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Thread: Random Tech Questions

  1. #1006
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    Read the ORD link... It esplains all the trans/t-case and output combos completely.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  2. #1007
    Sand Man Shaggy's Avatar
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    When I put the 10.25 in the rear if the Jeep what will I need to swap out for the Discs? Master? anyone got any part numbers of what I need?
    Jonathan Tate
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    2010 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 MegaCab
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  3. #1008
    Rock and Roll AggieTJ2007's Avatar
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    yeah swap out the master, search pirate but i believe there is a master from a dodge 3500 that bolts up to the booster fairly easily

    edit: did the searching for you and to archive it for me, but there should be some good stuff in here

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=780156
    Last edited by AggieTJ2007; 01-23-2010 at 10:21 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    So driving by brail is why your jeep looks the way it does eh?

  4. #1009
    ill be your pickup man
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    I am having I guess an electrical issue with the ZJ. THe old ass battery was alwasy dead, so I went ahead and replaced it with a new one. It cranked up fine for that weekend. I did not start it for another two weeks and the battery is dead. Jumps right off, but obviously something is draining the battery. Any common issues that you Jeep people might know of? I do not have a multimeter, but wouldn't know where to start if I did.
    92 YJ
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    11 F-250 4x4

  5. #1010
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    slow drains suck. You need a voltmeter or at least a test light. Easiest way to track the drain is to pull fuses one at a time and check voltage across the terminals. The circuit that shouldn't be hot but is is your culprit. Track the wiring to the short/faulty component.
    Is your underhood or glovebox light staying on?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  6. #1011
    Club Old Man mark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uglyota View Post
    slow drains suck. You need a voltmeter or at least a test light. Easiest way to track the drain is to pull fuses one at a time and check voltage across the terminals. The circuit that shouldn't be hot but is is your culprit...
    Not necessarily. There are many circuits that stay hot all the time but have no real load with the ignition off.

    The first place I would look would be any accessories that are installed (stereo, alarm etc.)

    But short of pulling every fuse on everything, I would get a multi-meter that you can measure current with. My personal favorite is the clamp on ammeter. But that might cost more than the ZJ.

    In my CJ, the alarm drains the battery. So I added an 80A breaker to the accessory circuit. I know that anything downstream of this gets disconnected when I trip it. When I park it in the garage, I open the breaker and hook up the trickle charger.

    -Mark
    Just when you though it was safe to go back in the water...

  7. #1012
    No progress... bburris's Avatar
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    I had that problem but it was draining a lot faster, overnight usually. It had something to do with the internal regulator on my alternator... I can't remember what we did but somehow we got an external regulator on it and that fixed the problem.

  8. #1013
    ill be your pickup man
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    Thanks. It very well could be something with the alternator. It has been covered in mud for a while now.
    92 YJ
    04 F-150 4x4
    11 F-250 4x4

  9. #1014
    Registered User robertf03's Avatar
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    mine did this. the $5 harbor freight multimeter can diagnose it. hook it inline with the battery +, measure current, un hook the alt b+ wire and watch it drop. Don't start the car with it hooked up this way, no headlights either. anything over 10 amp will kill the multimeter.
    ...

  10. #1015
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robertf03 View Post
    mine did this. the $5 harbor freight multimeter can diagnose it. hook it inline with the battery +, measure current, un hook the alt b+ wire and watch it drop. Don't start the car with it hooked up this way, no headlights either. anything over 10 amp will kill the multimeter.
    you know there's a replaceable fuse in there right?

  11. #1016
    Registered User robertf03's Avatar
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    I think its just for show.
    ...

  12. #1017
    True Hollywood Stry
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    I'm looking at buying a supposedly chevy sm465/208 combo. It looks like a 465 and is a 4 spd. The only problem is it's a driver drop 208. Can the driver drop 208 be swapped out for a passengerside 208? The main reason for buying this combo would be to gain a hydraulic clutch assembly and the parts/ trans for a doubler down the road.

    Edit- from the ord link it looks like the 208 passengerside drop from my th350 wouldn't work cause it has a 27 spline input and the 465 I'm looking at would have a 32 spline input. Is this correct or am I on crack?

    I thought chevy crap was supposed to be easy and everything was interchangeable for the most part. I swear trying to make a doubler from the stuff I have is like trying to get rid of gay ass jeep quadra-trac.

    Thanks again for bringing Frick into the darkside. Man I can't wait to get my Internet hooked up so that I can search for some of this crap on a real computer not on my phone.
    Last edited by stx4wheeler; 01-27-2010 at 10:56 AM.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  13. #1018
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    Yes, TH350 t-cases have 27 spline inputs, you need a 32. Incidentally, I have a 32 spline input passenger drop 208 at my shop I'll sell you cheap
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  14. #1019
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robertf03 View Post
    mine did this. the $5 harbor freight multimeter can diagnose it. hook it inline with the battery +, measure current, un hook the alt b+ wire and watch it drop. Don't start the car with it hooked up this way, no headlights either. anything over 10 amp will kill the multimeter.
    They're only $1.99 last time i checked

  15. #1020
    True Hollywood Stry
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    Well the case that came with my new trans has a driver drop. I read that I can swap the input fairly easy to change to 32 spline.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

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