Looks good Frick!
explain? i dont get what your asking?Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
Looks good Frick!
explain? i dont get what your asking?
If, I can't get a factory crossmember to work I would like to know what angle the factory chevy drivetrain was set at ie 5 degrees or 10 degrees etc, so that I can have my drivetrain setting the same degree as the factory even though I will have a new crossmember. I am possibly over thinking this.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
I just set everything to be above the bottom of the frame rails (i.e. flat belly). You have CV's and shafts that are over 2 feet long, it doesnt really matter.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Im going with the latter. with a dedicated trial truck, why does it matter? it will always be off camber unless its sitting on the trailer.
cause he wants to do it right the first time.....
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
Tonight, I made the lower bearing retainer for the np 203, since the standard factory adapter doesn't cover the lower bearing cap.
Next, I moved on to replacing the 1979 crossmember with the 1985 and after crossmember that looks like the King Ranch running W made whoopie with Gumby and this crossmember was the offspring. This crossmember fixed the issue from yesterday with the gap between the trans and the trans crossmember. I am still not sure if I am going to modify this stock crossmember or make my own.
Then I moved on to trying to stab the doubler by myself, which was intersteing to say the least. This is the first time during the doubler process that I have been glad to have the Copperhead fab doubler truss on mydoubler. It made installing the doubler with one person a feasible task. My install was stopped due to the back of the np 205 hitting the cab floor. Needless to say tomorrow the seat will be coming out and so will the torch.
Last edited by stx4wheeler; 10-05-2010 at 11:19 PM.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
I would (and did) make a new crossmember. Its fairly easy but the doubler not being the flat-belly variety may complicate things.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Doubler installed!!! I had to make two or three cuts in the floor to clear the doubler, and still might do some more trimming or adjusting with my 3lb sledge. The drivetrain can problably go up another inch inside the frame rails so it will be only hanging down about and inch.
I also had to cut about half of the stock trans crossmember off to clear the copperhead fab doubler truss. Needless to say it will be going in the trash.
Now time to figure out the doubler skid/crossmember.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
Glad to see there is not a crushed Frick under that beast. What do you plan to do about the speedo cable hole?
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
Tonight, I swapped both sets of 35 spline spider gears into the two new 4.56 and up dana 60 carriers. I hope to get the gears set this weekend so that once the doubler skid/crossmember is done I can get it back on 4 wheels.
Months ago I found out that I could use my old spare shafts from big nasty's sterling 10.25 in my van dana 60 by swapping the side gears from a 60 front 35 SPL and turning down the shouldered seal surface on the sterling shafts. The sterling shafts are about a 1/4 inch shorter than the old 60 shafts, but there is still close to full engagement. This option was alot cheaper than buying aftermarket cut the fit shafts like most people with dana 60 rears have to do.
The old 60 rear shaft was about 1 1/4" with neck down going from the shaft to the splines which is typically where I have seen them fail. The sterling shafts are larger at the splines and neck down to the shaft. The sterling shaft is 1 1/2"at the smallest point.
Tomorrow is welding day for those newly installed spiders!!
Last edited by stx4wheeler; 10-18-2010 at 10:52 PM.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
WTF, everything I read and you all told me said I could move my front axle forward about four inches without having to go to the van box. I sure hope I don't run into these issues as below with my 2wd box and traditional high steer arms.
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=35643
Last edited by stx4wheeler; 10-19-2010 at 10:05 PM.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
brian moved his several inches forward. i don't remember exactly how many tho. i think it was four
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Yeah I understand the logistics of it I'm just pissed that now I have a tapped psc box and two brand new highsteer arms that are not what I need. Now I have to decide to not move my axle as far or buy all new ****, when I read that 4" or less was fine.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
It is "fine." It worked well enough for me for four years before I decided to change it.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
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