He's not talking about max lift...he's talking about .050" lift. Unless you have a cam that has .050" max lift.
He's not talking about max lift...he's talking about .050" lift. Unless you have a cam that has .050" max lift.
BDR
Not to be an ass, and some people may disagree, but I think you're putting the cart before the horse.
I say build whatever you're going to get and gain some more mechanical experience. After it's done then mess with another engine, but in the meantime you can still drive it.
1988 Blazer...RIP
yes it does the closer the duration at .050 to the advertized max duration is the ramp speed. for ex. take a cam with 290 degrees of duration and 286 degrees duratation at .050. lift it has a much higher ramp rate than the same 290 degrees max duration cam with only 244 degrees at .050 lift. it is the difference between the two that makes the ramp rate.
i see where you are coming from, but i think you are putting too much stock in the duration at .050 numbers. it is just a standardized way to measure duration since you cant measure the infinitely small lift at the actual start point. yes, it does reflect a higher ramp rate but it doesnt accurately describe the cam profile.
when running hydro-assist do people still use balljoint style tie rod ends, or does everyone upgrade to heim joints?
I'm keeping my TRE's.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
TRE's worked well with me with hyrdro assist and work great with full hydro.
the do like to flop around alot if you don't have the ram perfectly inline with the tie rod
Originally Posted by afroman006
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
im using tre's with no problems yet
John was wrong in how he stated that. John does't read HotRod, HotRod read him.
ED!!! GET IN HERE!!
My bitch better have my money...
Through rain, sleet, or snow...
My whore better have my money...
Not half, not some, but all my cash...
'Cause if she don't,
I'm gonna put my foot in her ass.
Has anyone ever used the Stage 8 X-Lock hardware instead of the standard lock nuts for a D60? I always seem to break the little nipple off of the inner nut and wanted something a little better.
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
I have a set of hy/crossover arms for a 44 mounted that were drilled for heims. i was thinking of going with tre's. does anyone have or where do i get a reamer or should i just go with heims. its for the j10. gonna be locked with hydro assist and sprung over application. i already have some tre's but would have to buy heims, inserts etc if i went that route
Last edited by colman; 11-03-2009 at 04:22 PM.
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
if there any thing like there other products their probably a biatch to install
holy grammar fail!thank god cox is back
1988 Blazer...RIP
tryin' to draw trusses and post is not one of my strength's. I'll try harder next time just 4 u doug
system overload. i wasn't aware they made dice with there, their, they're on them.
trusses are just a bunch of triangles. what's so hard about that?
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