The YJ

[cj nut]

So I guess I can start a build thread for the YJ. As most of you know it has
-SBC TBI fuel injection
-XJ reasprings, with a extra XJ main
-bastardized front sprigs
-Sm465/Dana 300
-14 bolt 4.88s welded/ dana 44 (yes I know it sucks but their cheap) 4.88s open
-semi worn out 42s on H1's
etc. yes Its just another YJ running basic chevy crap, but hey it works and I can afford it

Anyways so I have been redoing the suspension, I lowered the rear about 1.75" and moved the front axle forward roughly 3-4", dropped the front roughly 3". In the process of all this I also did a shackle reversal. Which leads me to my question. What is a good frame to ground height for a yj running 42's or 40's? Eventually I want to have 60 front and have decent tires, But I have to wait for the money to get right. The wheel base is roughly 109" If I remember right. I also plan on taking a 1" or 2" from the body lift off, I want to retain at least 1" to clear the motor and all. I have the motor stuffed pretty close to the body, So I would have to do some major body hackin' if I took all 3" off and the tires would barley clear. So what are yalls thoughts?

[colman]

put a cj grill on it.... real jeeps have round headlights

[MR.ZAP]

put a cj grill on it.... real jeeps have round headlights

This is a valid point...

[cj nut]

I will put my round headlights against both of yalls any day. Colman, you have no room to talk you havn't wheeled your jeep in over a year, It barely runs and is not drivable.

[robertf03]

will the cj grill keep the radiator from falling out?

[cj nut]

no but the new fancy radiator frame/mount I made will, I should never have a problem with that again....

[MR.ZAP]

I will put my round headlights against both of yalls any day. Colman, you have no room to talk you havn't wheeled your jeep in over a year, It barely runs and is not drivable.

You have square ones

[eight]

I would not worry about going through extra work to have the jeep extra low. With your axle and wheel setup the jeep is plenty stable, ground clearance is a good thing. It didn't look overly high at Clayton. Since you've dropped it 2-3" it should be good where it is. Of course remove as much of the body lift as possible. With that gone, it should have a pretty low and stable look.

Make sure you have enough driveshaft travel on the front, #1 mistake people make with shackle reversal. Now the axle moves the wrong way. A standard length slip will not be enough, so you have to shell out the big bucks or build a square shaft.

[85cj7]

I've read build ups with frame heights at 23-24" with 40"s but they were running linked suspensions and full hydro. Make sure that after you lowered it you now don't have clearance problems with the drag link/tie rod and frame on full compression (I do not know your steering, do you have high steer?). If you do you will have to notch the frame a bit. What do your steering angles look like with the front pushed forward that far? Are you running the stock box? I am pushing mine forward 1.5" and am going to have to move the box forward a corresponding distance, not sure if this is a problem on yj frames, but I have seen plenty of builds with people pushing them forward. Do you have hydro-assist?

[Sharpe]

You have square ones

Shh...he doesnt know the difference.

[eight]

I have my front pushed forward 3" and never moved the box. Only worked because of drag link high and tie rod down low.

[colman]

he is full hydro

[cj nut]

I'm full hydro, I just realized that length on the slip yoke will be a problem... I flexed it out one some old tires and a piece of c-channel, But I can say that idea didn't turn out as well as I had hoped. Leaving me with a 20ft piece of bent c-channel. I think if I shorten the slip yoke up more it should be "ok" I don't have much up travel so its a thought. guess that will come in the next few days.

[Busa]

My YJ has 1in springs 1in body lift 40s with about a 23in belly.

[cj nut]

Thats about wear my bumpers are now, but I think I may change my from spring mounts up a bit.