If you run a tube, do you need to have something in there to hold the tube in place? I know dirt bikes have this.
If you run a tube, do you need to have something in there to hold the tube in place? I know dirt bikes have this.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
I know the dirt track guys never did when I was working at Eaker's. Would the valve stem keep it where it needs to be?
In fact, when we set up dirt track tires we would put baby powder inside the tire before putting the tube in to reduce the friction and wear between the tube and the tire.
BDR
I think i found an 8.8 for me heep. my question is that the axle has 4.10 gears....should i keep these and upgrade the front axle or should i get 4.88s for both? I am on a (measly)budget.
Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor, and the contrary opinion is wishful thinking at its worst. Nations and peoples who forget this basic truth have always paid for it with their lives and freedoms." — Robert Heinlein
Tube: Just make sure you put a boot on the inside of the tire to keep the hole in it from rubbing one in the tube or pinching it. +1 on the baby powder and check the rim and tire for anything else inside that might not get along w/ the tube. Go ahead and get you a few patches for the tube while you are at it.
Axle: Leave the gears like they are. The higher gears (lower numerically) in the front will allow your front tires to turn faster, therefore pulling you up the obstacle better.
Originally Posted by Fredo
My bitch better have my money...
Through rain, sleet, or snow...
My whore better have my money...
Not half, not some, but all my cash...
'Cause if she don't,
I'm gonna put my foot in her ass.
If the gears are good in the 8.8 just put 4.10's in the front and be done, then upgrade later if you want.
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
gotcha
Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor, and the contrary opinion is wishful thinking at its worst. Nations and peoples who forget this basic truth have always paid for it with their lives and freedoms." — Robert Heinlein
It appears that my new steering stop is actually my axle shafts. This is a result (i guess) of mating a Yukon Chevy outer to a Ford inner. Not good or no big deal?
Edit: at rest, and at full lock both left and right, the stop is actually in the box. The inner/outers are close but do not touch (obviously they have touched at some point though). The cast in steering stop on teh knuckle as seen in the first pic does not reach the C before the box stops turning. I suppose I could weld on some round stock to the knuckle to make that the actualy stop, but not sure if it really matters
Last edited by JB; 07-14-2010 at 03:58 PM.
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
drill and tap the inner c insert bolt with jam nut and then its adjustable
or take a die grinder and clearance them where they tough until they don't touch anymore
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
this. having your steering stops not be your steering stops will make you knuckles last longer with hydro steering. the cylinder is actually the best place to serve as the stop, IMO.
I have some new spicer 4.10s for a D30 in a box someplace I could let go for cheap.
A few XJs came with 4.10s, and 5speed 4cyl TJs did too. (If you can find a junkyard one for cheap and swap it in)
SHUT UP AND WHEEL
you still have to account for tierod flex, so the knuckle stop should be pretty close even though the ram should bottoms out first.
Is there an easy way to wire up e-fans? Right now I have the mechanical fan (with a broken clutch and a shroud that doesn't fit) and the e-fans set up as pushers. They are dual 12" fans from a dodge minivan. I don't want to spend $50 on some wires. I plan on taking out the mechanical crap and switching the fans to pullers
don't forget the fuse
2010 VW Jetta - DD, 5 Banger, 5 Speed, 1000 Watts of sound!!
1979 Ford Bronco Custom - 400/T18/205.. 35" SSRs, 4" lift, Rancho 5000s, 200 watts of sound!!
What's the best way to get a strong bond between 2 pieces of metal brake line? I've tried soldering and jb weld and neither is strong enough. This is for building a frame for a RC crawler, so I don't want to use and threads into different shaped distribution blocks or anything like that.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
