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Thread: Tomorrow, I sweat.

  1. #1
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    Tomorrow, I sweat.

    I've been gathering stuff to build my own compressor...it's turning into quite a monster. My compressor that I just picked up in January has already died, and it turns out the entire thing was recalled in 2002, making it near impossible to find parts.

    So since I already have a good 5hp motor, I decided to go with a 5hp pump. Picked up this pump at Harbor Freight the other day, on sale for $99. I've talked with a few people who have one and they all like it, but I went ahead and bought the 2 year replacement warranty just in case. It's got good specs...13.4cfm at 90 psi is as good as most pumps this size. Got it home and tried it out, which led to this problem.



    As you can see the pump kind of takes over the entire tank. The tank needed to be replaced anyway due to the recall, and I got lucky and scored this beast on Craigslist yesterday.



    It's a 60 gal Dayton tank. Damn thing is 68" long. So now I've got to figure out how to hook all this crap together. Biggest problem I am having is connecting the pump to the tank. The outlet of the pump is a 1/2" (5/8" OD) tube compression fitting. The tank has a ~3/4" OD tube compression fitting. I haven't been able to find a compression union reducer anywhere to go from 3/4" OD to 5/8" OD tube. What I've come up with is using the original 3/4" compression fitting on the tank. I'll then sweat a 3/4" copper elbow to that, then a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer, and a 1/2" line to the pump. This is my first time ever to sweat copper tubing, an internet crash course tonight should make me an expert by tomorrow.
    BDR

  2. #2
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    Nice work! Mine wont be near as big, only a 2 horse motor. I might be able to get a reducer for you if this plan doesnt work out.
    Seth Stewart '04
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    1998 GMC pickup - sold
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    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  3. #3
    Once was lost... BMFScout's Avatar
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    Run it into your original tank and then run the outlet of the tank into the new one or vice versa. Canadian? Yes, but it'll make that much more capacity! My Grandpa did it in his shop, works good! That is a monster tank though, nice score! Looks like you need another pulley on the compressor to run two belts though. I'm not advertising for Purvis any longer, but you can get the pulley and belts from them, probably B sections. If you need any help with how to sweat them together you can call my brother in law, ask Eric, he's a genius at over the phone plumbing questions.
    Last edited by BMFScout; 05-14-2008 at 11:37 PM.
    Boats and hoes

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    With a dollar-fifty for a bottle of wine,
    I know just what I'm lookin for
    Thunderbird will do just fine.

  4. #4
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    I would need to know what you need femaile and what male though.
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  5. #5
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    I was actually considering the multiple tank thing...turns out I've got three tanks laying around from dead compressors. Just for grins I put a WTB on CL for a tank and this guy had bought the entire compressor but only wanted the compressor/motor, so i got the tank for $75.

    The whole adapting 5/8" tube to 3/4" tube thing has been a bit frustrating. I've been digging around Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, called plumbing supply stores, a/c supply stores, grainger, etc, and no-one has a direct 3/4" to 5/8" compression union reducer. I can get there if I go from 3/4" compression to 3/4" NPT to 5/8" NPT to 5/8" tube, but that would look like crap and probably vibrate itself to death hanging from the copper tube. Finally a guy at the a/c supply suggested I buy copper plumbing fittings and sweat them together. I spent a couple hours this afternoon chasing those. Evidently plumbing **** is different, so 5/8" OD tube is actually referred to as 1/2", and 3/4" is actually larger (based on nominal pipe size I guess).

    As far as I can tell sweating doesn't look that hard. Apply flux. Assemble joint. Heat joint. Apply solder to joint, while heating at opposite end. Let cool. In the end it will probably be nicer, but it sure is taking lots of my time to figure out.
    BDR

  6. #6
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    so the tank is not a male stub? i was thinking you could go comp to female nptf.

    connectors go from comp to pipe, anything comp to comp is a union, therefore it is same size on both ends.

    do i sonud as tired as i feel?
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  7. #7
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    The tank has got a female NPT bung welded in it. I'm not sure the size, it's pretty big though...maybe 3/4" or 1" NPT. I can't thread just anything into this bung because what is currently threaded into it has the built in check valve. I tried to pull the check valve out last night to see if I could find one with the correct NPT thread and a 5/8" compression fitting, but even with a cheater bar I couldn't get it to budge.
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    BDR

  8. #8
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    gotcha. nice graphic btw. let us know how the sweating goes.
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  9. #9
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMFScout View Post
    ...ask Eric, he's a genius at over the phone plumbing questions.
    This is true! The solution is probably going to involve carcinogenic fumes from burning PVC cement though

    I think the sweating is just a tad harder than you wrote out. It's more like doing a good solder job, you have to get the feel for getting everything the same temperature and slowly get it up to the melting point of the solder then use the heat to draw solder into the entire joint.

    that compressor you got has an oil bath, right? Anybody know if there is such a thing as a compressor that uses a belt that is turning on the horizontal plane?

    Oh and BDR if it were me I'd get some heat on that bung (hehe) and take the fitting out so you can replace the check valve; make everything independent
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  10. #10
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    I've thought about putting heat to it, but if I broke that thing off in the tank I'd go to the neighbor's house and punch all of their baby kittens.
    BDR

  11. #11
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    take pictures!
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  12. #12
    Flyin' the Hindenburg 2.0 DRAGOONRANCH's Avatar
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    ooohh, yess, and post on pbb, you will be the new hero!!!!!
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  13. #13
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    Connect 3/4" tube to 5/8" tube with this. Your local vendor is West Houston Valve and Fitting and their number is 281-531-5855
    http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...rt=B-1210-6-10

  14. #14
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    Now you tell me...














    Seriously though, thanks a lot. I'm gonna pick one up on my way home!
    BDR

  15. #15
    Registered User robertf03's Avatar
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    do you have a reamer?
    ...

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