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Thread: 1988 Jeep comanche AKA the penny sniffer

  1. #181
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    Are 10" wide rims typical for 12.5" tires? 10" seems too wide (I run 8" rims).

  2. #182
    Registered User zebvance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommy53002 View Post
    Are 10" wide rims typical for 12.5" tires? 10" seems too wide (I run 8" rims).
    Summit says that tire can be run with up to a 11 inch rim. I didn't think it was a big difference to have a 8 inch instead of a 10 inch.
    1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers

  3. #183
    Come and Take it BroncoJo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zebvance View Post
    Summit says that tire can be run with up to a 11 inch rim. I didn't think it was a big difference to have a 8 inch instead of a 10 inch.

    Huge difference when you try to air down, I would send them back and go for some 8 inch wheels. I have 8 inch wheels on a 13.5 inch wide tire.

    Also just I feel like a front locker and rear limited slip would be a very "jeep" thing to do.
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  4. #184
    web wheeler FJAggie07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zebvance View Post
    Summit says that tire can be run with up to a 11 inch rim. I didn't think it was a big difference to have a 8 inch instead of a 10 inch.
    Quote Originally Posted by BroncoJo View Post
    Huge difference when you try to air down, I would send them back and go for some 8 inch wheels. I have 8 inch wheels on a 13.5 inch wide tire.
    Ding Ding Ding. I have a LOT of experience wheeling the 33"-35" daily driven rig. If you are going to air down for sand without beadlocks, I believe you NEED an 8" wide rim to keep that tire from popping off.

    Also I agree with the Rear locker and limited slip front. If you are concerned about the drive ability, use all your money on a select able locker in the rear and nothing in the front.

  5. #185
    Big Baller 85cj7's Avatar
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    I agree. I ran 15x8" steel waggy wheels on 35x12.5 MTRs for years and never blew a bead. I regularly aired down to 10psi in the rocks. I would think if you are spending the money then better go with the 8"s and not risk it.
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  6. #186
    Registered User zebvance's Avatar
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    Thanks for the news. I did not know That. I will be calling to change my order.
    1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers

  7. #187
    True Hollywood Stry
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    Yeah but for sand the 10" wheel would provide a larger foot print with less airing down which would be better for sand. If he isn't running trails or jumping the **** out of it on dunes then 10-15psi would be better in sand.

    To me 10" wide wheels on a 12.5 wide tire look a little goofy. Either way you will be fine.
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  8. #188
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Beadlocks don't have to be expensive. I have no experience with beadlocks besides messing with the wheels Evan and Tommy have but there are less expensive options out there. Summit has some for about what you paid for those.

    LINK

    You might be fine with those wheels if you keep them aired up pretty good but you would be limiting yourself if you ever wheel anywhere but the beach. I would either get 8" wide wheels or look into beadlocks. With a 10" wide wheel if you get any kind of sidewall flex you run the risk of pulling the bead off the rim. Trying to reseat a bead on a 10" wide sandy rim on the trail isn't fun to do. I put some 12.5 tires on 10" wide rims and I had to let them sit in the sun with some 2x4s stretching the tire out so they would even get close since I don't have a cheetah or any other fancy tire seating tools.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  9. #189
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Also, I looked up an alternator for your truck and it looks like a Chevy 6.0 alternator would bolt in place. Not sure on the wiring but it's something to look at. They have a factory 145 amp alternator that should hold up better than a small case alternator that's either rewound or has a smaller pulley. HO alternators tend to not last as long.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  10. #190
    Registered User zebvance's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help. I did call and get the wheels changed to 8 inch. As for the alternator goes it depends if its internally regulated or not. Thats what you have to look out for with the renix model 4.0.

    This is the one I have been looking at. These guys from what I have heard make top notch products. Also looking at ordering my starter from them.


    http://www.dbelectrical.com/c-12729-160-amp.aspx
    1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers

  11. #191
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    They're both internally regulated. All you should have to do is buy the alternator pigtail, and figure out what to do with the wires. I've swapped Ford 3g alternators onto a bunch of different things and it's really not hard at all to do.

    Rock Auto has Part #8292603N for 105 with no core charge.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  12. #192
    Registered User zebvance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparling View Post
    They're both internally regulated. All you should have to do is buy the alternator pigtail, and figure out what to do with the wires. I've swapped Ford 3g alternators onto a bunch of different things and it's really not hard at all to do.

    Rock Auto has Part #8292603N for 105 with no core charge.

    Thanks I'll have to look into that. I know I def want bigger than 105. 150 range I think will be great. I'll look into it all tomorrow. Working in this d30 right now. **** these stupid ball joint presses!
    1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers

  13. #193
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    That's a 145 amp alternator for $105 with no core charge.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  14. #194
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    For the record, I ran 38 swampers on stock Chevy 16.5 rims, I thin 7" wide. I had to stand on the tire while it was on the mounting machine to make the rim fit. Think with 0 psi it would not loose a bead, I never lost one, never put air in them, etc...

    I now have 42's and these great bead locks, trail ready and h1's. I put 20 psi in them, and some tires don't last a week... I have **** in the rims I know, but f' bead locks, I am not super impressed for a rig like the one in this thread the advantageous do not out weigh the pain.

    Additionally get an alternator over 100 amps, I understand you want the most you can get, but just get over 100 and you will be good and notice a giant difference. Prior to the 3G swap on the klogger I could not winch in idle without killing the engine. After I could do whatever I wanted.
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  15. #195
    Sand Man Shaggy's Avatar
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    Skinny rim + wide tire = better chance of staying on the bead. On a side note I still de-bead the inner bead on my tires that are 14.5" on a 9" rim with bead locks. Just don't air down too low and you will be fine. I hardly ever lost a bead with 35x12.50x15 on a 10" rim with my heavy bronco. Smaller tires are much less likely to loose a bead as well.
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