I'd also make sure you weld on a tab to make it double sheer at the knuckles too, that will add a lot of strength.
I'd also make sure you weld on a tab to make it double sheer at the knuckles too, that will add a lot of strength.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
I'm going to look into making the arms double sheer, but I may not have space between the arm and the rim/tire.Originally Posted by Sparling
I think I may have run into a new problem anyways. I've been planning to use degree shims to correct my pinion angle. Since the front of the leaf springs are going to be higher than before (in relation to the back of the leaf spring), the pinion will be pointed down. So, when I add degree shims to correct the pinion angle, i'm pretty sure the steering arms are going to end up lower than the leaf springs. Meaning, the tie rod and drag link would likely end up trying to occupying the same space as the leaf springs.
I should know better once i get it all mocked up in it's new position.
more work but you may need to cut and turn the knuckles
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
Yeah, I did that when I did the spring over. I really don't want to do it again...
I put the largest degree shim I could buy in mine, I think 8 degree? Then I put a misalignment spacer between the helm and the highsteer arm and it clears. It lightly touches at full droop. My pinion is not perfect, but it points up.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
I'm fairly certain I'm going to have an issue. My old set up had the pinion set at 0* and I only had 1/8-1/4" clearance between the leafs and the tie rod. So, with my new set up, when I rotate the pinion to be back at 0*.. I think my tie rod will be lined up with the center of the leaf pack.
3 linking the front is starting to sound like a better solution every day...
but, i brought the plasma cutter home from work yesterday, and the new steering rod ends should come in this week. So, i'm going to get new brackets cut and try and mock things up.. Then I will really know what i'm dealing with.
Not much going on. I did get a battery box and heim joints from Ruff Stuff.
Got a couple hours in the garage this morning.
I cut out the new spring hanger brackets.
A plasma cutter sure is faster than my old angle grinders.
Got the bumper tacked onto place and tacked on the hangers for mock up.
This stretches the front 6 1/2".
I'm hoping to get a few hours in tomorrow so hopefully I can get the slider boxes tacked onto place so I can put weight back on the springs.
I got the front end mocked up with the weight on the front axle. Ride height is within 1/2" of what I was aiming for. Which is good enough for me. To get any lower, I would have to French the slider boxes up and I don't feel like 1/2" is worth all the extra work.
Ended up with 7" of stretch. New wheelbase is 101".
I pulled it all apart to bench weld the bumper.
Next up is remounting the steering gear box. I'm going to need to notch the frame for up travel. As is, I would only have 1-2". I'm shooting for closer to 4" up.
Got some more work done.
Next up is welding the slider boxes into place. Then on to steering.
Progress.
Boxed in the frame.
Got the sliders welded in and added bracing.
Got it sitting on the suspension now. Rolled a tire over to take a look.
I've moved on to steering now. I don't think it will be as hard as I originally thought. I think I can keep 3-4" up travel without notching the frame. I got the steering box mocked into position. I need to get some thick wall tubing to make bolt sleeves through the frame.
Looks good, you are doing stock low steer right?
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
I'm not 100% yet, but looks like I will move the tie rod back down onto the knuckle and keep the drag link on the high steer arm.
Looks like its gonna be really tight between the frame and leaf spring.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
Yeah, there isn't a whole lot of room there. i'm going to mock up the tie rod and drag link with PVC to check clearances. If i can get 3" of up travel on the passenger side, i'll be happy. I may have to notch the frame to get it...
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