I would weld the joint housing to the tube, you don't need the adjustability unless you don't build the arms the same or weld the mounts on square. Much stronger as well
Type: Posts; User: AggieTJ2007
I would weld the joint housing to the tube, you don't need the adjustability unless you don't build the arms the same or weld the mounts on square. Much stronger as well
I agree and you shouldn't need very thick plate either i would go with solid 1/8 or maybe 3/16
that tool looks like it would have been easy to make
yeah one of the yards here has rear ends for $50
pick and pull won't charge you 200 if you came out of something old or way too plentiful
yeah I would check your battery cables too, battery acid likes to work its way down the battery cables.
get the harbor freight battery brush and clean it then spray it with the stuff that stops...
I dont think you should worry to much about front driveshaft length. My front driveshaft is super long with the front stretched and a doubler
those are some pretty good deals plus you could rebuild your current trans and learn how to rebuild an automatic transmission
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=829346&highlight=fast+juggy&page=9
here is some bad ass TTB stuff
I think that Cody at Hughes Fab in Navasoto can cut it out for you, he is a TAMOR member but you may have not met him yet. The bumper looks good i like it
yeah and frick can show you how to build some extended radious arms
in the rear your leaf springs should be good, you could probably just benefit from some longer shocks and an antiwrap bar.
with the anti wrap bar you could probably take a leaf out of your rear...
That is what I was trying to get at. From watching you and your TTB I would assume that everything else that you wouldn't need a 60 for the TTB should work fine
I agree i wouldn't waste the money on a Dana 44 swap I would keep the TTB until you are ready to swap a Dana 60. The 60 is going to cost a little more money but if you really get into wheeling it...