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Yes that's exactly what that line from the carb to the exhaust manifold does. It just tells the electric choke when it needs to be on or not when the motor is warmed up. Yes your truck will still work without it, but the electric choke will just run whenever it's already warmed up. Whenever I put a new manifold on the Jeep the old line didn't fit so I still need to find a new one, but its no big deal. As for your surface rust, just buy or borrow a DA sander and get after it, then primer time. I helped a buddy back in highschool with a bagged burban DA and primer before HeatWave two years ago, needless to say it took awhile. :flipoff2:
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i would put that highlift in the toolbox, it will keep it from rusting so much and make it much more useful. As for the choke you may be able to wire is so it is just on/off w/ a switch or convert it to a manual choke
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choke doesnt do anything when it gets power
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Powerwash it and replace the seals anyway. They are cheap and easy.
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you could always steal the linkage off a later model truck
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As far as I know ford only used a 31 spline t-case input on everything. If the bolt pattern is the same you should be good to go, otherwise you can just drill and tap the face of the 205 for the new adapter.
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no its connected. i may have to steal one off another truck. mine is loose as **** already.
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should bolt right up... and depending on the old case might not have to mess with driveshafts
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just make some shifters and twin stick the 205 while you are at it
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you realize 205's suck as far as a low range? It's only 1.92... Althought i think i remember you saying that you only have a single range?
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dont fawk with rebuilding it just sell that one and get another one.
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i have a np208 ill sell you that will bolt up, needs no rebuild, and has a much lower gearing. or a BW1356... i have no need for them so if you want them let me know and we can talk cost