35 Spline D60 Drive Flanges

[mark]

Here's the deal. I've got dibs on Davido's extra set of a D60/14 Bolt. And I really do like the Dave Performance Package using the axles full width with hummer wheels. But the front hubs will be problematic. So I am thinking of doing 35 spline drive flanges. I have some questions regarding this. Through my searching I've discovered that the conversion uses the flanges off a rear FF-D60. But I have not seen the actual list of parts. So the questions follow:

1. Does it use the stock front spindle or the rear spindle?
2. I know new stub shafts are needed, but I understand the slugs and flanges come from the rear 60. I am not terribly familiar with the FF D60. I assume that the axleshafts don't have integral flanges but are splined on both ends. Is this ture?
3. I am also assuming that the hub from the rear is used too. If true, does it use the same bearings and seals or do spindle differences require different parts.
4. Parts Needed: From Rear FF-D60: hubs, spindles?, bearings and seals?, flange, slug, nuts and lockwashers. Anything else?

Flem and Cajun, I know you guys are a weath of trivia in this area so chime in.

-Mark

[AgDieseler]

Easy problem to fix. All it takes is money.

1) Buy 35 spline D70 outers.
2) Use either Warn locking hubs (pn 38786 for pair, or pn 38787 for single hub) or drive flanges(can't find pn, but are for same application).

The Warn hubs are actually made for the 9" or D60 full float rear kit, but fit the front D60 axle perfectly. These hubs do have a lock screw on the dial and a positive blocker ring. The blocker ring and lock screw are mods specifically for the intended rear axle application. The blocker ring is easily removed, but it might be handy to keep an Allen wrench in the Heep for the lock screw.

There is no need to change the spindle, seals, or anything except the hub & stub.

Here is a photo of how to remove the blocker ring from the locking hub. Whenever I win the lotto, and build the super D60, I will use locking hubs. It is the easiest part to replace if it breaks.

[robertf03]

isn't the spindle part of the tube on a rear FF60?

I dont think you use any stock rear FF60 parts, maybe some warn parts but I thought there was a factory application for it and you just changed stub shafts and put in the flange where the lockout went.


Can't tell ya, but congrats on finally kicking the 30 to the curb

[mark]

I really don't care that they are 35 spline I am just looking for the type of setup that Ed has on his Rock Taxi .

The objective here is to remove some of the hub sticking out of the wheel without using spacers. Maybe he is using external lockout Dodge hubs with flanges. Hmmm...

-Mark

[Cajun]

The flanges that Ed is using look to be Dodge parts, judging by the "external" hub style. So, unless you swap in Dodge D60 hubs, those won't work for you. For DavidO's Chevy axles, you just need Spicer D70 35 spline stubs and some 35 spline drive flanges. Best I can tell, you can go with Spicer parts piece by piece (Spicer #620861), or get the Warn kit( Warn PN 39346). Price seems to be a wash. I'd probably drop the $200 on the Warns.

Here's a PBB thread, feed your brain:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...+drive+flanges

Also, I wouldn't plan on using 35 spline Warn premiums as my weak link. At $178.95 a pair, that can add up quickly.

[robertf03]

I asked Ed about this, and he says he originally used external flange Dodge full time style with 30 spline outers, then switched to 35 spline internal drive flanges from a chevy, then finally running 35 spline Warn hubs, PN 38826.

He says he now makes his own 35 spline dodge flanges using a 35 spline spider gear,