I agreed, muck like revolver and those hinged shackles it just gives you a little more unusable flex. Rubber bushings have enough play that they work great
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I agreed, muck like revolver and those hinged shackles it just gives you a little more unusable flex. Rubber bushings have enough play that they work great
revolvers don't affect street performance at all, but their usefulness is debatable.
Asking all 9" gurus.
What years did Ford/Lincoln continentals come with a 9"? Availability? I heard these were the best housings to start with. Any other advice on junk yard 9" finds.
Umm....pickups?;)
I think the car 9"s would be too much hassle. You'd have to torch all the link bracketry and redrill the axles (they had a 5 on 5" pattern I believe).
well, I'm tempted to do this. . .
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/ff9/
umm, how so? I mean I guess a car 9" is narrow, but as mentioned you would have to do some sort of odd axle redrill or expensive aftermarket axles. Additionally I would not use a chunk from a car. With the exception of a few kick arse 9" car's all the chunks I have seen are small bearing and less than 28 spline.
Perhaps an EB 9" might suit you. Or I know, just get an 8.8, I have one from an '84 bronco.
there was a year when some had big bearring and disc brakes I believe. I remember way back in highschool we robbed the disc's off of something for a drum to disc conversion.
Taken from the link on the previous page. . .
There are a few different housing designs that Ford put under their vehicles. Some of the housings are fairly weak and some are extremely strong. The one that is most desirable was factory equipment on Lincoln Continentals. This housing has the exact same shape of the Currie heavy-duty housing. The resemblance is so close that even the weld that surrounds the back of the center section stops in exactly the same spot. Hmmm, sort of makes you wonder, hey! One thing that is a little different about the two housings is that the Currie one contains 0.188" walled axle tubes and the Lincoln housing actually contains true 0.250" tubes. It seems a little odd that the Lincoln's 9" housings were made stronger than the truck housings. I guess one way you could look at it was that the Lincoln housings needed to stand up to the 429ci under the hood, which put out around 450 ft-pounds of torque.
lincoln nines are good should even come with disk brakes.
5x5.5 is a great bolt pattern,
Full Float is a waste of money and time if you don't use dana 60 parts
all the lincoln rears that i have gotten havs had 5x4.5, I know this because for the the longest time my 68' had different patterns front and rear. when I converted the nine to 5x5 I thought I would just get some different rotors or redrill teh ones I had, but once i had my new moser's I figured out the 5x5 pattern was to large to fit in the hat of the rotor even if I turned down the o.d. of the axle.
lincoln calipers are pieces of shiat anyway, better and cheaper disk brake options are out there
also I have never seen one of these 1/4 wall tube 9"s
In all the 9"s I've fooked wit they have all been .188 and a little thicker near the outer bearing
Alright, lets talk axles. (newb ?'s)
Currently I have Creighton's old D44, and am slowly accumulating parts to put it together. I previously planned on throwing some gears and a locker in the D30, but with intentions of eventually going 35"s, I want the piece of mind of having a more than adequate axles.
So, should I build the the D30, or pick up an HP30? Is the HP30 worth upgrading to? Benefits? Or should I find another 44 for the front?
Keep in mind this is my daily driver, and will be for at least another three years.
i thought the TJ already had a HP30?
front is the same, rear is leaf on a cheerookee.
I wouldn't spend any money on upgrading a 30 if you plan on doing serious wheeling in the future.
Front track bar is different on early XJ's. I found this out the hard way. It's not hard to fix but it's something to look out for.
Just keep the 30. A 44's hardly better. Swapping to 30HP doesn't get you anything as usually its the shafts or u-joints that go. Swapping to a 44 allows you to also break hubs. If you want to dump some money in it put some alloy shafts in it. Otherwise, get a spare pair of shafts and have some fun.
Selectable hubs would give my an extra mpg or so... hmmmmm Less wear as well...
I don't think that hubs are going to get you any noticable difference in gas mileage, there is not that much rotating mass unlike a 60 in a truck
How many TJs ever wear out an axle on the street?
How wide is a scout 44? I don't know the year though.
if i remember right the scout 44 and early waggy 44 are the same width, if that is true i can messure mine for you.... your talking about the front arnt you?
what kind of bolts to use for collector so they don't have to be cut off after only 2 or 3 years? Grade 8? Zinc or uncoated? Locking (not nylock of course)?
anti sieze
That shiat won't melt out?
good call. Gracias muchachos
high heat nickel based shiat. some of it is o2 sensor safe, but for external bolts it shouldnt matter if you aren't retarded
220 extension cords/adapters. The picture shows what I'm trying to do, and I think all I have to do is make sure the neutrals/grounds match up but want to make sure.
My stove outlet is the only 220 in the house for now. It's that goofy 50A NEMA turkey-foot looking plug and I want to plug my extension cord into it and have the other end standard dryer-plug style. Can I just match the round prong on the dryer plug end to the middle prong on the turkey foot end and I'm good to go? My only worry is that the descriptions keep referring to the round prong on the dryer style as Ground and the middle prong on the NEMA style as Neutral.
The next conversion is to go from dryer plug to 20A NEMA but I am pretty sure that's easier...the round ones are both ground, other prongs are each a leg of hot.
And since my extension cord has 4 wires in it, I would want to double the neutral/ground, right?
Anything else to worry about?
edit: going from NEMA 10-50 range outlet (2 hots and neutral) to NEMA 6-50 (2 hots and ground) to Nema 6-20 (2 hots and ground)
stick a volt meter in each leg until you find the ground. each leg should be 110v
black and red are each leg, white neutral, green ground.
also follow brass is black (hot-black/red) and silver is white (neutral)
the 10-50 NEMA is antiquated, apparently, and has no ground, only neutral. But I am told I should be able to find an unused ground lead in the receptacle box so I just need to put a new receptacle in using all four leads and then adapt my stove to plug into it.
try 123 years old. But I think this wiring is probably more like 60. I'm with you though...doubt there will be anything in the box other than what I can see on the outside, so I guess that means me running a new ground over to the panel. Some guy on some other forum says he has an extension cord like I was planning to make, and that it is okay for temporary uses, but I don't really want to burn my house down so I am thinking I might just do it the right way.
Cant the conduit be used as a ground if its metal?
If there is, in fact, conduit...
That does present a small logistical issue.