I don't think it matters. Don't they replace the same parts on a rebuild if you do it now or wait for it to stop working?Originally Posted by texasxj
I don't think it matters. Don't they replace the same parts on a rebuild if you do it now or wait for it to stop working?
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Polk Atrium 45: Seems like the best value on upper-end outdoor speakers. Opinions?
How hot is too hot for a shock? F150 has seemed quite loose in the rear lately around the jobsite and alot loose on a dirt road yesterday. Shocks are Bilstein 5100 series with maybe 80k miles on them. No signs of leaking, but were quite warm to the touch near the top of the housing, close to where the cylinder goes in. Seems to be acting this way since I had some weight on the assend pullingthe ZJ to Spring.
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
When the rear end's loose, the truck is fast. Loose is fast and on the edge of out of control!
BDR
80k is enough to replace shocks in my opinion.
edit: esp. considering how much towing and offroad use that truck has seen.
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
a bilstein will feel hotter due to being a monotube, if it is hot it is doing it's job. if there is any oil around the top seal or it has lost its nitrogen it could need replacing but I have seen bilstein oem shocks go way further than 80k.
Anyone in CS have the pipe tap for installing hydro-assist lines on a steering box? Is it just 1/2" that most people use?
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
i have one, but if i remember correctly you might need two because you have to cut one down since the place you tap is not deep enough for the tap
we have a full one and a modified one that you need so you can get complete threads, the uncut one doesn't taper fully before the tap botoms out so you really need 2. i have both, well ones brians and ones mine but whatever
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
So does that mean I have to suck both your dicks to use them or what?
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Thanks for the new Signature!
just come and get them
noice!Thanks for the new Signature!
My bitch better have my money...
Through rain, sleet, or snow...
My whore better have my money...
Not half, not some, but all my cash...
'Cause if she don't,
I'm gonna put my foot in her ass.
followup on this:220 extension cords/adapters. The picture shows what I'm trying to do, and I think all I have to do is make sure the neutrals/grounds match up but want to make sure.
My stove outlet is the only 220 in the house for now. It's that goofy 50A NEMA turkey-foot looking plug and I want to plug my extension cord into it and have the other end standard dryer-plug style. Can I just match the round prong on the dryer plug end to the middle prong on the turkey foot end and I'm good to go? My only worry is that the descriptions keep referring to the round prong on the dryer style as Ground and the middle prong on the NEMA style as Neutral.
The next conversion is to go from dryer plug to 20A NEMA but I am pretty sure that's easier...the round ones are both ground, other prongs are each a leg of hot.
And since my extension cord has 4 wires in it, I would want to double the neutral/ground, right?
Anything else to worry about?
edit: going from NEMA 10-50 range outlet (2 hots and neutral) to NEMA 6-50 (2 hots and ground) to Nema 6-20 (2 hots and ground)
Didn't run an extra ground, and everything works as I had hoped. Made a pigtail from the compressor NEMA 6-20 to the standard smileyface NEMA 6-50 on the female end of my extension cord, and put a NEMA 10-50 male on the other end, connected hot to hot and doubled up the ground/neutral. Motor spins, compressor compresses, the Rocket compressor is a bad dude. Think I should be able to run any 220 accessory like this but since my welder is 110 I shouldn't have to.
It is like a hopping feeling in the rear of the truck when driving on a loose or graded road. I guess it could be the springs. I would just say **** it, but my CO trip is coming up and its going to be seeing plenty of rough roads.
I guess pulling them off and seeing if I can compress them easily is what I should do. Damn apartment living.
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
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