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Thread: Klogger V3.0

  1. #16
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Pictures of cross members... Both cross members are made from 1.75" 0.120 HREW. The front one goes to the atlas adapter between the t-case and trans. Nothing to exciting, bushings on the end and bolted to the atlas adapter.

    The rear I got a touch creative, not Schubring creative, but still creative for me... The cross member hard mounts to the frame with a "pocket" set up, the frame pocket is 2.5" square tube cut at a 45 with a nut welded to the top. The cross member side is 2" square tube welded to the 1.75" HREW. I wanted it hardmounted so I could use it for my anti-wrap bar without the force from the anti-wrap bar carrying into the t-case. I bent drivers side so it goes down and then runs at the same angle as the Atlas T-case, and finally ends on the passeger side frame rail. The actual t-case bolts to a piece of 2x2x1/4 angle with a spring bushing. My theory is the first cross member will take most of the rotating load due to the bushings being further out. The bushing by the atlas will apply much less load and when the vehicle is sitting stationary it is just kind of hanging out. I put tabs on the back that are level with the ground for a bushing for the anti-wrap bar. Exhaust is going to be tight, but there is space.
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    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  2. #17
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    For the skid plate I bought a Barnes 4WD pre-made plate. Honestly for the price it was just a little more than if I had made it and it is probably nicer than what I would have made. The Skid is a 2" Drop plate, which is about 1.5" less drop than a stock YJ skid plate has and about 1" less than the Dana300 setup that the jeep had. It will not fully cover the trans, but I think I might just get a cast trans pan to protect this. I originally wanted to flat belly the jeep, but I ran into 2 problems. 1) In the pictures shown above the Jeep has a 1" Body Lift, the Atlas ia about 1/4" from touching on the drivers top side and similar in clearance on the Atlas shifters, so significant modification would need to be done to the floor. 2) If I went any higher with the t-case I would need to also lift the engine up about an 1.5", which means redoing motor mounts, etc... I think it will be fine with this belly and I'm happy with it.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  3. #18
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    do you think you will have any issues with the bushings being in different orientations? (perpendicular to drive train vs. parallel)

  4. #19
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    I mind Karl'ed that one, but if you google the TMR or Genright Atlas mount it is the same way, and it's on the internet, so it has to be ok....

    I think of it like this, some people do not run a support on the end of an atlas or a 205 (some people also crack transmissions in half). For every 1 degree the trans/t-case rotates the bushings on the trans cross member have to deflect about 12 times more than the one on the t-case. Additionally the because it is moving more and on a 1' lever it ends up applying a lot more of a moment back to the transmission. If the t-cas bushing was 1' away from the center line and oriented different I would be worried, but in my mind, all that bushing is really doing is hanging out and taking a little bit of force off of the trans adapter up and down, it's not really preventing rotation.

    If you do the google you can see several of these Atlas adapters that have cracked, Paul (From Crosby with green and grey YJ) cracked one. Each rig is different and it is hard to say if they crack because they are behind a 6000 hp motor or if when the builder made **** he had it out align. I figured a little support on the back had to help.

    However, stick around in 6 months you might see me ripping this out because I ripped the damn adapter in half...
    Last edited by KrazyKarl02; 07-31-2014 at 02:12 PM.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  5. #20
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Update photos. To fit my Dana 60 under this jeep, the leaf spring perches have to be moved 3" wider. I have a late 80's Ferd Dana 60 and the spring perches are wider than a 1979 Ferd or any of the Dodge/Chevy axles. Unfortunately the existing front bumper did not accomodate for this and the front frame was really a mess, so we cut it off. You can see here the cross tube that somone had hacked up and just the random f'd up-ness of the frame. In addition the front bumper was pretty thin, you could dent it very easily with a hammer, or in times past, an oak tree...
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    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  6. #21
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    I had some 2"X4" 0.250" wall tube, The stock frame ID is 2"X4.25", with this dimension we could cut the bottom part of the frame off and slide the new tube several inches into the old frame. I drilled a hole on each side of the old frame where I could also plug weld the piece in. Then we cut a front bumper wide enough for my 60's perches. I got the d-ring mounts from some olace online, they are 1" thick and go thru the entire bumper, so they are welded on the front and back (essentially you will have to rip the bumper off before these pull out, even with a side load because they are physically in the bumper). I picked the winch plate up from Barnes 4WD for $43, I have no idea how they can make and sell it for $43....
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    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  7. #22
    Chubby Bunny davido's Avatar
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    Klogger V3.0

    Lose money on every one, but make it up in volume.
    Last edited by davido; 09-19-2014 at 09:26 PM.
    The disco ball in my mouth, insinuates I'm ballin'

  8. #23
    lowballing someone
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    looks like a flame cut part and two bends.. about 2 bux per bend then maybe 25 in steel and table time..... if you make them in large quantity
    Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come

  9. #24
    sprayin' the house down CheapJeep's Avatar
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    Went by Karl's to drop off his new front springs and lend a hand.

    Took some pics...

    Note the use of hand drill and unibit next to drill press and full index of bits....









    1974 CJ5-The BarnBurner

    Quote Originally Posted by stx4wheeler View Post
    Robbie is the Charlie Daniels of the super swamper.

  10. #25
    ill be your pickup man
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    Looks good
    92 YJ
    04 F-150 4x4
    11 F-250 4x4

  11. #26
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
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    This thing done yet?

  12. #27
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02 View Post
    Earlier this week I picked up the newest version of the Klogger, Klogger Version 3.0. It's a bit of a change from previous renditions. I was tired of wheeling fool size and while I have never been a jeep fan, the fact is the bodies lend themselves to this hobby and there are a billion mods that are well documented. So here's the specs:

    1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ
    Engine - Chevy 350 with TBI injection, giant alternator, some sort of "welder" setup on alternator, Advance Adapters headers
    Transmission - SM465, Advance Adapters hydraulic clutch setup
    Transfer Case - Dana 300, twin sticked
    Front Axle - Dana 44 with 4.88 gears, full hydro steering, tractor supply ram
    Rear Axle - 14 Bolt, 4.88's, disc brakes
    Suspension: Front - Wagoneer Leafs, Rear - XJ Leafs
    Cage: Stock Jeep "Family Cage" with bars welded inbetween, plates to body, frame plates on the other side with spring bushings to isolate
    Tires: Bald 42" TSL on re-centered H1's
    Other info: 3" body lift, older racing seats, stock gas tank relocated to back seat, Afco radiator, electric fan, oh and it was Colemans, before that Cory'sAttachment 19416


    This will never work.

  13. #28
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graystroke View Post
    This will never work.
    Please explain you board lurking troll..

    Quote Originally Posted by tommy53002 View Post
    This thing done yet?
    Short answer no, lots of **** going on. Got the axles in, engine in, need to do plumbing and wiring.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  14. #29
    ^TAMOR NORTH^ Graystroke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02 View Post
    Please explain you board lurking troll..

    No explanation needed. See v1.0 and v2.0 for reference

  15. #30
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graystroke View Post
    No explanation needed. See v1.0 and v2.0 for reference
    How's that pile in your avatar doing? Are the tires dry rotted yet? Do they let you park that at the senior center you old bastard?
    Last edited by KrazyKarl02; 06-12-2015 at 07:11 AM.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

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