23 is at the frame skid plate area. I dont know what the bumpers area.
23 is at the frame skid plate area. I dont know what the bumpers area.
I amagine my belly would be lower the frame comes up to clear the axles, but I don't know if the rear frame comes as low as the belly does though. My bumpers are similar to yours so I'm probably close to what your jeep is.
The front of is very tight. At full compression I only have about a 1/4" between the ram and radiator. I have full hydro with a DE ram high using high steer arms. I added the bump stop so the ram would not touch the frame or radiator.
You will need a long travel drive shaft. I have about 2in of splines out at ride high but there is about 10in inside the shaft. When you are climbing something the front axle want to pull itself out from under the jeep. Austins has tried to make a stock driveshaft work and it always came apart. Flexing it on a ramp you will not see all the travel it needs. This is only on a shackle revers setup.
Here is a picture of mine flex. I will try to get some pictures tonight at ride height and full compressed.
How much up travel do you have? I'm running stock steering tie-rod, just sleeved with cromoly tube and my ram it behind it. It looks like my front will clear fine as of now, my bumb stops wont let my axle come up more than a couple inches.
also, kinda a crazy idea but.... has any one ever tried using parts from a tractor implement driveline to make a dshast? ie. brush hog
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
you can get the same parts that High Angle uses for a long travel driveline at napa but the splined shaft is almost $100 a foot
Originally Posted by afroman006Originally Posted by afroman006
belly does not equal bumper, what is your belly
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
Here's another option that people on PBB have been using for splined shaft:
http://www.grobinc.com/coldrolled/st...ne_shafts.htm#
I think Sharpe built a driveshaft using this stuff.
Here's the discussion:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=756706
BDR
I never got around to it. still rocking the square tube
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
I would imagine if you can find the 1.5" splined shaft it would be enough, bigger than the spline on most drive shafts. I know the one I twisted off at Clayton was less than 1.5", and it did run for a good amount of years. I would just use the square tube, no matter what you build will shake because it isn't exactly straight or balanced. You can get an 18" piece of receiver hitch tube at Harbor Freight, using this should take some rattle and vibration out, tighter fit than 2.5" x 2.5" x 3/16" tube.