That is why I am not going to shoot you a price, because I know it is worth more than what I would want to offer right now
Type: Posts; User: bcolman
That is why I am not going to shoot you a price, because I know it is worth more than what I would want to offer right now
I would be interested but you would not like my offer
if you extend the mount on the tierod then you should be able to get the cylinder closer to parallel and in plane like it needs to be
the rears are stock 90 blazer and the fronts are rears from an 80's 1/2 ton suburban
as for number of leafs i have no clue, but they are stock other than the missing overload in the front
i run 52's w/o the overload for my fronts and with the overload for my rear, i left the overload in the rear to help with wrap, that is all, i was going to take it out once i built an anti wrap bar
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first you need to know how much angle you need with your suspension travel, then make your decision based on that number
just call psc and they will tell you what you need even if you dont buy form them
looks good, but why not paint it the same color as the rest of the body?
the only thing i have seen people add is a piece of square plate in there and welded all the way around, but that looks good to me
its actually the d44 that came in my blazer
machining a d44 flat top for a high steer arm
why do you have to wait till you get it back to dallas to get the exhaust redone, there are shops here in town
did you try talking to parts mike, if they will change the taper/size for no charge or close to nothing you will be out the door for about 220 plus shipping
i was going to use the nutter guy, but i didnt want to send it out, if you print out that sheet villas may be able to match the price, atleast then if something goes wrong you have some one in town...
where are you going to get your knuckles machined and drilled/tapped? i got one done at villas for 50, which was cheaper than i found anywhere on the web to send it out and get it done. the only...
did you only tie it in at 2 places?