Read the ORD link... It esplains all the trans/t-case and output combos completely.
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Read the ORD link... It esplains all the trans/t-case and output combos completely.
When I put the 10.25 in the rear if the Jeep what will I need to swap out for the Discs? Master? anyone got any part numbers of what I need?
yeah swap out the master, search pirate but i believe there is a master from a dodge 3500 that bolts up to the booster fairly easily
edit: did the searching for you and to archive it for me, but there should be some good stuff in here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=780156
I am having I guess an electrical issue with the ZJ. THe old ass battery was alwasy dead, so I went ahead and replaced it with a new one. It cranked up fine for that weekend. I did not start it for another two weeks and the battery is dead. Jumps right off, but obviously something is draining the battery. Any common issues that you Jeep people might know of? I do not have a multimeter, but wouldn't know where to start if I did.
slow drains suck. You need a voltmeter or at least a test light. Easiest way to track the drain is to pull fuses one at a time and check voltage across the terminals. The circuit that shouldn't be hot but is is your culprit. Track the wiring to the short/faulty component.
Is your underhood or glovebox light staying on?
Not necessarily. There are many circuits that stay hot all the time but have no real load with the ignition off.
The first place I would look would be any accessories that are installed (stereo, alarm etc.)
But short of pulling every fuse on everything, I would get a multi-meter that you can measure current with. My personal favorite is the clamp on ammeter. But that might cost more than the ZJ.
In my CJ, the alarm drains the battery. So I added an 80A breaker to the accessory circuit. I know that anything downstream of this gets disconnected when I trip it. When I park it in the garage, I open the breaker and hook up the trickle charger.
-Mark
I had that problem but it was draining a lot faster, overnight usually. It had something to do with the internal regulator on my alternator... I can't remember what we did but somehow we got an external regulator on it and that fixed the problem.
Thanks. It very well could be something with the alternator. It has been covered in mud for a while now.
mine did this. the $5 harbor freight multimeter can diagnose it. hook it inline with the battery +, measure current, un hook the alt b+ wire and watch it drop. Don't start the car with it hooked up this way, no headlights either. anything over 10 amp will kill the multimeter.
I think its just for show.
I'm looking at buying a supposedly chevy sm465/208 combo. It looks like a 465 and is a 4 spd. The only problem is it's a driver drop 208. Can the driver drop 208 be swapped out for a passengerside 208? The main reason for buying this combo would be to gain a hydraulic clutch assembly and the parts/ trans for a doubler down the road.
Edit- from the ord link it looks like the 208 passengerside drop from my th350 wouldn't work cause it has a 27 spline input and the 465 I'm looking at would have a 32 spline input. Is this correct or am I on crack?
I thought chevy crap was supposed to be easy and everything was interchangeable for the most part. I swear trying to make a doubler from the stuff I have is like trying to get rid of gay ass jeep quadra-trac.
Thanks again for bringing Frick into the darkside. Man I can't wait to get my Internet hooked up so that I can search for some of this crap on a real computer not on my phone.
Yes, TH350 t-cases have 27 spline inputs, you need a 32. Incidentally, I have a 32 spline input passenger drop 208 at my shop I'll sell you cheap :gigem:
Well the case that came with my new trans has a driver drop. I read that I can swap the input fairly easy to change to 32 spline.