Page 1 of 42 1 2 3 4 5 11 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 620

Thread: '93 F-150 build

  1. #1
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    2,782

    '93 F-150 build

    I have a '93 F-150 4x4 that i want to build up. Right now, my truck is stock height with 33" BFG all terrains. My end goal is about 6 inches of lift with lots of suspension travel. I'm going to try to do a SAS this summer with a D44 from a 70's f-series and keep it coil springs up front. For the rear I've heard of flipping the rear shackle or replacing the rear shackle with another front shackle. I'm pretty new to the whole offroad community so i need help deciding what the best route would be to get lots of travel from the set up.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  2. #2
    Come and Take it BroncoJo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    6,039
    probably something like this but not so tall: http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9676

    Ideally something like this: http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...ighlight=swamp

    These would be ideal axle's for a budget, but this is a "how not to build something" Thread : http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9672


    Basically the best advice is to read through many different build threads and then decide how you want to start your build.

    Oh and search noob
    Born to Kill

    Quote Originally Posted by RCcola55 View Post
    I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!

  3. #3
    True Hollywood Stry
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    somewhere in texas
    Posts
    4,821
    Questions to ask yourself before this build starts

    1. Is it a daily driver

    2. What kind of terrain are you planning on doing

    3. What size tire do you wanna run.

    4. Do you really need an sas. I think way to many people jump on the sas bandwagon just because they read something on fullsize bronco, when they probably have been better off staying with ttb. Krazykarl on here has done stuff to ttb that would make Tommy the intern engineer at ford gawk at the awesomeness of his lunch time creation. Also you can drop a lot of money into a Dana 44 sas and at the end of a day it is still a Dana 44.

    5. The rear shackle hanger swap is a good swap but after driving both trucks with a shackle flip vs a rear lift spring pack. The lift pack is much better as far as driveablity(sp). I personally think that a 4 inch suspension on some 35's would work really well. Good luck with your build and welcome to the club.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  4. #4
    Come and Take it BroncoJo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    6,039
    FSB does have some good information, if you can weed out the bull****. For the TTB lifts checkout their broncospeed sub-forum, most of that may be overkill but still good to know.

    http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...t=96138&page=5
    Born to Kill

    Quote Originally Posted by RCcola55 View Post
    I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!

  5. #5
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Krazy Krosby
    Posts
    4,169
    I had a '96 Bronco with a Rough Country 3" front suspension, rear block lift. You can look at the Krew Kab Klogger build thread. The Klogger started as a 6" front superlift coils and 6" blocks in the back. I have switched to a shackle flip.

    Your '93 F-150 is a great truck. Ford really had the fuel injection thing down with that truck. They are simple, you can work on them, it is not uncommon to get 300k out of that truck. Other than the wind noise in the cab and lack of an air bag, it is a truck that can compete with the new ones.

    I daily drove the Bronco, I went all over with a 3" lift. If this is to be a dailt driver I would stop around 3 or 4 inches of lift. If you leave the front open (unlocked) the TTB will hold up to 35's easily. BDR had a '95 F-150 that spent it's entire life on 36's or 35's with little issue.

    The blocks in the rear are cheap, I think I still have mine if you want them, but I would say the shackle flip is much better than the blocks. For a truck that will see some towing, the lifted leaf springs are probably the way to go.

    One more note on TTB, you can get spare parts for almost free. Talk to Mayfield about the cost of straight axle parts.
    Last edited by KrazyKarl02; 02-06-2010 at 12:25 AM.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  6. #6
    Rock and Roll AggieTJ2007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Headed back to the Big D
    Posts
    6,182
    I agree i wouldn't waste the money on a Dana 44 swap I would keep the TTB until you are ready to swap a Dana 60. The 60 is going to cost a little more money but if you really get into wheeling it you will find out that you want/ need a 60. Until that point I think that that TTB will hold up just fine

    if it is your DD and you really want to wheel it on moderate to hard trails be prepared to trash the bed/ build some sort of flat bed like cooks and a nice front bumper that has some good protection for the lights and fenders. Other than that go for it
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    So driving by brail is why your jeep looks the way it does eh?

  7. #7
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Krazy Krosby
    Posts
    4,169
    Quote Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007 View Post
    I agree i wouldn't waste the money on a Dana 44 swap I would keep the TTB until you are ready to swap a Dana 60. The 60 is going to cost a little more money but if you really get into wheeling it you will find out that you want/ need a 60. Until that point I think that that TTB will hold up just fine
    Honestly, here comes the pot calling the kettle black. If you have a nice truck, I would not put a 60 in it. The trails you need for a 60 will destroy a full size. Check out the younger Colman's rig. Other than WilliamACE, everyone in this club who swaps a 60 into their full size truck ends up killing body panels.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  8. #8
    Flyin' the Hindenburg 2.0 DRAGOONRANCH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    DAAAnngerrr Zone!
    Posts
    15,003
    Hey, my front fenders only have MINOR dings in them...
    Quote Originally Posted by Fredo View Post
    Ask your dad what it tastes like.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tyler View Post
    Tell Chris to get it up and I will do it.
    My bitch better have my money...
    Through rain, sleet, or snow...
    My whore better have my money...
    Not half, not some, but all my cash...
    'Cause if she don't,
    I'm gonna put my foot in her ass.

  9. #9
    lowballing someone
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Houstonish
    Posts
    3,517
    will has a 44
    Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come

  10. #10
    Rock and Roll AggieTJ2007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Headed back to the Big D
    Posts
    6,182
    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02 View Post
    Honestly, here comes the pot calling the kettle black. If you have a nice truck, I would not put a 60 in it. The trails you need for a 60 will destroy a full size. Check out the younger Colman's rig. Other than WilliamACE, everyone in this club who swaps a 60 into their full size truck ends up killing body panels.
    That is what I was trying to get at. From watching you and your TTB I would assume that everything else that you wouldn't need a 60 for the TTB should work fine
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    So driving by brail is why your jeep looks the way it does eh?

  11. #11
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    2,782
    So from what i am hearing, it would be better for a person like me (who uses the truck as a daily driver, for now at least) to keep the ttb and do a few mods to reinforce it and increase travel. Sound right? What can i do to the rear to increase travel? I don't want to tear up my truck as it's still in pretty good condition, even if I only paid 1k for it. I was looking at running 36 or 38 inch tires when all said and done. I don't really care about gas mileage because it already sucks at around 12 mpg overall with a 5.0. Somebody offered a dick cepek 4 inch lift kit for 300 for the front components, is this a worthwhile investment or should i look at getting a different set up?
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  12. #12
    Rock and Roll AggieTJ2007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Headed back to the Big D
    Posts
    6,182
    in the rear your leaf springs should be good, you could probably just benefit from some longer shocks and an antiwrap bar.

    with the anti wrap bar you could probably take a leaf out of your rear spring back to make it ride a litle softer and get some better flex as well
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    So driving by brail is why your jeep looks the way it does eh?

  13. #13
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Krazy Krosby
    Posts
    4,169
    Here is a 4" Rough Country Lift for $470 for reference, Rough country is not a "premium" company, but the kit does have all the stuff (shocks, drop down pitman arm, drop down radius arms, etc...)

    Is the dick cepek kit used? If so you would need to get shocks, not a huge investment, but an added cost.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  14. #14
    True Hollywood Stry
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    somewhere in texas
    Posts
    4,821
    The cepek kit is prolly clarke's. In the rear to much a 4in. Kit an add a leaf and a shackle hanger flip will make it set level in the rear. I wouldn't worry about crazy flex it is really not needed in a truck like you are building. The add a leaf and hanger flip will work fine and will help with spring wrap. The rear ford springs flex pretty good in stock form.

    I would also re think tire size. Your current axles will hold up nicely to 35's and you could still get away with stock gears. If going larger you are really taking chances and asking for breakage, and will require a gear change so that. Your truck won't be a dog around town and on the highway. Once again this is just my opinion that I have formed from my projects and experinces.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  15. #15
    Registered Eckert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    2,429
    ill start with this:

    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02 View Post
    I am guessing you broke the inner, inner shaft. You can replace the outer and middle shaft without removing the center section. But I am guessing you figured this out, If I were you, I would just do a straight axle swap, it is about the same amount of work...
    I think it has to do alot with your intentions on what you want to do. tire size is a big determining factor. 36-38 is a threshold.

    My vote is a low lift SAS on 35's.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •