Pics of progress hope they work
http://m553.photobucket.com/albums/s...2FDsbHZVoEg%3D
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Pics of progress hope they work
http://m553.photobucket.com/albums/s...2FDsbHZVoEg%3D
Wow, and I thought Pigpen was ugly! :flipoff2:
looks good frick
That rear panel looks pretty cool w/ the lights in it like that.
The tail lights look prety cool, you gonna paint it? I assume you're going to build a plain, low profile, flatbed?
There is some tubing paint and more body mods coming down the pipeline but for now I must go remove the old t-case and adapter. New to me adapter should be here Thursday. Whoop hopefully I can get it done for the creek.
Mount that tire flat on the bed. That way you'll be able to see behind you. I like the new look.
I dig it...
I think I am eventually going to angle/tilt the tire towards the cab/ bed more and move it a little more into the bed 1 to see a little easier, and 2 because it sticks out really far.
T-case and broke ass adapter have been removed. I also soaked the trans bolts and bushings with pb blaster so I can replace all the bushings. The new adapter should be here Thursday at the latest.
Alright the e-fan and voltmeter are hooked up, and Ii replaced the cheap plastic oil pressure line with a copper one after melting 3 of them. I also got the new tcase to trans adapter installed, along with all new tranny mounts. Tomorrow I need to make magic quadratrac fluid, swap out a busted t-case yoke, and then stab the t-case and we should be ready to rock.
New clayton short list of have to fix
Motor mounts
Find out if it is body flex, drivetrain flex or bad linkages that are making it mysteriously change gears in low. Hopefully the above fixes the problem.
New valve cover gasket on the driverside
Shocks and mounts
Like to get done
tube work
narrow front
get and install full hi-steer
figure out why it turns more right than left
install hydro assist
make new toolbox
Make it through a whole wheeling trip(most likely not happening for a few more runs)
You have a 60 in the front? The turning problem is 90% likely a draglink length issue.
The draglink and tie rod are from big nasty I need to align it and then go from there. I cut the drag link down som already but left it a little long because of a problem with the shipping of my inserts.
Today I fixed the leaky valve cover but now the workings of the internal combustion engine are giving me problems. I started it and it ran like normal but just wouldn't get warm enough to idle. The motor kept dying. Now I can barely get the motor to start and it will only run for about 20-30seconds before it dies even with my foot in the gas. I'm thinking I have a bent pushrod from the brake booster hitting the valve cover or the choke is stuck.
Thoughts?
I am guessing the choke is stuck. It has a completely mechanical choke, which I like, but need tuning.
It has 8 cylinders. One bent pushrod would hardly be noticeable. Back in the day, my pushrods would fall out from under the rockers, never gave any trouble.
Alright this thing plain ass sucks
Things I got done this weekend.
Replaced motor mounts, both mounts were completely seperated from the metal plate and looked like they had been like that for a while.
Replaced the worn out rag joint with a metal u-joint
Re rtv'd the valve cover for the second time
Re rtv'd the trans adapter to t-case to stop a leak
fixed a small brake fluid leak
Now for the problems. Alright it steers great to the right and only steers about 75% of it's radius to the left when on the ground. When I Jack up the front end it steers almost perfect left to right and doesn't seem to be binding??? I still haven't re done the draglink but that should not be the reason for this problem.
Next, it randomly decides to puke and leak ATF from somewhere up by the motor. It will slowly leak from somewhere then you park it when you leave there is a big puddle. I've tried getting under there to look but when I do it mysteriously seems to not be leaking. It is also not a fluid issue because it was actually way low when I checked it.
Oh yeah and now the oil pan is leaking like crazy because it didn't the motor mount swap.
The motor mounts are weak. I came up with a fool proof way to keep them from separating. Drill a 1/2" hole through the mount, insert proper length 1/2" bolt. Tighten a nut on the bolt until it just touches the mount, do not tighten the **** out of it. This way, the mounts still do dampen vibration, but can't back out. You will either need to use a lock nut, or double-nut it to keep the nut from backing off. It you tighten it too much, you get lots of vibration.
Tech question: How can I remove the yokes off of a quadratrac transfer case when the impact wrench won't do it?
Answer: Plave case on ground, drive over it with Klogger. This secures it. Apply pipe wrench to hold yoke, then insert 1/2" ratchet and use driveshaft tube cheater pipe to remove.
You have that pipe wench upside down...
wench this :blackflipoff2: