Have not torn apart the carb yet and the line going to the car flows freely. I'm going to assume it's an issue with the carb just seemed funny that it only happens in first gear. Not sure how exact my fuel mix is, I just go buy the bottleOriginally Posted by bcolman
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
I have deleted those heater resistance codes before. Sometimes they come back and I'll replace the indicated O2 sensor or cats. They don't come back. Cats weren't cheap, but all four on the F150 bit the dust. One bank around 160, the other around 200k
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
Mine was coming on every time I got gas from this one station in bryan, manual says it can happen. Never really stressed it because it wasn't consistent.
Good to know.
Edit: Well weirdly enough, the light came back on today immediately after filling up at Sam's. I'm extremely confused.
Edit 2: So last night I pulled the fuel pump fuse for about 30 minutes to reset the PCM, to which it responded with throwing three more codes that also aren't for my Jeep until I cleared them and reset my speedo (I was going 0 mph everywhere). I'm hoping that the PCM was just being retarded and my next fillup will definitely be somewhere other than Sam's. The original code it was giving me was for bank 1 sensor 3, but I don't have but two sensors per side...
Last edited by MR.ZAP; 02-03-2013 at 01:48 PM.
Any other ideas?
-6 or -8 AN fittings for the transmission cooler lines on my truck? Which would be better?
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
-8 would be better less restriction
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
Jic is cheaper and Napa has the fittings in stock. The only problem is rheyre not red and blue.
JIC is steel fittings right?
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
JIC and AN are not identical. There are minor differences in tolerances in the root the thread. For your application it won't matter AN or JIC.
Do you already have the cooler? if not it doesn't matter if the fitting are in stock or not order them when you order the cooler and they are probably cheaper than buying fittings from NAPA
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
It's not super high pressure either. You can just use barbs and hose clamps
Using the stock cooler, adding an inline filter on the cooler and doing new lines instead of trying to flare the stock steel lines. Absolutely not using hose barbs and bulk hose. My torque converter is trashed and when I put the new one in I don't want the clutch material to stay in the transmission.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
http://www.dieselsite.com/1999-20037...tersystem.aspx you might have seen this but see if you can copy
Changing ball joints on a 2wd torsion arm truck (2006 duramax). . . .
Do I have to unload the torsion arm before seperating the knuckle from the control arms?
I am pretty sure they are preloaded, so yes.
My bitch better have my money...
Through rain, sleet, or snow...
My whore better have my money...
Not half, not some, but all my cash...
'Cause if she don't,
I'm gonna put my foot in her ass.
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