Originally Posted by tommy53002
keep going, you'll get to a reasonable number eventually.
keep going, you'll get to a reasonable number eventually.
yup. where the hell did you see $800 4:1 kit? I vote 231 doubler
There is no such thing as a 23 spline t18 with a round pattern made before 1980. so one from a CJ WOULD NOT WORK. unless you changed/bought an adapter. or run a scout D300.
and a J-series truck would have like a 1" spacer for the bell housing (must be from a truck equipped with a 258 6 cyl) so... whoop-de-****. it would be bolt in minus altering the crossmember. and since your stretching it anyways that minute difference wouldn't matter.
3.52 => 6.32 = ~44% increase
2.62 => 4 = ~34% increase
or collect parts to run a bastardized 435. Dodge case + ford input + $20 pilot bearing.
or swap from a t-176 to a ford NP435(that came with a np208) and buy a new $200 input shaft from JB, advance adapter, etc.
or scour pirate for a used t-case.
the only way to get a trans swap done cheaply is to buy whole vehicles and part them out which takes time and space. if you do it right you get paid to get the parts.
Last edited by colman; 03-25-2010 at 01:36 PM.
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
anyone know the distance from the middle of the spring pad to the wheel mounting surface on a 88.5+ ford D60?
Teraflex 4 to 1 kit is listed at 988.99 on their website. I am waiting on a quote on pirate for one but I imagine it will not be as low as JB converstion's.yup. where the hell did you see $800 4:1 kit? I vote 231 doubler
Would any adapters be needed to run a 231 doubler (box4rox)? Its priced at $499 + a 231 + getting it tig welded + ??? = probably too much. but i guess thats a maybe.
your running a cj5 right, unless your planning on adding at least 6 inches to the rear don't plan on a doubler, rear dshaft is to short
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
My rear stretch will be 8-10 inches.
jb conversion is the ONLY good d-300 4:1 kit, the teraflex gears are two piece gears and a lot of people have problems with them breaking. read this . . .http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/
also, yes the 4:1 kit is pretty affordable, however, I have wanted to do the 4:1 gears for a while but keep putting it off because it only makes sense that while you have the entire case apart you do the 32 spline input and outputs as well. With both outputs and gears it is about 1200 (not including machining costs for the output flange). having the 4:1 gears adds a lot of stress on the stock f/r outputs.
here is my 435 swap
http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php...&postcount=389
http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php...&postcount=390
http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php...&postcount=393
it took me from 32:1 to 65:1, now at 85:1 with the 4.88s.
Cost run down. . .
NP435=$75
Pilot Bushing=$10
Gear oil=$25
Shifter Boots=$40
Adapter=$560
NP435 Small Parts Kit/Seal Kit=$40
Total=$750
Re-sell
T-176=$200
Clocking Kit=$175
Total=$375
Spent=$375 net
It looks like 4 to 1 is the way I will be going. Im not too worried about the output shaft, I will not be running over a 35-36 inch tire for a while. Isnt colman running 4 to 1 in his dana 300? Is he running the shaft upgrade? has he had any problems?
noooo, don't do it!
the transmission swap is the best way to fix the gearing. You don't want 4:1 when you're hauling ass down the access roads at the trail, and shifting dana cases from low to high after beating on them a while isn't always the easiest thing to do.
...
ya , colman has the 4:1 (and the teraflex ones at that) without the output upgrades but I don't think he has put too many hours on it. Coop is running the jbconversion stuff and did the 32 spline outputs front and rear and the clock at the same time. Like I said I'm waiting to build my d-300 completely the first time. But it's your jeep if you don't think you'll beat on it hard enough to break it, no one knows better than you.
do you really think gearing will be that bad with the 4 to 1 given I only have 3.54 gears at the axle?
What transmission then? Auto or manual? I have heard alot of people say they will never go back to a manual after switching to a auto. I am fairly clueless when it comes to auto but i have heard people talk about torque multiplication?? I have pleanty of time to figure this out and find something. I wont be doing the swap untill this summer. Thanks for the help so far.
Your just full of good advice!
swapped it all over. everything is identical. using a '96 NP241C and a '99 NP231J.
instead of just input shafts, i swapped the planetary and all. appearently there is a slight difference in the way the gears were cut sometime in '95. so use 94 and down cases or 96 and up cases.
anyone need a 23 spline NP241?
ill even post pics later with comparison shots between the two.
i do believe that's what 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear are for.
and to answer your question about box4rocks. yeah, its $499 + a donor case. it was cheaper for me to go that route, and i get a lower and better selection of gears since i will be using a 700R4. then you always have the option of upgrading the D300 or NP231(i think) to 4:1 for silly and/or stupid low.
i was able to get my cases for cheap/free though.
i have had both auto and manual on the trail... auto is by far easier... manual is better though... depends on how bad you suck at stick i guess
Jonathan Tate
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2010 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 MegaCab
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