Wasn't the tech issue, read my quotes, it's his piece of **** attitude the makes hulk angry.
As far as tech, pull the ECM and have it flashed, easy as pie.
Now go back to your pathetic life.
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Wasn't the tech issue, read my quotes, it's his piece of **** attitude the makes hulk angry.
As far as tech, pull the ECM and have it flashed, easy as pie.
Now go back to your pathetic life.
JB and FJaggie, what are you guys doing? Y'all are supposed to bust my balls and make me feel like a retard, not stick up for me! :laughing:
Anyway, here's where I'm at:
In all her beauty...
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...10583918_n.jpg
Here is the faulty TDM, removed
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...28043588_n.jpg
And my homemade bypass...
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...19571322_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...72435485_n.jpg
I've spliced into the relay that connects to the factory TDM, (is the the same thing as the BCM?) You can see a diagram here on this website: http://newrockies.com/installation-i...5-buick-regal/
http://newrockies.ca/wp-content/uplo...location-1.png
I got the instructions for making my module from BDR's link, and have spliced:
the ECM output on my chip to the dark blue wire on the relay.
the 12v cranking input to the pink wire on the relay.
the ground to both the black and yellow/black wires on the relay.
I know my module works, and I have jumped the fuel pump relay and can hear it running. The only thing I can think of is that some computer is keeping the fuel injectors from firing?
There is a pin on the PCM that enables the fuel injectors and connects to the VATS I think, (but am not 100 percent sure) that this is the blue wire on the TDM relay.
I'm lost, and the car will just run for a second and then die. I feel like I'm making progress because before I made the module, it wouldn't crank at all. I feel like I'm close. Someone help me, Flem, you're good at this ****.
EDIT: and clarke, please explain how I'm the douche here... I'm not the one calling people pathetic or telling them to go die, just looking for some advice from some friends that know what they're doing and have probably been in my situation before. I thought that's what the boards are for... well that and making an ass of yourself when youre drunk on the internet :gigem:
I just like how all the wiring is speaker wires :flipoff2:Quote:
Scotchlock mania!!!
I don't think it works in a car that new, there are a lot of 90's electronics in that black box compared to the simple pile of 70s stuff you've put together.
You're also missing a voltage regulator.
Is that your car? WTF, I mean the VW was gay, but that Buick is old man gay!
Not trying to be a dick, but you're crazy if you think that will last for any amount of time. Seriously, just fix it right the first time, I don't know how many wiring **** ups I have had to fix from **** like this. I've finally learned my lesson when it comes to wiring and it's gotten to the point that I am ripping it all out and starting over.
Tommy has ****ed up lots of ****... I would listen to his retrospective wisdom.
No matter what I do you will tell me its going to the scrap yard.
Haha, it is my roommates car, and yes it's all kinds of "african-american" awesome.. so what would be the solution here?? Get the PCM reprogrammed to just bypass the VATS system altogether? If I tow this sumbitch up to Cardoc, can you reflash it for us on the cheap tum tum?
No, call them
Cardoc is a different company.
Put a rebuild kit on a motorcraft 2bbl and Summit hei distributor in my bronco. Will start up and high idle for about 3 seconds then stumble and die. I cleaned out every fluid passage with brake cleaner, new needle, seat, and float. New power valve and all gaskets too. Float is adjusted to 7/16ths. Ideas? Cant get it to idle down before it shuts off.