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Thread: Random Tech Questions

  1. #2221
    ill be your pickup man
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    I run a full length add-a-leaf in the rear and have ZERO axle wrap issues. This leaf is simply combined with stock Ford 3" wide springs. I do not 'flex' as much as many people do, but I find it to be sufficient This lack of 'flex' has not been a huge issue anywhere that I have wheeled.

    It has seemed to me that one of the most common breaks on the trails and headaches in the garage have been anti-wrap bar related, thus I choose to not have one.
    92 YJ
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  2. #2222
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JB View Post
    It has seemed to me that one of the most common breaks on the trails and headaches in the garage have been anti-wrap bar related, thus I choose to not have one.
    I agree that they seem to break, but several people have no issue with them. In the front an anti-wrap bar is more difficult since there is more going on up there. Seems like there are a few steps to combat most of the common breaks:

    1) Weld the ever living dog **** out of it to the axle
    2) Use decent size/quality tube, with 2 bars a framed all the way up to the attachment point for the bar
    3) Make ladders that connect the A-Frame

    Any opinions on heim'd ends vs. bushing? Heim's would allow for a little less tolerance on the holes being drilled since you can screw and unscrew them from the tube.

    Thoughts?
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
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  3. #2223
    Big Baller 85cj7's Avatar
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    I have an anti-wrap bar as well as the longer spring perches on the rear and have no had issues (besides antiwrap bar crossmember bending which was no fault of the bar or it's effectiveness on combating wrap, just poor judgment on my part on where to mount it). My spring perches in the front are the standard 4" long, in the rear I doubled them to be 8" long. In theory this makes sense to me that it would help to stop the spring from inverting as easily and was a cheap and easy option when installing my rear.

    Use bushings at the axle end and a johnny joint at the frame end of the anti-wrap bar. I used the ruff stuff kit and it was about $75 for the bushings, tubes and brackets, which was a quick and easy way to ensure that everything was appropriately sized and measured. Pics are in my build thread.

    http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost...&postcount=342
    http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost...&postcount=350
    http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost...&postcount=376
    Last edited by 85cj7; 12-23-2010 at 09:35 PM.
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  4. #2224
    sprayin' the house down CheapJeep's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redcagepatrol View Post
    just run an anti-wrap bar and call it done. If you actually have decent fabricating skills and design it tight, you won't rip it off...

    All of that other stuff will limit flexability and won't be as effective.
    X2

    After shearing the upper threaded shank (bushing style rod end) mounted to the axle I'm switching to spherical rod ends like this.http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1626.html
    1974 CJ5-The BarnBurner

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  5. #2225
    Flyin' the Hindenburg 2.0 DRAGOONRANCH's Avatar
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    Another for the anti-wrap bar. Mine work great, and the one up front that we were worried about at first (and everyone still says it is not supposed to work like that, yet it does...) does a great job and hasn't limited flex at all from what I can tell.
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  6. #2226
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    I've never had noticable axle wrap issues on either axle. My rear springs are stock packs with a few leafs removed, but they still have a bit of arch to them at ride height. My fronts have a 2" short add-a-leaf and have very little arch at ride height. The front has pinion angle issues though, due to the shackle being on the rear side of the spring and the height relationship of the front and rear hangers.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  7. #2227
    ill be your pickup man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharpe View Post
    I've never had noticable axle wrap issues on either axle. My rear springs are stock packs with a few leafs removed, but they still have a bit of arch to them at ride height. My fronts have a 2" short add-a-leaf and have very little arch at ride height. The front has pinion angle issues though, due to the shackle being on the rear side of the spring and the height relationship of the front and rear hangers.
    Why not shims between the leaf and spring pad? These made my pinion angle perfect.
    92 YJ
    04 F-150 4x4
    11 F-250 4x4

  8. #2228
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    I have 7 degree shims. At ride heights its ok but when the passenger side droops, **** gets crazy.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  9. #2229
    Teaching America's youth RCcola55's Avatar
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    My bronco had the same issue in combination to bad wrap in the front. Take a look at Cook's trac bar, even though he may not wheel it often he does have a good amount of torque, big tires, lots of traction, combine that with a love of burnouts, it goes to so using the right materials and good construction you shouldnt have an issue with a antiwrap bar
    Ryan Clarke
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  10. #2230
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    I like the mil wrap so you are trying to bend 2 leafs instead of one, toyotas have this, you don't see bent leaf springs on toyotas. Keep the little clip things so the springs stay lined up under eachother. You still need to have an antiwrap bar that doesn't rip off, I would put bushings at the axle and heim at the shackle. A lot of work to keep leaf springs.

  11. #2231
    True Hollywood Stry
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    Are the edelbrock small block chevy tbi intakes worth a damn assuming you are using a stock cam and throttle body?
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  12. #2232
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stx4wheeler View Post
    Are the edelbrock small block chevy tbi intakes worth a damn assuming you are using a stock cam and throttle body?
    Since your Chevy TBI does not have a mass air sensor, I would say that without a chip or something that edelbrock intake would not do crap for you.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
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  13. #2233
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Are super duty 60s worth a damn? Found a matching f/r pair for 900.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  14. #2234
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparling View Post
    Are super duty 60s worth a damn? Found a matching f/r pair for 900.
    Super duty 60's have ball joints, instead of king pins. I would say for 900 that is not a good deal. My opinion, a ball joint 60 is worth about $600 to $700, if complete.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  15. #2235
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    The 05+ ones have 35 spline stubs, and they're set up for the right kind of suspension.

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