Random Tech Questions

[JB]

Does anyone have a Chevy 60 stub and a Chevy 60 spindle that I can look at? Making this knuckle work is becoming a pain. When I get the Ford spindle on this hybrid knuckle, it will not go on all the way. When I hit the nuts with an impact, it basically locks the shaft to the spindle, making it unable to turn. The distance from the spindle mounting flange to the center line of the balljoint is 3/8" difference as well.

I was under the impression though that the only difference between Ford/GM spindles was the length, but there must be some difference in the area of where the spindle slides into the knuckle.

[JB]

A GM 60 will use a 5-332x u joint and a Ford 60 will use a 55-4x. This leads me to believe that there might be a difference in the ears, which might allow a spindle (either Ford or GM) to work.

[stx4wheeler]

I have a spindle and stub here in Crosby if you wanna take a look tomorrow after work.

[agjohn02]

I have done this many times and I think only once with good results. Seems the large bits usually like to jump around instead of just drilling straight down the pilot hole.

Here is my recommendation. Drill a pilot hole, 3/8" or so. Then get a unibit that goes to 7/8". Use this unibit, slowly, with lube, to get the 7/8" hole started. Then switch to a 7/8" bit and finish the hole.

The unibit will start a good hole and the 7/8" bit will follow it through. Otherwise, when just stepping up bit sizes, I find that the large bit doesn't like to just follow the pilot hole. It chatters and you end up with a larger hole than you wanted.

you aren't per chance, holding the work piece by hand rather than clamping it down are you? maybe using a crappy drill press? your holes are triangular shaped arent they? try a smaller pilot hole. just bigger than the unsharpened portion of the drill bit tip.

[eight]

I think it may be a crappy drill press. Still strong enough I wouldn't attempt to hold it by hand. Could be crappy bits. I have found that using a smaller pilot hole works better.

[JB]

Does anyone have a Chevy 60 stub and a Chevy 60 spindle that I can look at? Making this knuckle work is becoming a pain. When I get the Ford spindle on this hybrid knuckle, it will not go on all the way. When I hit the nuts with an impact, it basically locks the shaft to the spindle, making it unable to turn. The distance from the spindle mounting flange to the center line of the balljoint is 3/8" difference as well.

I was under the impression though that the only difference between Ford/GM spindles was the length, but there must be some difference in the area of where the spindle slides into the knuckle.

Buying forged parts...worth it? I need to buy new spindles and hubs

35 spline outers? ANy preference? Yukons the cheapest?

Drive flanges? They all seem the same, except for the cover. I would prefer not to advertise.

U-joints seem stupid expensive. I will need to connect a Chevy outer to a Ford inner.

[stx4wheeler]

Anyone know if dodge/jeep/ford np 208's have the same output splines? Do the dodge and jeep ones use a front output flange like a chevy or a yoke like a ford?

[Eckert]

the NP208J i had, had a 1310 yoke. dont know about the dodge.

[stx4wheeler]

Interweb research shows dodge and chevy front outputs to be the same.

[Sparling]

Anybody have cookie cutter plans for a 400hp 351W to go in my Mustang? I wanna go fast.

edit: maybe just 300hp.

[uglyota]

random tech answer:
when replacing an axleshaft using the "no-pack" method, pull the hub lockout assembly first. Not having to slide the stub splines in while you're manhandling the rest of the hub assy makes life much easier.

Also it occurs to me that said hub assy and axle assy are currently hanging on my inner axle seal since it started raining before I got the caps bolted on. Which means it's probably trashed and gonna leak as soon as I fill it if I don't put a new seal in before I button it up tonight. Dam.

[RCcola55]

Anybody have cookie cutter plans for a 400hp 351W to go in my Mustang? I wanna go fast.

edit: maybe just 300hp.

for simplicity, edelbrock power pack. if you are talking about that old stang of yours, then go with a 347 with around 10:1 compression, a set of AFR's or trick flows, rpm intake, and decent cam, fuel delivery of your choice and you will be well into the 400 range

[BroncoJo]

Anybody have cookie cutter plans for a 400hp 351W to go in my Mustang? I wanna go fast.

edit: maybe just 300hp.

for simplicity, edelbrock power pack. if you are talking about that old stang of yours, then go with a 347 with around 10:1 compression, a set of AFR's or trick flows, rpm intake, and decent cam, fuel delivery of your choice and you will be well into the 400 range

Ryan's answer is probably the best, but...



I'm not a big fan of 347 or bigger budget small blocks. I would say stay in the 302-333 ci range, work over some 289 heads, 11-1 comp, RPM intake, big ass carb, cam that peaks somewhere around 7500-8000 RPMs. Then put it on some gas.


also recommended for 400 hp:

headers, e fan, ignition, decent rear end, locker or spool, sub frame work, probably air bags, brakes, tires, clutch, decent gauges, AND mufflers and more

[Sparling]

...a set of AFR's or trick flows...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-5141B010/

What about these? What size combustion chamber should I be going for? Smaller?

[RCcola55]

those heads are bare. there is a lot that goes into determining CC size, determine your rotating assembly first and then match the head to your expections. I was just throwing those heads out there for reference, there are many heads for a lot less that will give you what you want. i.e. Pro1 and partiot are the frist ones that come to mind. Go to Barnes and Nobles and get yourself the book called "big inch ford small blocks" there is tons of info in there