CAGE design

[bigFAWKINranger]

quit selling/bidding on crappy axles in my cage thread damnit! we're losing focus here.. whats important is ME, and MY concerns. here is another angle on the cage,

[Doug Krebs]

allright so you have some gay ass grabber green design, now lets get back to selling that axle.

Stuart told me it's worth a lot more than $211. How about 411 and we'll make it a deal!

[robertf03]

Hey Adam, if you want a cage done by a shop, theres one at 635 and 35e that will do it. Baer Trax. Met the guy at the Saucer, so he can't be all that bad. Let me know if you want to head down there for an estimate and I'll try to pull the good old boy network "I met you at a bar" line.

I want to check out his shop, he's supposed to be a bad ass when it comes to OBD2 4.0 swaps.

[eight]

$225. The poor thing's been under a huge chevy all it's life, the tubes have to be fatigued, maybe even bent. Nearly nothing is origional, no good for restoration. It's 2" too wide. The tie rod is bent. The limited slip is probably about to stop limiting, plus people will make fun of me when it breaks loose. One ball joint is bad. It's been beat the hell out of. Rocks have taken bites out of it.



To get back to a Nix subject. There's a waggy in a little yard north of Navasota. Got 44 front with driver's drop, and AMC20HD rear. Not sure if that's wide enough for you. I think they're 61". Gears would be 2.73 or 3.31 I think. It's hiding in the back and looks to have been there a while. Didn't check a price cause I can't use it, but maybe if someone's going that way they can stop and check. You can get some 4.10 gear's/carrier for the 44 from Mike Knoller, I think he still has them. And maybe a toy rear with 4.10s from Chris Feller. Just some options.

Or would you be interested in splitting these J10s with me. http://www.tamor.org/forum/upload/sh...&threadid=1567 He says late 70s but it's possible one could be early 80s and has a driver's drop front. One might even have a dana 60-2 rear, thats 35 splines semi-float with 5 on 5.5. Take the axles, part out the rest, and come out about even. I think J10 axles are 65" wide.

[Ben97XJ]

BaerTrax is a nice place i met Russ ,the owner, briefly and looked around his shop. He a real god guy and he seems to be real good at what he does.
Here is the link
beartrax

[bigFAWKINranger]

FLEM, i know of russ... he does good work. i've seen everything from custom bumpers to his "buttface" diff guard. i would prefer to build the cage myself with the help of friends. its cheaper, more fun, and i can say i did it.
KRABS, its GRABBER GREEN so that it would stand out in the design. the real cage will be BLACK or ELECTRIC BLUE.
EIGHT, i need a rear axle that has the ford VSS... thats a MUST. and since i'm going that direction i would PREFER full width and 8 lug if possible.
lets see what happens when the check gets here....
ps- does anybody have any constructive criticism on my cage design???? SCOTT?

[redcagepatrol]

looks good to me. Just be sure to triangulate as much as possible and make good rocker panels that will protect the boby. Met Russ this weekend, watched him roll twice - his cage worked well.

other news, My front $50 D60 has 35 inners and 30 outers while the rear only has 30 splines with a shaft smaller than the Yota's

[BigRedFord04]

paint it grabber green you pansy! Yukon makes 4.88s for the 10.25 and its got a VSS

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by BigRedFord04
paint it grabber green you pansy! Yukon makes 4.88s for the 10.25 and its got a VSS

shut up or i won't let you ride shotgun when i wheel it. i've had my run with grabber green. the electric blue looked pretty sweet against that red truck.
damn you! give me a chance to get the check- then i'll figure out the axles.
haha- i LOVE collection agencies- if you don't pay your bills, the collection agencies get a crack at ya, and they will ALWAYS settle for like, 70% of what you owe!!!! they are gonna let me pay off my capital one card for $1800!!!!!! hahahahahahaahahaha.... i win again! i owe $2600!!!

[BigRedFord04]

LMAO!!! BADASS...thats only like $100 more than you paid for the tranny rebuild....no interest for like 2 years....hahahahahahaha....f*ck the system

[Krawler68]

yeah it's badass what it does to your credit rating too... wait until you try to get another truck. I have been there... I fought not to let them give me the discounted credit off.

Doug

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Krawler68
yeah it's badass what it does to your credit rating too... wait until you try to get another truck. I have been there... I fought not to let them give me the discounted credit off.

Doug

asssphinctersayswhat?
my credit is already ****ED... hahaha... and it amuses me. i will pay cash for my next truck anyway. my only expenses for the next 4 yrs will be food and ranger payment. i'll be able to pay for a decent USED tow rig within the year. all the while, working to REBUILD credit.

more cage criticsim.... thats why i started this... I WANT critique... this thing needs to be done right.
i found a flaw in my desing just a minute ago- there was no support between the bumper and the bar over the front wheel well... c'mon assbutts, help me out here.

[Krawler68]

I think you should ditch the doors and go with a design something like Hal's... his cage design proved itself pretty well this last weekend in katemcy.

It's a halo around the cab... simple spreaders running down to the rocker guards that are made of 3" and thick pipe... he has beat the poop outta these.... I'd personally use 2"x6" square tubing as rocker guards. I would gusset the hell out of each junction where the spreaders come up and meet the halo.


Then I would triangulate door bars and put some goofy looking fender protection/gusseting on the front bars running along your hoodline... that will reinforce that bar.

I also think cross brace behind the seats would be invaluable. something much easier if you ditch the doors. beside how long are you actually going to want those?


After you lose the doors I recommend you remove your windshield and install some lexan that you have bent with a heat gun and use self tapping screws to faten it all the way around.



Doug

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Krawler68
I think you should ditch the doors and go with a design something like Hal's... his cage design proved itself pretty well this last weekend in katemcy.
It's a halo around the cab... simple spreaders running down to the rocker guards that are made of 3" and thick pipe... he has beat the poop outta these.... I'd personally use 2"x6" square tubing as rocker guards. I would gusset the hell out of each junction where the spreaders come up and meet the halo.
Then I would triangulate door bars and put some goofy looking fender protection/gusseting on the front bars running along your hoodline... that will reinforce that bar.
I also think cross brace behind the seats would be invaluable. something much easier if you ditch the doors. beside how long are you actually going to want those?
After you lose the doors I recommend you remove your windshield and install some lexan that you have bent with a heat gun and use self tapping screws to faten it all the way around.
Doug

word on the 2x6... thats what my rear bumper is made of, and the front will be too. its good stuff.
my cage design isn't too dissimilar from Hal's but i wanna keep the doors... its still my daily driver.
i'm not sure about the lexan, it sounds pretty expensive.

[bigFAWKINranger]

another pic... sorry its black n white..