05 will be a coil sprung axle. I think all of the coil sprung stuff is cast into the axle instead of welded on, but I could be wrong. If so it will make suspension setup more difficult.
05 will be a coil sprung axle. I think all of the coil sprung stuff is cast into the axle instead of welded on, but I could be wrong. If so it will make suspension setup more difficult.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
What Ryan said, but make sure you find a matching rear
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
it seems people only bash unit bearing axles when they have to replace the unit bearing cause of the cost, i havent seen much on the strength difference but i wouldnt think it would be too different than a traditional hum assembly
yes but when it comes time to change an axleshaft i would much rather have a unit bearing than a conventional bearing assembly. There are quite a few advantages to a unit bearing, but they are expensive to replace
Originally Posted by afroman006
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
They do not go out very often. Of all the many 99+ fords my family has had, we replaced them only on a 12" lifted f250 and a old utility company work truck. Your bronco will probably have gone the way of all 78-79 broncos long before the unit bearings go out. As a bonus, the axle is already set up for a good suspension.
I heard you can use sterling 10.25 ring and pinions in a 10.5. Is this true? Also, does the superduty 60 use the same r/p as a normal 60?
yes I am pretty sure that they are the same r/p but check randy's first
Last edited by AggieTJ2007; 05-09-2011 at 09:55 PM.
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
Yes you can use the 10.25 gears in the 10.5, but I don't reall know why you would.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
Gonna take a stab at making my own driveshafts for my D300 swap. Got a few parts laying around.
So, spicer coats these slips with something they call Glidecoat (I think it's Xylan or something engineering smart sounding). One of my driveshafts the coat is peeling. Anyone see a problem cleaning the coating off and run without?
BDR
I would say you have enough parts to make a few driveshafts. What kinda driveshaft do you need for your d-300 swap? I have a shortened XJ front driveshaft I would sell you. 1310 u-joints CV, not sure on the length. It was a spare for my jeep but I will be going 1350 joints and won't need it.
As for that glidecoat cr*p, I wouldn't think twice about wire wheeling it off and just lubing the splines up with some axle grease
I've got most of what I need. I'm going to pick up a 2.75" .120 wall tube to sleeve and lengthen the rear shaft (currently 2.5" .083 wall). For the front I'm going non-cv. I've got a 2" .120 shaft, but it had a saginaw cv on it, so I need to pick up a standard 1310 yoke for it.
BDR
Does anybody have some good info on welding to cast? It would be with my 180 amp mig
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
cast steel or cast iron? hit a grinder on it and see what the sparks look like, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Spark_testing_2.png
If it is cast steel just go ahead and weld it like you would normal steel maybe a little preheat if it is real thick over >1"
if it is cast iron you really should use some hi-nickle rods but I have welded it with mig by cleaning it good, preheat, weld, peen the weld, post heat,
What is it that you are welding?
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
axle diff housings
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
preheat, weld, postheat worked well for me
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
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