yeah.
yeah.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Sanding and cleaning. They are equally important.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
That's more what I was asking.Originally Posted by Sharpe
whatnot isn't very specific.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Pressure wash the **** out of it. Degrease the **** out of it. Pressure wash again. Scuff the **** out of it with a red scotchbrite or 220 paper. Pressure wash again, degrease again. Clean once, twice, three more times with acetone or thinner. Tape off what you don't want it on. Wear gloves, old shoes and a tyvek suit, the stuff sticks to skin forever. Very light first coat, let it sit for an hour or two. Then pile on two more coats with a few hrs between each.
They all are about the same quality, just different textures. If your time is worth something then go give an extra hundo to Brett at Texas truck riggins and get it done the right way!
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
+1 for Texas truck riggins
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
Nice, I may just have to do that. I don't want it to look ****ty.
So I'm pulling out of my driveway in Arlington and the check engine light comes on. Waited 'til I got back to check it out. Code didn't apply to my vehicle, so I just cleared it and went about my business. It was in the O2 sensor ballpark, but like I said, it didn't apply. It hasn't come back on after a few days of driving, so am I in the clear?
What do you mean it didnt apply?
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
don't go with the description they give you, lookup the number that corresponds to your code and look it up. I have had the same problem with Autozone the scanner came up with a Ford code when they scanned the Chevy.
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
This is my programmer/code reader, so it should give chrysler codes.
But the interwebs say Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 3. It should come back on if something is legitimately wrong though, right? I mean, it's an O2 sensor so either way I'll get to it when I get to it, but still...
Last edited by MR.ZAP; 01-30-2013 at 07:20 PM.
This definitely applies to you. If it stays off I wouldn't worry about it but if it comes back on or you notice it running rough or worse gas mileage then I would worry about it.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
It certainly doesn't run rough and I get **** gas mileage either way so it's kinda hard to tell. I feel like I have been getting meh gas mileage as of late, but like I said, that doesn't mean much.
I sure as hell hope that the cats aren't burning out, I only have about 63,500 miles on that thing.
Last edited by MR.ZAP; 01-30-2013 at 09:01 PM.
Any 2stroke gurus?
I have a dirt bike (rm250 1999) that has plenty of power in gears 2-5 but in first it sputters through the power-band. I would say 80% of the time it sputters and the other 20% it rips right through the gears. This happens when the bike is warm and I've already checked the reed valves which look good to me.
Thanks in advance
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
I assume you have checked for debris in the carb/tank? also is your fuel/oil mix exact or close?
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