Page 1 of 11 1 2 3 4 5 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 151

Thread: The Patrol - Phase II

  1. #1
    sideways again... redcagepatrol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    H-TOWN
    Posts
    4,270

    The Patrol - Phase II

    So, it's been six years since I built the Patrol and it's time for a "refresher"

    Here is the build thread (from 2002), I finished the truck on 3-4-2003... http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.p...ghlight=patrol

    Here are the build pictures:
    http://offroadrepublic.com/gallery2/...2_itemId=20758

    Since I built it the only major change that I did was the rear suspension 4-link geometry and set up.

    What have I broken?
    I've had plenty of steering issues: I started off with ram assist, then thought that it would work with just the ram, then broke the ram, then broke several iterations of ram mounts etc... It's been working pretty good since I fixed it at a shop in CO after breaking it on the Independence Trail in Penrose.

    On the front axle, I broke one inner shaft (stock) and then switched to 4340 stuff. I also broke the "Lincoln" locker in the front third once

    On the rear axle, I've broken at least 3 R&P's, two welded spider gears, and the "Lincoln" lock welds once.

    I've broken about three rear driveshafts (the CV) and I broke the weld on the front once. I've always carried spare shafts so not a big deal.

    I've also broken one T-Case rear output shaft (replaced back with stock)

    The Goals:
    1) change rear axle to something stronger (Ford 9)
    2) Spend as little money as possible
    3) lighten the rig
    4) plan for bigger tires

    How will I meet these goals?
    1) change the rear axle to a Ford 9 Spidertrax housing.
    2) lose weight by cutting off rear frame and switching to air shocks from coils, shocks, and frame
    3) change the rear to some type of "skins"
    4) possibly drop the front hood-line for better vision - do something with front fenders (the driver side looks like crap)

    We'll start with "Before" pictures
    Attached Images Attached Images        
    Scott, FTAC '99
    '62 Nissan Patrol 4-seat Twisted Customs Buggy
    '89 "CJ-7" - Her trail rig
    '05 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD - her daily driver...
    '08 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 6.7 Diesel 4x4
    scott.schubring@williams.com

    The office sucks - I wanna go wheeling!

  2. #2
    sideways again... redcagepatrol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    H-TOWN
    Posts
    4,270
    "As is" Pictures
    Attached Images Attached Images          
    Scott, FTAC '99
    '62 Nissan Patrol 4-seat Twisted Customs Buggy
    '89 "CJ-7" - Her trail rig
    '05 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD - her daily driver...
    '08 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 6.7 Diesel 4x4
    scott.schubring@williams.com

    The office sucks - I wanna go wheeling!

  3. #3
    sideways again... redcagepatrol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    H-TOWN
    Posts
    4,270
    last night pics - and some new parts
    Attached Images Attached Images          
    Scott, FTAC '99
    '62 Nissan Patrol 4-seat Twisted Customs Buggy
    '89 "CJ-7" - Her trail rig
    '05 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD - her daily driver...
    '08 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 6.7 Diesel 4x4
    scott.schubring@williams.com

    The office sucks - I wanna go wheeling!

  4. #4
    sideways again... redcagepatrol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    H-TOWN
    Posts
    4,270
    I'm not sure I'll get anything done tonight, but I hope to get the rear axle out pretty soon.

    Debating if I want to change the lower link material (go to exotic) any to help lighten it up - but that conflicts with the "stay cheap" rule...

    The 4 link that i've been running has a few problems
    1) it hit the gas tank on uptravel
    2) it hit the frame on up-travel (worked well for limiting uptravel)
    3) they hit each - other when flexed out (bending upper links slightly)

    I think I'll make some very slight adjustments to keep them from hitting each other - get rid of frame, and move the gas tank to fix the other problems.
    Attached Images Attached Images          
    Scott, FTAC '99
    '62 Nissan Patrol 4-seat Twisted Customs Buggy
    '89 "CJ-7" - Her trail rig
    '05 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD - her daily driver...
    '08 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 6.7 Diesel 4x4
    scott.schubring@williams.com

    The office sucks - I wanna go wheeling!

  5. #5
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    5,206
    uh oh, there's those crazy jackstands again!

  6. #6
    . J Cooper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Where you stay?
    Posts
    5,424
    that thing looked sweet when it was new


    now it looks sad

  7. #7
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    5,206
    I don't know crap about suspension set-ups but what is the advantage of crossing the links like that? why couldn't the links that attach to the pumkin be a little closer together where they attach to the frame and the outer ones on the axle tube run parallel w/ the frame?

    looking at the picture of the rear suspension what would happen if you shortened the links and swapped them and made the center ones mounts a little further apart?

  8. #8
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    5,206
    bad rendition...It would be like a rover three link. replace the heims on frame w/ a johnny joint or something? the middle I don't think is so critical. the middle on the axle end needs a lot of movement.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  9. #9
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    5,206
    oh crap, your drive shaft come out way back there...never mind.

  10. #10
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brazos County
    Posts
    5,711
    Food for thought. Don't air shocks and the fancy 9 housing also break the "cheap rule"? Are super duper titanium alloy links super expensive?
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  11. #11
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Tx
    Posts
    4,545
    Very cool!


    BDR

  12. #12
    Boost Junkie breckboarder55's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    CS
    Posts
    930
    Why don't you just cut the old fenders out and run some sheet metal to the tube?
    SHUT UP AND WHEEL

  13. #13
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    .
    Posts
    12,659
    Quote Originally Posted by redcagepatrol View Post
    The Goals:
    1) change rear axle to something stronger (Ford 9)
    2) Spend as little money as possible
    3) lighten the rig
    4) plan for bigger tires

    How will I meet these goals?
    1) change the rear axle to a Ford 9 Spidertrax housing.
    2) lose weight by cutting off rear frame and switching to air shocks from coils, shocks, and frame
    3) change the rear to some type of "skins"
    4) possibly drop the front hood-line for better vision - do something with front fenders (the driver side looks like crap)
    You silly engineers!
    I think aluminum lowers would be rad, but don't think the weight goal should be a reason for them since they're more or less unsprung. The ability of them to bounce back after bending may be a good reason to get them.

    grayson I think you're describing a single triangulated 4-link. What the difference between his current double triangulated 4-link and that is, I don't know. I think double triangulated has a little more redundancy in the design (panhard duties are shouldered by all 4 links rather than just the uppers in the single triangulated)
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  14. #14
    sideways again... redcagepatrol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    H-TOWN
    Posts
    4,270
    Quote Originally Posted by Seth View Post
    Food for thought. Don't air shocks and the fancy 9 housing also break the "cheap rule"? Are super duper titanium alloy links super expensive?
    a little, but planning for the future - they are "investments"
    Scott, FTAC '99
    '62 Nissan Patrol 4-seat Twisted Customs Buggy
    '89 "CJ-7" - Her trail rig
    '05 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD - her daily driver...
    '08 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 6.7 Diesel 4x4
    scott.schubring@williams.com

    The office sucks - I wanna go wheeling!

  15. #15
    sideways again... redcagepatrol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    H-TOWN
    Posts
    4,270
    Quote Originally Posted by Graystroke View Post
    I don't know crap about suspension set-ups but what is the advantage of crossing the links like that? why couldn't the links that attach to the pumkin be a little closer together where they attach to the frame and the outer ones on the axle tube run parallel w/ the frame?

    looking at the picture of the rear suspension what would happen if you shortened the links and swapped them and made the center ones mounts a little further apart?
    You'd have to study up on suspension performance - I can't explain it all right here. I can tell you that haveing lower links parallel to the frame SUCKS donky balls and gives you terrible rear steer. That's how I had it built the first time...
    Scott, FTAC '99
    '62 Nissan Patrol 4-seat Twisted Customs Buggy
    '89 "CJ-7" - Her trail rig
    '05 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD - her daily driver...
    '08 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 6.7 Diesel 4x4
    scott.schubring@williams.com

    The office sucks - I wanna go wheeling!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •