Originally Posted by robertf03
No, that's why they make screwdrivers
No, that's why they make screwdrivers
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
$750 for the whole set up
$300 for the alternator
$250 for two new batteries
$100 for smart isolator
$100 in wireing and misc terminals ect.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
Everybody's definition of the right way is diffrent I guess.
And there was nothing wrong with the ignition switch, the ignition key cylinder was busted.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
When I put my 160 amp alternator in I had to grind the bracket too. Supposedly a tj bracket does not need clearancing, but the bracket may not fit in the mj engine compartment.Small update, Got the new OEM mopar fan hub bearing bracket replaced and everything back together$($500.00 later from the stealership). Guess what? That wasn't the squealing bearing. Turns out it was the alternator the whole time. I'm kinda in a predicament because I wanted to upgrade to an aftermarket 160amp alternator, beef all the charge/ground wires to 4 gauge and run dual battery in the tool box to handle the load I have. Problem is it is going to roughly run $750.00. After buying the tires, rims, lockers and fan hub bearing I am tapped out as far as funds go right now.
So, turns out in the fully loaded mjs with ac, they came with a 100 amp alternator instead of a 60 amp alternator. Advance had this with a discount code for $70.00. So that is the fix for now. I put it in and see how it goes. Maybe the extra 40amps will be all I really need. If that's the case I will plan on still beefing the charge/ground wires and I still want a larger reserve so I will hook up dual batteries in the tool box in the future.
One small issue however. Was trying to put the direct bolt in alternator in last night and the casing is a tad bit larger. Well it is a hair too big to fit in the alternator bracket for some reason. While I was replacing it I also found that the PO had broke off the second bolt that holds the alternator on off in the alternator bracket. The plan is it pull the whole bracket off this afternoon after class and shave it down a bit for better filament and weld a bolt to the broken off bolt stud and pull it out.
If it's worth doing, its worth doing right....
BDR
You spent 500 dollars trying to fix the wrong bearing (what's the part number?) And get butthurt when someone calls you out for cutting corners on the ignition switch?
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
I must have missed the ignition switch thing. Do you use a screwdriver too?
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
*** nobody is getting butt hurt. The part number is 8953002902. The shaft had play in it so if that's not where the noise was coming from it was on its way out anyway.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
Put the new alternator in and realized the alternator bracket had a big crack in it. Cranked it up and it still has a squeal. After talking to Junior he suggested that if the rubber ring in the harmonic balancer was in bad shape it could be throwing the belt out of alignment and causing the squeal. I picked up a new harmonic balancer; new belt and I'm supposed to pick up a new alternator bracket today.
In the mean time while I was waiting on parts yesterday, I replaced my Trans Temp gauge because back light in it stopped working and wired up a small light above the switch panel so I could see them at night.
Also trouble shot a reverse light issue I was having. They were very erratic. First I noticed my dimmer switch had a short in it with a multimeter. So I replaced that. Then I started metering other things out and found I had a weak ground to the whole Dash panel and added a ground to it. The reverse lights are working well now but you have to drop it from park to drive to reverse to get them to come on. So now I'm thinking it is the Neutral Safety Switch. However the back light on my climate control is also not coming on except every blue moon. So when I get the time ill pull that out and see what's going on with that.
Anyway ready for this thing to be running right so I can get this lift on.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
I have never seen a Jeep want to be so ricer/fast in my life. That rocks.
Replaced the harmonic balancer and put a new belt on. Squeal Is gone. However it still will squeal when you put your foot into it hard. Dropping off my d30 to get geared and locked today hopefully after I pick up my deer meat from the processor. Im going to drive the truck to the coast one last time this weekend to drop off a item to a customer before the thing is ripped apart again.....
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
Belt tensioner
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Belt tensioner is a manual adjusting bracket.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
Shackles came in. Pretty beefy!
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
Dropped off the dana 30 Thursday to Bryan Drivetrain to get the 4.10s installed and the spartan locker put in. Hopefully I be picking it up in a couple days.
on another note, took the truck down to matagorda this weekend. Put about 400 miles on it total. Ran great. Still has a little churp coming from one of the pulleys until it warms up. Cant tell where it is coming from. Had to go down there to load up the truck bead full of drift wood for a order I have for my business. Also had to drop a order off to a customer. This is the last trip the truck will take before the long arms and 35's are on. If work and school permits I would like to get the old axle out and mock up the long arms before the end of spring break.
Here is a few pictures I snapped playing around on the jetties. The truck did pretty good for only having 2wd right now.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
Well finally got the axle back with the 4.10's in and the spartan installed. I got ripped off it cost me a arm and a leg and took for ever...... oh well nothing I can do about it. Its done now. Hopefully I can install ball joints this weekend.
To those who have set up gears befor, How does the pattern look?
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
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