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Thread: The Kernal

  1. #1
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    The Kernal

    Named after my Dad's rank but not worthy of being called a colonel ***.

    It's my Dad's Jeep and I have to give it back to him when he gets back from germany, so all the mods have to go through him. Nothing extreme cause it still has to be my daily driver but i plan on wheeling it when the bronco is down for it's won ton swap.

    He already agreed to pay for a lift if I fix the rear axle. The truck was spun down an icy hill and slammed into a curb with the driver's side rear wheel. The wheel wobbles but you can't feel it when you're driving.

    so here it is



    06 wranger x
    31" goodyear wranger mt/r's

    Other stuff I have for it

    hard top
    soft top
    bikini top (x2)
    tonneu cover with bulkhead thingy
    Half doors

    Other than that it is all stock. It has 65,000 miles and it runs perfectly

    So first step is a 2"-3" lift on the cheap, He won't be willing to spend alot of money so maybe spring pucks or something used.

    Second will be a performance upgrade, it is really slow, maybe something that will also give a fuel mileage upgrade.

    Cheap Lifts?
    Performance/Mileage upgrade?
    Quote Originally Posted by Sharpe View Post
    F*ck off cj.

  2. #2
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    You might could fit 2 blowers under the hood for the ultimate performance!!!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQ7YWT6rX0o
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  3. #3
    Registered User uglyota's Avatar
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    Isn't that the same as Tate's jeep? You should buy him a beer and pick his brain...then do the exact opposite of whatever he says

    srsly though fix the rear axle (maybe just a rim?) and pretend it's a civic. Don't screw up your dad's car.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
    damnit... if everyone is leaving i want my original 15 back... i dont wanna be left with these tools

  4. #4
    Big Baller 85cj7's Avatar
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    http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ode=sus_tj_kit

    http://www.rockcrawler.com/techrepor...r_tj/index.asp
    you won't like the price of it though


    I actually agree with hippy on this one though, why modify it at all? It CAN wheel the way it is and drive down the road without any problems. Why spend time/money on something temporary?

  5. #5
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    already changed the rim.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sharpe View Post
    F*ck off cj.

  6. #6
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    He kinda already wants a small lift so he will keep that. I am thinking of selling one of the bikini tops and the tonneu cover to cover the costs.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sharpe View Post
    F*ck off cj.

  7. #7
    No progress... bburris's Avatar
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    Forgive the website that was published by an infant, but we've got pretty good prices on 2" spacer lifts with and without shocks.

    http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/97tjwran1sus.html

  8. #8
    Rock and Roll AggieTJ2007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bburris View Post
    Forgive the website that was published by an infant, but we've got pretty good prices on 2" spacer lifts with and without shocks.

    http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/97tjwran1sus.html
    I would definitely get parts and advice through Brett. If he is as cool as Fred he can get you pretty good deal on parts as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    So driving by brail is why your jeep looks the way it does eh?

  9. #9
    Boost Junkie breckboarder55's Avatar
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    There are a couple active members on here with TJs.

    There are NO worthwhile mods for fuel economy.
    Performance gains are not large enough to generate any significant power... Waste of money IMO.

    The edge trail jammer gains are disputable, with many people not seeing the same gains. But its $1000 for an air intake that will be more susceptible to sucking up water, and a bored stock throttle body with a larger plate... IIRC it does have a smoother flow to it, but it is only like 2-4mm larger than stock. So 1k dollars buys you a disputed 21hp... When people are swapping Dodge 5.2/5.9s and GM gen III/IV V-8s for a little over 2 grand... I know where I am going to spend my money when I want more power.

    Rustys stuff is mostly crap. its kinda like Harbor freight, some works some docent. Its all cheap.

    Lift crap:
    First off, do not buy your lift from Quadratec/4wheel parts, etc. If your not already on Pirate 4x4 or Jeep forums, join. Go to the vendor area suspension section, and look for threads with vendors advertising the lifts you want on sale. These vendors are much cheaper than the Quadratec/4wheel parts, and will compete with each other.

    I have 4 x 2.25" pucks in a box I will give you for $20 bucks. You will need to buy longer shocks and adjust your bump stops.

    I would not recommend a budget boost just because you can buy some springs for not too much more. (when buying new) I bought a BB and ended up replacing the pucks/stock springs for OME springs because the stock springs sagged. Replacement springs can be had relatively cheap, and can possibly give you a better ride, will offer more travel, etc.

    Rubicon Express makes some decent kits for the money. Stay away from pro-comp(specifically control arms), and other cheapos. Other recommended kits are BDS, OME, Currie, Clayton, and a couple of others.

    Anything over 3" will require a transfer-case drop or a 1" body lift and 1" motor mount lift, or a SYE and a drive shaft. Anything over 2.5" generally requires at least an adjustable rear track bar. A 1" body lift will also help you tuck your gas tank up higher, as well as your transfer-case.

    Most cheap lifts take short cuts when it comes to bushings, spring/shock quality etc. Stay away from control arms with poly bushings.

    Do you have a manual or an auto? Wrangler Xs came with the D35c, which will be fine on 31"s as long as your not an idiot.

    If your going to wheel it the first things I would say you should do is:

    Home made disconnects
    Rocker guards (fabricated, or purchased)
    Last edited by breckboarder55; 06-24-2010 at 01:26 PM.
    SHUT UP AND WHEEL

  10. #10
    No progress... bburris's Avatar
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    Another direction to go would be with some 2" Pro-Comp coils and some decent shocks to match. Pro-Comp gets a bad rap from a lot of people but their 2" coils seem to hold up well. Then you just match whatever shocks that come with most 2" puck lifts to their coils and you've got a decent lift that will ride well...

    Unless you take off the rear sway bar, then you'll get to have fun figuring out how to lift your rear wheels when making U-turns. One of my old roommates almost crapped himself when he felt it happen the first time so I just started taking quick turns through the HEB parking lot until he started to look pale.

  11. #11
    True Hollywood Stry
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    Quote Originally Posted by breckboarder55 View Post
    There are a couple active members on here with TJs.

    Wheel wobble is pretty common on TJ's, especially with M/Ts.
    Get the tires balanced, and see if that helps. After that look at your alignment, TREs, etc.

    There are NO worthwhile mods for fuel economy.
    Performance gains are not large enough to generate any significant power... Waste of money IMO.

    The edge trail jammer gains are disputable, with many people not seeing the same gains. But its $1000 for an air intake that will be more susceptible to sucking up water, and a bored stock throttle body with a larger plate... IIRC it does have a smoother flow to it, but it is only like 2-4mm larger than stock. So 1k dollars buys you a disputed 21hp... When people are swapping Dodge 5.2/5.9s and GM gen III/IV V-8s for a little over 2 grand... I know where I am going to spend my money when I want more power.

    Rustys stuff is mostly crap. Poor shocks, and springs that sag.

    Lift crap:
    First off, do not buy your lift from Quadratec/4wheel parts, etc. If your not already on Pirate 4x4 or Jeep forums, join. Go to the vendor area suspension section, and look for threads with vendors advertising the lifts you want on sale. These vendors are much cheaper than the Quadratec/4wheel parts, and will compete with each other.

    I have 4 x 2.25" pucks in a box I will give you for $20 bucks. You will need to buy longer shocks and adjust your bump stops.

    I would not recommend a budget boost just because you can buy some springs for not too much more. (when buying new) I bought a BB and ended up replacing the pucks/stock springs for OME springs because the stock springs sagged. Replacement springs can be had relatively cheap, and can possibly give you a better ride, will offer more travel, etc.

    Rubicon Express makes some decent kits for the money. Stay away from pro-comp, and other cheapos. Other recommended kits are BDS, OME, Currie, Clayton, and a couple of others.

    Anything over 3" will require a transfer-case drop or a 1" body lift and 1" motor mount lift, or a SYE and a drive shaft. Anything over 2.5" generally requires at least an adjustable rear track bar. A 1" body lift will also help you tuck your gas tank up higher, as well as your transfer-case.

    Most cheap lifts take short cuts when it comes to bushings, spring/shock quality etc. Stay away from control arms with poly bushings.

    Do you have a manual or an auto? Wrangler Xs came with the D35c, which will be fine on 31"s as long as your not an idiot.

    If your going to wheel it the first things I would say you should do is:

    Home made disconnects
    Rocker guards (fabricated, or purchased)
    Yes start by replacing TRE's and get it aligned to fix a problem with the Rear end.

    Don't wheel your dads jeep say thanks for the daily driver and go on down the road. We have already seen how bad you destroy the bronco at places with mud.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  12. #12
    Boost Junkie breckboarder55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stx4wheeler View Post
    Yes start by replacing TRE's and get it aligned to fix a problem with the Rear end.

    Don't wheel your dads jeep say thanks for the daily driver and go on down the road. We have already seen how bad you destroy the bronco at places with mud.
    In my ADDness I interpreted it as steering wheel shake...
    Last edited by breckboarder55; 06-24-2010 at 01:33 PM.
    SHUT UP AND WHEEL

  13. #13
    Sand Man Shaggy's Avatar
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    i have a 3" kit I dont need anymore
    Jonathan Tate
    361.676.6466
    2010 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 MegaCab
    2004 Jeep TJ
    1992 Jeep YJ
    2008 Jeep JKU
    2013 Ford Explorer Sport (mama's go fast car)

  14. #14
    ill be your pickup man
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    A good quality 3" kit w/ some 32s, maybe lock the rear, winch up front, follow that up later with some body protection, good to go.
    92 YJ
    04 F-150 4x4
    11 F-250 4x4

  15. #15
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stx4wheeler View Post
    Yes start by replacing TRE's and get it aligned to fix a problem with the Rear end.

    Don't wheel your dads jeep say thanks for the daily driver and go on down the road. We have already seen how bad you destroy the bronco at places with mud.
    It destroyed itself because it was tired of being beaten, we already discussed this.

    You're probably right, I'll probably just do the puck lift with new springs and sway bar disconnects.

    First thing is fixing the rear axle, it wobbled before and after the new tires so it's definitely not the tires.

    I found out at katemcy that wheeling conservatively is alot cheaper so that's what i'm going to try to do from now on. I'll only be wheeling it when the bronco is down, so hopefully not much.

    Its a manual
    Quote Originally Posted by Sharpe View Post
    F*ck off cj.

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