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Thread: 1994 Land...uh...Cruiser?

  1. #46
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robertf03 View Post

    How do you get the felt seal on if its 1 piece? Does it stretch?

    Yes, you kind of "roll" them onto the knuckle ball first, then install the knuckle. After the knuckle is in place you just slide them up to the back of the knuckle and bolt on the split retaining plates.
    BDR

  2. #47
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    BDR

  3. #48
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graystroke View Post
    I'm gonna double check the axle grease thing b/c these joints are full time. what keeps it from leaking out once the heat up @ 80mph. I can see "packing" them in a part-time truck that is crawling along at 1 mph
    there is nothing inside the knuckle moving 80 mph when the car is moving 80 mph. presumably you would be going straight, so the balls, cage and bell wouldn't even be moving relative to each other. They are just rotating as a solid unit.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  4. #49
    Flyin' the Hindenburg 2.0 DRAGOONRANCH's Avatar
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    Would the three shafts be lined up perfectly straight, or would the center shaft not have some angle to it?
    Quote Originally Posted by Fredo View Post
    Ask your dad what it tastes like.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tyler View Post
    Tell Chris to get it up and I will do it.
    My bitch better have my money...
    Through rain, sleet, or snow...
    My whore better have my money...
    Not half, not some, but all my cash...
    'Cause if she don't,
    I'm gonna put my foot in her ass.

  5. #50
    Flyin' the Hindenburg 2.0 DRAGOONRANCH's Avatar
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    Like this.

    The blue being the axle shafts, the red being the CV's and the green being the upper and lower A frames.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Quote Originally Posted by Fredo View Post
    Ask your dad what it tastes like.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tyler View Post
    Tell Chris to get it up and I will do it.
    My bitch better have my money...
    Through rain, sleet, or snow...
    My whore better have my money...
    Not half, not some, but all my cash...
    'Cause if she don't,
    I'm gonna put my foot in her ass.

  6. #51
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    if your knuckle is set up correctly it's a straight line from the center of your wheel bearings to the center of your diff side gears. Even with the wheels turned or in your picture, nothing's really moving very fast, the balls in the joint are just kind of wiggling back and forth on the race.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  7. #52
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH View Post
    Like this.

    The blue being the axle shafts, the red being the CV's and the green being the upper and lower A frames.
    It's not IFS. It's just a straight axle toyota like the older pickups. Grayson's gay CV terms are confusing you.
    BDR

  8. #53
    Flyin' the Hindenburg 2.0 DRAGOONRANCH's Avatar
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    Yes, being a straight axle would be different. Damn you Grayson and your Gehyness!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Fredo View Post
    Ask your dad what it tastes like.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tyler View Post
    Tell Chris to get it up and I will do it.
    My bitch better have my money...
    Through rain, sleet, or snow...
    My whore better have my money...
    Not half, not some, but all my cash...
    'Cause if she don't,
    I'm gonna put my foot in her ass.

  9. #54
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudtoy67 View Post
    FSM calls for moly-fortified grease in the knuckles and birfs.

    Here is a FAQ for FZJ80 axle rebuilding. I didn't see the knuckle preload in there, but on the older models you should have 9-12lb pull at the end of the steering arm. This could be a good baseline. Unless the knuckle bearings are in bad shape the original shims should get you to the right place. Also make sure you tap on the steering arm as you are tightening the nuts. It's outlined in the faq, but I've heard it elsewhere about the steering arm binding and not seating properly in the knuckle.

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...build-faq.html
    sweet! that looks like a good read! thanks BDR!

  10. #55
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uglyota View Post
    there is nothing inside the knuckle moving 80 mph when the car is moving 80 mph. presumably you would be going straight, so the balls, cage and bell wouldn't even be moving relative to each other. They are just rotating as a solid unit.
    i know that I just worry about it getting the grease hot and then slinging it out w/ the centrifugal force.

    never mind on the grease vs. other stuff...looks like grease is the only way to go b/c anything else will leak out from what i've read on other forums. seals and knuckle are not good enough.

  11. #56
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudtoy67 View Post
    I know i bought some stuff. I got a pair of headlights and a pc of plastic for the column. thanks tho for the heads up.

  12. #57
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graystroke View Post
    i know that I just worry about it getting the grease hot and then slinging it out w/ the centrifugal force.

    never mind on the grease vs. other stuff...looks like grease is the only way to go b/c anything else will leak out from what i've read on other forums. seals and knuckle are not good enough.
    Oh ya, I forgot I learned that the hard way. My first FJ I got in high school. It hadn't been run in many years so I took it to auto shop and got it running. I completely rebuilt the brake system as well. Not long after I got it home I did a little more maintenance. I saw the plug on the top of the knuckle and said hey look a fill plug! So I put about a 1/2 qt of 90 wt in each knuckle. It was all on the ground by morning and I found myself redoing my front brakes. :homer:
    BDR

  13. #58
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
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    Ok couple of questions. went by the yards in Fort Worth and no used birfield for an 80. Called yota jims in CO and he thought he had one and quoted me $65 on a used one, I told him I would take both. He called back and his were non ABS. crap. I called the place Eric posted they have one. He quoted me $350 for a used one. I told he was way high on his price and he said the computers were already off and he would call me back tomorrow w/ a more accurate price. I'm not holding my breath.

    My plan was to get a new pass side birf and then swap sides w/ them so they would wear the other side. Read it somewhere... sounds like a good idea.
    Anybody have one? Are those cheap new ones worth a damn or am I better off getting a used one? I went by the dealer and they wanted $765 for one.

    Also want to do seals and and repack all the bearings etc. Who has the best rebuild kit...I don't necessarily need all new bearings...mainly just want all the seals, lock tabs, etc. Or am I better off piecing one together myself? Do yota guys use a gasket b/w the spindle and knuckle like it shows? drive flange? or do you just use permatex or something?

  14. #59
    Registered User robertf03's Avatar
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    gasket. there is an inner machined surface that the cv rides against. rtv is an unknown thickness.
    ...

  15. #60
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    RTV is your friend.
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
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