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On my Death-250 (99 with manual hubs), those seals were like that for 70k miles, it did not hurt anything. I would jack it up and shake the wheel, it seems like you do not have the unit bearing or hub nut seated right, or the snap ring. Looks to me like that shaft is too far into the differential.
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Putting a new torque converter in tomorrow, is there anything besides the TC seal I should replace while its out?
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Probably the transmission too :flipoff2:
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on some of those the needle bearing goes dry and machines down the outer stub. check that
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This thread title makes me think of the episode of Southpark with Russel Crowe and his tug boat Tugger.
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I tore the passenger side of my front axle down to the knuckle today to change a u joint and the unit bearings had metal shavings everywhere and the seals were in pieces with no rubber left so I returned my torque converter and bought a new Moog hub for the passenger side. With a new u joint, seals and unit bearing the u joint yokes on the axle shaft aren't hitting the lower ball joint and it's a much tighter feeling truck. I'm happy I got that done but still need to do a torque converter. I guess I need to find **** to sell. I also want to do shocks sometime kinda soon too. Anybody have a favorite for a DD/occasional light wheeling truck? Bilstein 5100?
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The 5100 seemed to last the longest, I could never tell a ride difference in any of the lower end shocks
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If you want cheapie shocks, Summit online Pro Comp shocks are super cheap and they work pretty well. They are stiff on my jeep but would probably ride real smooth on your truck.
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I can warranty the Monroe shocks that are on it since they have a lifetime warranty. I want to get away from cheap shocks. I had rancho rs9000 shocks on my other truck and it rode a lot better than before but I wanted to see what the popular opinion was.
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I just put 4 new bilstein 5100s on the duramax last week. It rides a ton better but they were pricey.
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Got the axle shaft problem fixed with a new u joint, unit bearing and seals for the passenger side. When I pulled it apart to change the axle shaft u joint there was a whole bunch of metal shavings and the seals had no rubber left. Got that all fixed and it rides a ton better.
A question on leaf spring tech. Is there a way to set up leafs to have more droop so it flexes a little bit better with out lifting it any? Softer springs on the back with longer shackles on the back and set up the bump stops to work as pivots? What about the front?
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You lost me at pivoting bump stops, but yes. Less big thick unbending leafs and more small bendable thin leafs.... Then add airbags to tow
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There are leaf keepers that hold the ends of the pack together and keep them aligned. Some people remove these which allows the pack to fan out more but makes the main leaf more vulnerable to getting bent.
You should not do this on a diesel daily driver...
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Find an axle that matches the grill and get some deavers for the rear. Then you will have a truck with suspension that works but still wont fit anywhere.