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Thread: '93 F-150 build

  1. #451
    ill be your pickup man
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    I have a C6 or sale if you don't need OD
    92 YJ
    04 F-150 4x4
    11 F-250 4x4

  2. #452
    True Hollywood Stry
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    John see the 4 sale section I replied to you.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  3. #453
    ill be your pickup man
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    Quote Originally Posted by JB View Post
    I have a C6 or sale if you don't need OD
    Nevermind
    92 YJ
    04 F-150 4x4
    11 F-250 4x4

  4. #454
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BroncoJo View Post
    What happen to the 5-speed swap?
    I'm tired of chasing them. They are out there but it seems like every time I find one, I can't get to it fast enough and it's sold. I eventually want to swap to a 460, so I'll just do a 5 speed swap then.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  5. #455
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Anybody know if anything else would be required for a rebuild if I got this kit?

    http://racerxusa.com//product_info.p...products_id=55

    I'm also going to add a bigger cooler with new lines that sits in front of the radiator, an external cooler and a transmission temp gauge.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  6. #456
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    I just got my rebuild kit at the door. There are way more parts than I expected in the box. Anybody know an auto transmission shop that might charge me real little for them to use the three specialized tools you need for this transmission? I've read that they can be built but I'd rather have the right tool and get this done right.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  7. #457
    Come and Take it BroncoJo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparling View Post
    I just got my rebuild kit at the door. There are way more parts than I expected in the box. Anybody know an auto transmission shop that might charge me real little for them to use the three specialized tools you need for this transmission? I've read that they can be built but I'd rather have the right tool and get this done right.
    If you wanted it done right you should have had one shop do the whole thing.
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  8. #458
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Well I guess I didn't want it done right, because I didn't use any specialized tools.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  9. #459
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    http://towrigsandtrailers.com/forum/...read.php?t=131

    I'm thinking about going this route for disk brakes. Seems like it shouldn't be too hard. I'm going to start with a chevy caliper and print the diagram out and resize it so the holes are in the right place then the scale should be good.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  10. #460
    True Hollywood Stry
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    Drum brakes work pretty good on a 8-9k pound f-350. I bet they will work lots better on your 6-7k truck. Seriously you can buy alot of brake pads for 4-5 hundred bones. Also, lots of people bitch about how crappy the e-brake on the eldorado calipers works.

    I'm sure you know this as well, but you might end up needing to get a new/ adjustable proportioning valve as well.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  11. #461
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stx4wheeler View Post
    Drum brakes work pretty good on a 8-9k pound f-350. I bet they will work lots better on your 6-7k truck. Seriously you can buy alot of brake pads for 4-5 hundred bones. Also, lots of people bitch about how crappy the e-brake on the eldorado calipers works.

    I'm sure you know this as well, but you might end up needing to get a new/ adjustable proportioning valve as well.
    I'm not using eldorado calipers, I've read too much about them leaking a lot. It'll probably cost less than 200 for this, maybe 250. I've also read and heard, that disk brakes are the best way to go on a sterling.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  12. #462
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    If you are going to drive this on the street, you need to get it inspected. If you are going to get it inspected, you need an e-brake. Disk brakes work great and are easy but the e-brake situation is a pain in the ass. You can run a High Angle Driveline t-case e-brake but depending on what you already have, that could cost up to $500 (output flange, e-brake shiz, and driveshaft flange yoke). I would stick with drums unless you budget in a t-case e-brake.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  13. #463
    ill be your pickup man
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    Quote Originally Posted by stx4wheeler View Post
    Drum brakes work pretty good on a 8-9k pound f-350. I bet they will work lots better on your 6-7k truck. Seriously you can buy alot of brake pads for 4-5 hundred bones. Also, lots of people bitch about how crappy the e-brake on the eldorado calipers works.

    I'm sure you know this as well, but you might end up needing to get a new/ adjustable proportioning valve as well.
    My Sterling drums sucked and getting them wet or muddy made them not last long. Rear discs and the 1 ton booster was one of the best mods I have done. I bought the kit and am pretty sure I didnt spend near $500. Havent touched them since.

    On the flip side, Cook still has drums and says he has had few problems.

    E-brake is going to be your issue.
    92 YJ
    04 F-150 4x4
    11 F-250 4x4

  14. #464
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    The klogger has a sterling, it sees a lot of water/mud. It does not have the auto adjust stuff in it anymore. Every trip I go turn the starwheel with a screw driver and have no issues. I have had the same pads on there for about 3 years. (granted this equates to 200 miles of driving....)
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
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  15. #465
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharpe View Post
    If you are going to drive this on the street, you need to get it inspected. If you are going to get it inspected, you need an e-brake. Disk brakes work great and are easy but the e-brake situation is a pain in the ass. You can run a High Angle Driveline t-case e-brake but depending on what you already have, that could cost up to $500 (output flange, e-brake shiz, and driveshaft flange yoke). I would stick with drums unless you budget in a t-case e-brake.
    I'll get it inspected with the 8.8 then I have a year if I do it on time to figure out an e-brake. I have a line lock sitting in my tool box, I know you aren't supposed to use them for long periods, but would it suffice for an inspection or do you have to have a mechanical e-brake?
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

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