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Thread: CJ 5 Build

  1. #151
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    I'm taring everything down now to clean it up. Plus i have an unidentified problem with the clutch being stuck engaged.

    Right now I am weighing some options on how to proceed.

    I have been considering swapping the t-176 for an auto transmission for a while. My hope is that I could reduce the drivetrain length and still have some crawlability with an auto. I am just now starting to collect some measurements to see if its even possible.
    My thought process: swap in auto transmission (probably a TF999) and get red of my box 4 rocks doubler. hope to have shorter drive train for better rear drive shaft angle. I would like get the jeep to where I could drive it on the road again. The rear shaft angle is so bad right now, that you can't get over ~34-40 mph without feeling like it's about to rip itself apart.

    I love my current crawl ratio (it is somewhere around 100:1 and I'm only running 33" tires). I don't know if I would be happy with the gear after the swap.

    This is where i'm looking for opinions. Will the auto make a big enough difference for me to not miss my doubler?
    Also, what would be your recommendation for an auto tranny? I'm starting to look into TF999's and AW4's. I want to avoid expensive adapters.

  2. #152
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJAggie07 View Post
    Ha... it got much worse than the pictures show. After trying to get myself out for about an hour, I was waist deep in water sitting in the driver seat and the back of the tub was ~6" under water. I ended up leaving the jeep over night and getting it out the next day. 6 hours of winching dead weight since the clutch wouldn't disengage.

  3. #153
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Well this place has been dead lately so I figured I would add a little update.

    So far my only real carnage is the clutch.

    When I get the new one in, I can start reassembling everything.

    I did find one heim joint that needs to be replaced. The insert started working its way out.


    I haven't decided how I am going to reattach my lower crossmember (I cut it out to make removing everything easier). I just want to make sure it is strong since both lower links attach to it.

  4. #154
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Coming back together.

  5. #155
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    To do list:
    Put new u joints in drive shafts
    Install drive shafts
    Relocate breather lines on axles
    Fill axles with gear oil
    Replace rear brakes
    Replace starter solenoid
    Install rear shocks
    Install skid plate
    Install console
    Fix roller fair lead

  6. #156
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Finished up my console.

    I cut the shifter down 4". Now that it's all buttoned up, I wish I had went another 1-2" shorter, but it is better than it was.

  7. #157
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommy53002 View Post
    To do list:
    Fill axles with gear oil
    Bleed brakes
    Fix roller fair lead
    list is getting shorter...

  8. #158
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Picked up some LII slider boxes for the front of the jeep. My goal is to lower everything 4".
    Before.

    After. Lowered rear with stock TJ could.


    Still waiting for the slider boxes to come in so I can keep going on the front. I cut off the rear bumps to move them up. I need to figure out rear shock mounts to get up travel back.

  9. #159
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    I got all the brackets cut off the front and mocked up the slider boxes.


    The ride height, as it sits, is 2 1/2" too high.




    I'm trying to decide how to proceed.
    Option 1: French front hanger into frame.
    Option 2: Stretch the wheelbase enough that the front spring hanger can be mounted off the front bumper.
    Option 3: ditch the leaves and 3 link it.

    I'm leaning toward option 2. I'd like to have the extra wheelbase. It was ~96" before. Option 2 will involve moving the steering box up and forward.

    Thoughts?

  10. #160
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Option 1 and 2!

    How hard is it to relocate the steering box?
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  11. #161
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02 View Post
    Option 1 and 2!

    How hard is it to relocate the steering box?
    I'm not sure. It can't be too bad. Since I would be moving it up and forward (toward front of jeep), i will need to cut off the old leafspring outboard supports, probably have to cut out the stock crossmember, redo my winch mount/plate, might have to cut out some of the grill, and build new bumper that will act as a crossmember...

  12. #162
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    or go full hydro

  13. #163
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcolman View Post
    or go full hydro
    That is the long term plan... for now, I want it to be wheelable again.

  14. #164
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    What size heims are yall using for steering? 3/4"?

  15. #165
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    3/4 heims, also my misalignment spacer is a 3/4 hole, not the crap that fits in the heim and makes the bolt hole go down to 5/8's. 3/4 seems to be the standard, you could probably get by with less due to your tire size.

    Also just for information, my psc 2.5" full hydro ram came with 5/8's heims. So evidently psc thinks 5/8's is strong enought to push both wheels.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

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