Frick decided the Nasty Pile needed some work
Printable View
Frick decided the Nasty Pile needed some work
More Pictures
No MORE Walking!!! Put beer in cooler that came with rig and go wheelin.
the pictures aren't worth a thousand words. explain lucy.
So you bought another pile?
Whad you find out about the transmission?
Alright if a mod could move the pics from Karl's thread to here that would be sweet.
My current plans after Clayton were to continue with the frickoneer. I was going to swap in a t-18/ Dana 20 combo, install tbi, mount winch, narrow, tube, and try to not make it such a turd. It was gonna cost a small fortune to do and in the end I would still have a jeep with a rusty arse frame.
While doing my normal craigslist search I found this rig/turd the verdict is still out on what to call it.
Specs:
78 half ton cab and frame
frame has been bobbed 23 inches
91 tbi 350
78 sm465
78 np 205
rear mounted radiator with dual fans
exo cage made from pipe
10 bolt front and rear with 4.88's, rear is welded
round driveshafts front and rear
dual alternators- stock new stock chevy 90 amp, and 195 amp aftermarket one
dual batterys
stock leaves in the back, 4 inch superlift fronts
setup mounts for f/r 8274
two Hella 55 watt lights
dual exhaust with flowmasters
huge 35-40 gallon tank with tbi sending unit
no flex- Thanks lift springs
Bad
No flex
Pipe Exo( plus it looks ugly)
Rusted floor boards and spots on the cab
huge fuel tank
No isolated for dual batteries
No rear brakes- ie they removed them
Things it needs to wheel the creek and other mild places
Warranty two batteries
Go to junkyard and get brakes
Oh yeah it cost less than what I have invested in the Frickoneer at this point
Fill cooler
What it
Oh yeah the motor was rebuilt 4-5 years ago when he first built he truck into a wheeler. Sits on 35/16/15 boogers on 15x10 chrome wheels. Tires have varying tread from 50% to New. Wheelbase is supposedly at 101".
Truck seems to run good, engine seems to be in good shape. The TBI wiring is interesting in a good way. That was one thing I was afraid of, I did not Frick to have some chopped together harness, and while it is not a perfect harness, it is better than some hack jobs. The guy removed a steering column, computer, and engine from a 1991 suburban. He then installed the column, engine, and computer. Then the wiring harness pretty much "plugged and played". The down side is none of the dash stuff works, but on a rig like this you really just need headlights and wipers.
I would think you could hook up most of the dash stuff. At least you should be able to find places to stick the stock oil and coolant sensors. This is if he didn't hack that wiring off.
Sorry moved frick's thread into karl's intead of the oter way around. Still works though
more pics
http://m553.photobucket.com/albums/s...8oDrvME%2F8%3D
Bonus stuff from behind the rear seat.
8274 winch controller, 2 tow straps without hooks, 1 large ratchet strap, wd-40, pink towel, beer cans, and 2x4 that spaces the back seat.
The dash gauges are 1 wire hookups that are completely independent of the TBI ****. Get a coaster manual and trace wiring harnesses.
It started right up yesterday, this is a good sign!
I was wondering if that was gonna happen. I'll see if I can change the settings on my phone so it doesn't happen again.
You're not the first one to do it like that, so don't sweat it. :laughing:
This truck is going to be peemptackular!
"who's fruckee" ("I wanna be part of the Buster & Sharpe clan" is too long for a rig name) :flipoff2:
No flex and floorboards? Turns out you're in luck. These are NOT things that you need. Highly optional. Just get bigger tires and have your date watch his toes. :D
Looks like a fun rig though, congrats! Can't wait to see pictures bigger than my avatar.
...and Krebs called dibs on the pink towel. :rainbow:
Alright I am new to the Chevy game so some info on what stuff is popular mods would be helpfull.
Immediate things that need attention:
Make the front flex better. Sharpe said that he factory leaves are 48" long and factory springs that arent worn out or have a negative arch are fairly rare. Right now it has either 4 or 6 inch lift springs. Do these springs have a centered spring pin? I am thinking about using a combo of dodge-48" 3 thick leaf pack centered pin, Waggie fronts-46" 5 leaf pack with 2" spring offset, and cj rear 44" with 6 leafs and a centered pin. Will more long leafs flex better or worse? I will also need to make a longer shackle to make up for the lift removed by the lift spring removal. Will stock springs and a longer shackle require a long slip drive shaft or will this only come when i go with chevy 52" springs?
Now for the rear I need to try and flex it out to see how bad it does flex. Right now it has a set of stock leaves that seem very stiff and thick. It also has the ghetto chevy shackle flip where someone cut a whole in the bottom of the hanger and dropped the shackle that way. How much lift roughly does this give? I would like to make or buy a Shackle flip kit. Karl was telling me there was a company selling a cut out but not welded kit to make both rear flipped hangers, but he couldnt remember the name. Has anyone heard of something like this?
How far forward can I move the front axle forward without making the push/pull steering angry? Are the rear stock springs a centered spring pin or offset, if offset how much? Thanks in advance
Before you do anything else get rid of the push-pull steering. I see crossover kits for sale used on TX4x4 prety regularly and a brand new ORD kit isnt really that expensive. For the shackle flip, use a set of the forward rear spring hangers. That is what is on Pigpen and I have a few more sets at my shop. Rear 52" springs are center pin and 56" springs have a 4" offest pin.
use a set of stock rear 52's for the front spring. its what brian has and alot of other people. good flex and if you ever do break or mess up one then replacements are easy to get. it will give you 4: lift and you can grind a few rivets, move the hanger to stock holes in the frame and make the front work without to much work, rear shackle flip is 4". brian fits 40's that way, but theres trimming and bumpstops involved
o and the trees in clayton 2 yrs ago helped with some of the kustom body work
since you have lack of body panels near your tires i would recommend chevy 52" springs on all 4 corners, that is what i am running and it flexes pretty good for leaf springs
Alright I did some looking tonight and I figured some stuff out.
The rear is a 6 leaf pack with one huge overload. Part of the reason it doesn't flex well out back is #1 is that the shackle is very short and sits perfectly vertical at ride height, #2 on uptravel the shackle hits the hanger where they did the ghetto shackle flip and dropped it through the bottom of the hanger.
When I measured the wheelbase from center of the front hub to the center of the rear hub it was like 98", if I swap to my stock waggie 54" leaves I can get 4" more wheelbase and get a better shackle angle. If I swap to 2.5 wide 56 inch ford springs I can stretch it by 7" which would give me a great departcher(sp) angle. Or I could put in a 2" zero rate on the stock 52" rears, and call it good.
The front will take some thought since my frame has been cut off right in front of the front spring hangers.
Why don't more people run waggie rears with an offset or the 56's with the offset in the front?
Push/pul won't be taken off for a while because I don't want to change to much on here till I have had it and wheeled it for 6-8 months before changing lots of stuff.
What would I need to change the np205 for a 208 or 241 that would give me better gearing? I have the figure 8 adapter? Sorry for all the questions but I don't know much about Chevys or standards.
why not use the waggy/cherokee/whateverthefawkitis box off the nastypile along with its steering components to achieve cross over? aint it all GM **** anyways?
Couple different reasons#1 is the waggie box mounts inside the frame like a ttb box, and two I have a 78 bronco box that was rebuilt and tapped for hydro by west Texas off-road. This style box mounts to the outside of the frame. If I have to change boxes I might as well use this one.
Eduardo son las fotos al final del album mejor? Si or no???
http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/j...The%20Bastard/
This link works good for me.
I guess they just change the s to an m infront of the number to make it work for mobile phones and such (s553 - m553)
Use 52" springs all the way around, they have a centered pin, can be found easily/cheap and have great flex (and if you are not running monsterous tires, you may not even need a track/axlewrap bar).
Figure out what where you want your front axle, and build plate hangers like I did to get it where you want. I don't have any good pictures of it, but the truck is in aggieland so maybe they can get you pictures of what ever you need (or you can stop by and have a good excuse to make a run to the bird ;) ). Once you have your front axle where you want it, then figure out where you want the rear and move the spring hangers to the right place. ORD makes a good shackle flip kit, and DIY4x4 is the one that has them 'unassembled' (IIRC).
I have a tapped steering box, crossover/highsteer arms and a tierod w/ TRE's at the house if you want them. All from the ORD kit (other than the tierod which Doug tapped for me :D ).
Yeah I changed the upload settings on mobile photobucket. The only reason some were small was because it wouldn't let me delete the old ones.
I have a Dodge dana 60 with high steer and behind the axle tie rod that would be great for this! I'll throw in a 14 bolt while I'm at it!
plan:
get ed's steering
remove rear overload and replace bootyfab shackle flip with a good one
52's in front
dero rates on each end
narrower tires
beat it like a redheaded step child
I still maintain that "zero rates" are sales snake words for blocks.
yes, please stop calling them that. it just makes you sound dumb.
sharpe, you can find 52" spring on the rear of blazers up to 1990 ish, mine is a 90 and came stock with them