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I've got all my fuel injection swap done, or so I thought. I went to start the damn thing but for some reason I'm getting no spark. I've tried replacing the coil and nothing....its getting a full 12v crank/run source and good ground. Anyone have an idea of what the deal is?
That ICM worked on that distributor when I pulled it, so that shouldn't be the problem.
Are the injectors getting voltage? You can put a test light in one of the injector plugs and see if it blinks when you try to start it, thats how you know if its trying to inject.
If its got 12v but not blinking then its possibly something with the wiring from the ICM to the ECM. Also, the ICM plugs suck, the wires sometimes will push themselves out of the plug when you snap it in place.
What kinda voltage are you getting while you are cranking the engine? That was my problem.
its getting a full 12v, the weird thing is I just tried it again today and all the sudden have full spark....but still wont start. I can hear the injectors firing. I'm starting to wonder if the fuel pressure regulator could be bad???
Any popping/backfiring? Is the engine harness and the main harness from the same year? Ford changed the pin locations in some years could be getting fuel at the wrong time. Pull a spark plug and see if its wet.
It is backfiring sparaticly and I think the injector harness is from a different year than the main computer harness
Ok you need to check the pins to make sure the main harness and the engine harness are in the same locations for the injectors. They moved them around for some reason that could be your problem. I had a 89 and 90 harness it was it moved around. check thatQuote:
Originally Posted by 73bronco
Yea I was just talking to my brother-inlaw and he was thinking that I might not have had to switch the pins around at the computer if the injector harness was from a non-HO motor. Flem do you know what that injector harness you sold me came off of?
I think it was an 86 non HO, but you still would need to move pins. According to my eec-iv book they are wired the same, the ecm just triggers them at different times
backfiring means you are getting spark. Where did you tie your switched 12v source into? Is the coil getting power from the old coil wire? Is it a full 12v source or is it a resistance wire for points or duraspark?
Ok I finally got the thing running, turns out the hall sensor was bad. I'm just having a few problems fine tuning it now. Is there any way to adjust idle on these things? The truck doesnt seem to want to stay running when its in drive; does fine in neutral but not in gear.
thats wierd about that sensor. ran fine until the block cracked. Were you able to buy just the sensor?
its got an idle screw on the throttle body. I unplugged the IAC and set it that way. Your supposed to make sure the IAC is closed. I don't remember how I did that but it seems to idle fine.
Do you have yours hooked up to a park/neutral switch? I forget what pin it is, but I think its the same as the clutch pedal switch. If yours is a manual it shouldn't be too hard to add another brake switch and weld a tab on to the pedal.
which ecm did you get? a9l or a9m/p?
I ended up just buying a remanufactured distributor b/c it wasnt that expensive and its good assurance
I dont have a neutral safety switch hooked up but I've heard this doesnt affect anything if you dont have one
My ECM is an A9L. I got a new cap and rotor today and that seemed to smooth some things out a bit. Probably need to adjust the TPS.
Yeah the tps has to be in the right voltage range for things to work right. Also the computer needs to learn a little bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by 73bronco