Originally Posted by Sparling
Try reading the descriptions.
Try reading the descriptions.
'73 J2000 Thriftside Gladiator, 258/T14/D20
'81 CJ7 Laredo, 258/T176/D300
Thats what I'll try, seems parts can be had for $350-500.
One question:
The 2008 dampener is roughly $120 dollars, would I be better off buying a bilistien or fox instead?
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
I have never done more than screw on the adapters and fill. Has always worked, never a problem. I think I only did this on 70s-80s John Deere's though. Maybe that's the reason they always needed a can added at the beginning of the season.
i know on the second gens if you use steering from a 98 hd then they are t style but i don't know about third gens
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
Sparling I have a Haynes A/C tech manual you can borrow if you want to learn more than you ever wanted to know about a/c systems in general.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Here's some cheap fluid cooler tech. 90's Ferd Esploders came with an external stacked plate transmission cooler that has 3/8" hose barbs on it and is perfect for use on a trail rigs as either a transmission or (in my case) power steering cooler. It measures ~12x10x1/2" and has three mounting feet so you dont have to use those ****ty plastic things that stab through the radiator.
Then, GM put larger stacked plate oil coolers on tons of trucks and suburbans in the late 80's and 90's. The sizes vary widely and there doesnt seem to be any logic as to how they selected the size for each application. These are a bit thicker than the Esploder cooler mentioned above, but they were originally used as oil coolers so you dont have to worry as much about flushing them out if you are changing applications. The only thing that kinda sux about these coolers is they use a metric o'ring fitting to attach the lines, which typically isnt available as a normal brass hydraulic fitting. They are, however, hella easy to find in AN fittings so it will cost a little more and be a little more trouble, but its still totaly do-able. One other option is to snag the lines off the truck with the cooler and cut and flare them to just stick a 1/2" hose on. Your choice.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Anybody know of a good write up online of how to do all the post paint bodywork? I did a little painting and need to make it look good, but not show quality.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
did you spray clear?
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
no, it's single stage.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
not much then, wait a few days then try and buff it
Last edited by RCcola55; 08-05-2010 at 09:46 PM.
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
Yukon Super Joints, the good the bad and the ugly. Opinions?
I'm tempted to buy a pair on pirate that are used, and he says one of the caps has a crack in it and needs to be replaced. I looked them up on line because I am not familiar with them. They are the needless type with bushing sleeve, replaceable caps tend to run $10 or so a piece.
Do the trunnions last? or am i buying a piece of sh*t paper weight? Link. . . http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...504&highlight=
Even If I went ahead and replaced all the caps I would still be basically get a whole joint for free compared to the price of new.
Last edited by 85cj7; 08-08-2010 at 06:31 PM.
Why would you want a u-joint that has been ragged on by someone in multiple trucks? I wouldn't waste my money on that.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
I once bought a pair of them. The fit of the caps was ****ty, some too tight to get on. One of the crosses was too big, did not fit in the Yukon shafts (of note is that the other cross fit in the same shaft). They do not have bushings. Supposed to be two hardened and finely machined surfaces rid against eachother and you grease them. The machined surfaces were not that nice. Sent them back and bought Spicers.
Thanks for the advise kopecki,
Good thing I looked around. . .
http://completeoffroad.com/i-123335-...-297x-203.html
$250 = 2 joints, circle clips, grease gun, grease, zerk fittings, o-rings.
Rebuild kits are $55 each
Used Joints are $125 pair
Grease gun with grease is $50
Zerk fittings are $2 each
Snap Rings are $15 each
Total of $331 for used joints!=Bull****
A friend of mine is running them with good results. He broke some yukon shafts but the joints have survived.Yukon Super Joints, the good the bad and the ugly. Opinions?
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