So I have decided on a parallel 4 link up front and a 4 link in the rear. I figure once I have it the entire suspension torn out i'll make it awesome.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893
so the shopping list includes
1 stick 2" 3/4 wall dom
2 foa coilovers
4 heims
1/4" plate
rear:
1 stick 2" 3/4 wall dom
8 heims
coils
shocks
1/4" plate
Originally Posted by JB
you just described 95% of this club that owns 3/4 ton trucks. And my comment was directed towards this club.
radius arms flex just fine. I'd keep the rear leaf spring and since the front already has a ghetto dropdown bracket I'd do homebrew radius arms with a homebrew frame mount and the stock 60 axle mount.
I don't think lack of flex is the vehicles limiting factor. Radius/leaf will lower the scrap yard odds too.
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How much longer do you have at A&M? How long are you going to be staying at your current place (ie. how long can the bronco be torn down and re-assembled correctly)? The reason I ask is that projects almost always take an a$$ load longer then expected and there is nothing worse then having to move or rush a project before it's correctly finished. Seems like a cool end product if you go ahead with the 4 links BUT how long is it reasonably doing to take you. I say add 3-4 months to whatever timeline you formulate just because of lack of motivation (for anyone in the middle of any project) and hold ups with potential problems and material shortages. Also, what trails have you wanted to do that you would think would only be possible with the proposed suspension? Clarke's old bronco, JB's bronc, Dave's FJ, Brian's K-20 have all bashed there way up every trail I have seen them point their rigs at and all with leafs (if i'm not mistaken). Just my two cents. Think long and hard before dumping time and money into an aborted project.
Last edited by 85cj7; 05-08-2011 at 10:09 PM.
are you going to have someone drill and tap the links for the Heims. If i were you i would go with 1.5 sch 40 sleeved w/ 2inch sch80
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
Go radius arms and chevy 56's in the rear and you will have more then enough flex and for a fraction of the cost. Also radius arms act as a sway bar thus helping streetability since you know damn will thats where this thing will spend most of its time.
The parallel 4-link has crappy ground clearance and cost a **** load, also no need for coilovers, get a set of deaver coils and bilstien shocks and you will be amazed. As for the rear 4-link, I think and you know as well you are getting way in over your head, just do a 2.5in chevy leaf spring swap that you can build your own pack and it will flex more then you can imagine, just add a traction bar. But most of all, remember its not all about flex and what you read on the web, stay inside your means and most of all your fabrication abilities and save yourself a huge headache and risk trashing your baby, ask me how I know..
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
I'm going to make radius arms from 2x4 rectangular tube. The reason I am doing this is because 2" 3/4 wall dom is almost $10/foot. If I double up the tubes like the aftermarket arms do, it would be over $60 per arm before heims. The Dom arms may look better but bending the tube would be really hard and I would probably **** up at least $60 worth of tube before finishing them. Building the Rectangular tube arms would be simple compared to the tube. I think the Rectangular tube will take more abuse than the dom arms too.
As far as springs go, i'm going to order the 4" superflex coils from jbg and use one of my existing shocks per side until i can afford some 5100's.
For the rear, I'm going to do a shackle flip and take a couple leafs out of my superlift pack and use my existing shocks.
I found a rear axle for it. Funny story actually, I called the guy and he said he sold the front to another guy a couple weeks ago. Turns out he sold my front axle to the guy who I bought it from for $50 more than I bought it for. He wants $200 for the rear. At first I though it was too high, but after calling around, $200 was half the price of everyone else.
How much do you think the rectangular tube is going to cost?
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
Quite a bit but there's no bending heavy wall DOM involved.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Yeah, just cutting stuff at exact angles and then welding it back together at the angle you want....
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
I know, but that's tumtums problem. I would assume that making a template to use with the plasma wouldn't be terribly difficult.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
We do have access to the stuff to do this with, none of us have access to any bender capable of doing 3/4 wall DOM
"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
"It's not cheating if you pay for it"
think about it, 200 for a disc brake axle that isn't 30 yrs old.... not bad
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
it's $10 per foot too, but I'm only using 3 feet per side compared to 6 for the dom.
tummy, do something out of plate/sheet metal like you did your winch fairlead mount.
chopped up rectangle tube is pretty ghetto IMO. Something like this would be nice.
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