The Patrol - Phase II

[redcagepatrol]

So, it's been six years since I built the Patrol and it's time for a "refresher"

Here is the build thread (from 2002), I finished the truck on 3-4-2003... http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.p...ghlight=patrol

Here are the build pictures:
http://offroadrepublic.com/gallery2/...2_itemId=20758

Since I built it the only major change that I did was the rear suspension 4-link geometry and set up.

What have I broken?
I've had plenty of steering issues: I started off with ram assist, then thought that it would work with just the ram, then broke the ram, then broke several iterations of ram mounts etc... It's been working pretty good since I fixed it at a shop in CO after breaking it on the Independence Trail in Penrose.

On the front axle, I broke one inner shaft (stock) and then switched to 4340 stuff. I also broke the "Lincoln" locker in the front third once

On the rear axle, I've broken at least 3 R&P's, two welded spider gears, and the "Lincoln" lock welds once.

I've broken about three rear driveshafts (the CV) and I broke the weld on the front once. I've always carried spare shafts so not a big deal.

I've also broken one T-Case rear output shaft (replaced back with stock)

The Goals:
1) change rear axle to something stronger (Ford 9)
2) Spend as little money as possible
3) lighten the rig
4) plan for bigger tires

How will I meet these goals?
1) change the rear axle to a Ford 9 Spidertrax housing.
2) lose weight by cutting off rear frame and switching to air shocks from coils, shocks, and frame
3) change the rear to some type of "skins"
4) possibly drop the front hood-line for better vision - do something with front fenders (the driver side looks like crap)

We'll start with "Before" pictures

[redcagepatrol]

"As is" Pictures

[redcagepatrol]

last night pics - and some new parts

[redcagepatrol]

I'm not sure I'll get anything done tonight, but I hope to get the rear axle out pretty soon.

Debating if I want to change the lower link material (go to exotic) any to help lighten it up - but that conflicts with the "stay cheap" rule...

The 4 link that i've been running has a few problems
1) it hit the gas tank on uptravel
2) it hit the frame on up-travel (worked well for limiting uptravel)
3) they hit each - other when flexed out (bending upper links slightly)

I think I'll make some very slight adjustments to keep them from hitting each other - get rid of frame, and move the gas tank to fix the other problems.

[Graystroke]

uh oh, there's those crazy jackstands again!

[J Cooper]

that thing looked sweet when it was new


now it looks sad

[davido]

that thing looked sweet when it was new


now it looks sad

I thought the same thing until... holy ****, Scott was 15 just 6 years ago? (pic 3)


Should be cool. Maybe I'll follow suit.





Nah. But maybe I WILL mount my 5 year old shocks.

[Graystroke]

I don't know crap about suspension set-ups but what is the advantage of crossing the links like that? why couldn't the links that attach to the pumkin be a little closer together where they attach to the frame and the outer ones on the axle tube run parallel w/ the frame?

looking at the picture of the rear suspension what would happen if you shortened the links and swapped them and made the center ones mounts a little further apart?

[redcagepatrol]

I don't know crap about suspension set-ups but what is the advantage of crossing the links like that? why couldn't the links that attach to the pumkin be a little closer together where they attach to the frame and the outer ones on the axle tube run parallel w/ the frame?

looking at the picture of the rear suspension what would happen if you shortened the links and swapped them and made the center ones mounts a little further apart?

You'd have to study up on suspension performance - I can't explain it all right here. I can tell you that haveing lower links parallel to the frame SUCKS donky balls and gives you terrible rear steer. That's how I had it built the first time...

[Graystroke]

You'd have to study up on suspension performance - I can't explain it all right here. I can tell you that haveing lower links parallel to the frame SUCKS donky balls and gives you terrible rear steer. That's how I had it built the first time...

if you make the lowers really long wouldn't that negate a lot of the rear steer? longer ones would increase the radius of the swing.

rear steer is where it's at

[Graystroke]

bad rendition...It would be like a rover three link. replace the heims on frame w/ a johnny joint or something? the middle I don't think is so critical. the middle on the axle end needs a lot of movement.

[Graystroke]

oh crap, your drive shaft come out way back there...never mind.

[mudtoy67]

Very cool!

[Seth]

Food for thought. Don't air shocks and the fancy 9 housing also break the "cheap rule"? Are super duper titanium alloy links super expensive?

[redcagepatrol]

Food for thought. Don't air shocks and the fancy 9 housing also break the "cheap rule"? Are super duper titanium alloy links super expensive?

a little, but planning for the future - they are "investments"