Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: 2001 Jeep TJ Build

  1. #1
    Registered User Jeeper2001's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    4

    2001 Jeep TJ Build

    I thought it was time for me to start a thread on the buildup of my jeep. I bought this jeep almost 2 years ago. I have done all of the modifications myself, with help from my dad. I have a lot of things on my to do list but the next mods will be an aussie locker, oil pan skid, Metalcloak Overline fenders. Here is some info on the jeep.

    • 4.0 Inline 6 engine
    • Manual Transmission
    • Dana 44 rear
    • Dana 30 front

    MODS:
    • 3.5 inch Rubicon Express Super Flex lift kit
    • 33x12.50 Cooper discover MTP Tires
    • Rear bumper
    • Rock sliders
    • Steering box skid

    I do have a couple of questions that I would appreciate getting some input on….

    1. My transmission has been very hard to shift ever since I bought the jeep. We have changed transmission fluid and it starts to shift great after I drive it for about 30 min to an hour.(150,000 miles on the jeep) Any ideas as to why or what is wrong?

    2. I am also playing with the idea of trying to get a NP 241 Transfer case from a Rubicon because I think my crawl ratio could use some improvements. I was thinking of changing the transfer case because on the road/daily driving I have 3.73 gearing. While this is fine for on road driving, I don’t want to want to re-gear to improve my crawl ratio. If there is a better or cheaper way to improve my crawl ratio I would love to know.







    Cole Peterson

    2001 Jeep Wrangler

  2. #2
    Come and Take it BroncoJo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    6,039
    Welcome Cole!

    1. Is your clutch disengaging all the way? if so probably syncros
    2. Lot's of people have opted to first lower the T-case gearing to improve crawling without affecting street driving, I say go for it.
    Born to Kill

    Quote Originally Posted by RCcola55 View Post
    I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!

  3. #3
    lowballing someone
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Houstonish
    Posts
    3,517
    did you use syncromesh transmission fluid. if you don't use that in 3550 and 4500 it will eat syncros
    Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come

  4. #4
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Corpus Christi
    Posts
    8,826
    Don't let Brian Colman drive your jeep into a mud pit.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  5. #5
    Registered User Jeeper2001's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    4
    I did change to the syncromesh transmission fluid, but that didn’t happen till the jeep was over 140,000 miles. So, I don’t know if it’s too late for the syncros. As for the transfer case, I think I will start to look around. What do you think my best and most cost effective choice is? The options I have found are a tj rubicon transfer case, a dana 300 transfer case with correct gearing(4:1) and a flip kit, or an atlas transfer case.
    Cole Peterson

    2001 Jeep Wrangler

  6. #6
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Krazy Krosby
    Posts
    4,169
    I would think the rubicon case would be the most cost effective if you can find a good deal on those. I personally hate the Dana 300 case, first you have to find one, then you will most likely have to rebuild it, plus cost of 4:1 gears, while you are at it you should upgrade the output shafts. By the time you are done you will be $1500 to $1700 into a Dana 300. Dana 300's shift like crap and leak. I've had 2, one stock and one with 4:1 and upgraded stuff. If you keep an eye on pirate and some of the other sites you can find a used atlas that is way better than a 300 for ~$2000
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  7. #7
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    709
    I would go with the NP 241. I've seen them sell for $1,000-$1,500. Like Karl said, you would have that much into building a D300, but the NP241 is a direct swap for you. The D300 would be stronger, but I don't consider strength a selling point when you are running 33's.

  8. #8
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Corpus Christi
    Posts
    8,826
    NP241 would be the most economical and easy to find. I wouldn't pay more than $200 for one though. Passenger side drops were used in 87-91 Chevy square bodies and drivers drop were used in 92-98 chevies. Slip yoke eliminators are around $700 last time I looked. The gears are plenty strong and the case will be fine as long as you don't smash it on a rock.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  9. #9
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by Sharpe View Post
    NP241 would be the most economical and easy to find. I wouldn't pay more than $200 for one though. Passenger side drops were used in 87-91 Chevy square bodies and drivers drop were used in 92-98 chevies. Slip yoke eliminators are around $700 last time I looked. The gears are plenty strong and the case will be fine as long as you don't smash it on a rock.
    To clarify, we are talking about an NP241OR (emphasis on the "OR" in that part number). The NP241OR is the rubicon transfercase that has 4:1 low range. It is a completely different case than a NP241 (not just different gears). If you can find them for $200, you should buy them all. They sell fast around $1,000 from what i've seen.

  10. #10
    Registered User tommy53002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    709
    Just to add, I believe the NP241OR comes factory with a CV flange so, a slip yoke eliminator is not needed. You would need a new rear CV drive shaft.

  11. #11
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Corpus Christi
    Posts
    8,826
    Neat.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  12. #12
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Corpus Christi
    Posts
    8,826
    Neat
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  13. #13
    Registered User Jeeper2001's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    4
    Update
    I got the Aussie locker in over Thanksgiving break, it makes a slight ratcheting sound on turns, but compared to the other sounds my jeep makes it is not noticeable. I am getting some spare u-joints this week and will get an oil pan skid if I can afford it, but other than that I think I am ready for Clayton.
    Cole Peterson

    2001 Jeep Wrangler

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •