unless you just weld the whole tube to sheetmetal with no re-enforcing. Then it will just cave in the whole side of your cab. ;)

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Originally Posted by agjohn02

It's always a good idea to put the weak side of the structure toward the greatest stress... :rolleyes:

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So thats why you put the seam on the OUTSIDE of your bumper?

Methinks I'll have bigger fish to fry if 3x6 1/4 wall slider ruptures at the seam.

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Originally Posted by agjohn02

It'll break before the seamless side will. Unless you just weld the whole tube to sheetmetal with no re-enforcing. Then it will just cave in the whole side of your cab. ;)

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***** :flipoff2:

Ok, enough about the friggin' seam on the bumper already. You won't see it by the time I'm done with it.

On with the build...

Once I had all the suspension hardpoints on, I bolted the axles under it and started working on the drivetrain. The engine is a GM 5.3L V8 from a 2002 Chevy Truck. The transmission is a 4L60E 4 speed auto from a 2003 Chevy Suburban. It's the new style with a removable bell housing and six bolts on the rear. Steve at A Pick-up Parts in Houston threw in the NP241 adapter for free. I got everything with it except a starter. I forgot to ask for it, but other than that he was willing to let me pull parts that were missing off of other engines. He even let me have an extra wiring harness because there was some damage to the one on it. I got a starter at Doggett's along with about $50 worth of free accessory bolts. If you need any GM metric bolts for one of these engines, go to the junkyard. They pull the accessories off of the engines either before or during pulling them out of the trucks and throw all the bolts in the bed.

edit: I just realized that I need to clarify for this bunch. They let me have the bolts for free. I did not steal them!

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Everything you go to pick-a-part you have to steel something just to cover the $2 entry fee. I normally take some extra injectors and fuses.

not trying to start ****, but curious. Did you verify that your motor is actually a 5.3?