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Thread: '93 F-150 build

  1. #151
    Rock and Roll AggieTJ2007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    So driving by brail is why your jeep looks the way it does eh?

  2. #152

  3. #153
    Rock and Roll AggieTJ2007's Avatar
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    those are some pretty good deals plus you could rebuild your current trans and learn how to rebuild an automatic transmission
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    So driving by brail is why your jeep looks the way it does eh?

  4. #154
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    filter/fluid change? I had the e4od in my white truck rebuilt by oliver brothers, not cheap, so if you can avoid it anyway i would. John brown has a good trans guy if it comes down to it.
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  5. #155
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seth View Post
    filter/fluid change? I had the e4od in my white truck rebuilt by oliver brothers, not cheap, so if you can avoid it anyway i would. John brown has a good trans guy if it comes down to it.
    Had the filter and fluid replaced last fall. Old enough to need replacing? It has had about 3500 miles since.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  6. #156
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    prob not, but who knows. you did mention it is a high mile truck, any idea on the history of it? also, did they drain the torque converter also? might be worth draining it completely and refilling, making sure you run the right fluid, and throw in a bottle of lucas just for grins.
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  7. #157
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    Since it sounds like you're fully prepared to beat this thing into an unrecognizable wad, maybe put some trick shift in it? Oughta make those bands a little stickier
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  8. #158
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    I just put a full bottle of the lucas shift improver stuff in right before the trip last weekend. I bought the truck at a u-pull-it yard that was selling it as a "builder", but the only things i did to it were put a new pan/gasket/filter/fluid in for the transmission, and a few sensors with some new spark plugs. The reason for the new pan was because they picked my truck up with a forklift and FUBARed the original pan and it wouldn't let the transmission shift out of park. I know they did burnouts with it at the yard before i bought it because that's how they knew that the 4x4 was working. Otherwise I'm pretty sure that the PO used it as a business vehicle with lots of highway driving. There was a hands free setup installed and lots of wear on the drivers seat, makes me think a grossly overweight person owned it.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  9. #159
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007 View Post
    So basically, you can take a D50 TTB and it has a 9" carrier and you can use all D60 outer stuff? That seems like it would be pretty dang strong. Does D60 have the same bolt pattern as a Sterling axle? I'm thinking find a D50 TTB to strengthen up and use for the front and use a Sterling axle in the rear, put lockers in both and stay with about 35" tires, maybe 37's. That should hold up right?
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  10. #160
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    To tell you the truth i would make your truck run well before i started doing all of this stuff to the axles.

    1. fix trans
    2. fix electric ****
    3. lift
    4. tires

    Then do the axle stuff. You need to do things to make it work at the current level of modification before you add any more

  11. #161
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV View Post
    To tell you the truth i would make your truck run well before i started doing all of this stuff to the axles.

    1. fix trans
    2. fix electric ****
    3. lift
    4. tires

    Then do the axle stuff. You need to do things to make it work at the current level of modification before you add any more
    My truck runs fine, I just need to go get another starter solenoid, and I'm not doing this stuff right away, but it's nice to have a plan of where I want to eventually go, so if I see parts for cheap I can get them and also so I don't spend money on something only to go with something different later. I'm not worrying about axles for a while.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  12. #162
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparling View Post
    So basically, you can take a D50 TTB and it has a 9" carrier and you can use all D60 outer stuff? That seems like it would be pretty dang strong. Does D60 have the same bolt pattern as a Sterling axle? I'm thinking find a D50 TTB to strengthen up and use for the front and use a Sterling axle in the rear, put lockers in both and stay with about 35" tires, maybe 37's. That should hold up right?
    TTB Dana 50's will not "bolt up" in your truck. Most of them are leaf springs for one thing. There is the rare and odd TTB50 with coil springs, but the hinge points mount in different locations, so the frame is different. The link that you are looking at has an insane amount of work.

    My advice, put 35's or 36's on it. Leave the front open, I have beat the crap out of my TTB with 37's and I have never broken a shaft <knock on wood>. If you want to "lock" the rear, get a sterling.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  13. #163
    Sand Man Shaggy's Avatar
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    and dont ever put a locker in ttb... I broke a shaft everytime I wheeled with mine
    Jonathan Tate
    361.676.6466
    2010 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 MegaCab
    2004 Jeep TJ
    1992 Jeep YJ
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  14. #164
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Lift the TTB and leave it alone, gears or a locker will equal bad times.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  15. #165
    True Hollywood Stry
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    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

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